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Rudyj2
Trad climber
UT
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May 24, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
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A few in the Wasatch come to mind.
Triple Overhangs, 5.10a, 4 pitches, Lone Peak. I don't remember any fixed pins, but a few might exist.
Eleventh Hour, 5.8, 4 pitches, Sundial. No fixed gear and should remain that way. At least one person has suggested adding fixed belays.
Center Thumb, 5.9+, 5 pitches, Lone Peak. At the time of my ascent(97) I made a special notice in my guide book about the lack of fixed gear. It now appears to have at least one pin and one bolt at separate belay stations.
One from the Wind River Range.
North Arete, 5.6, 10-12 pitches, Ellingwood Pk. Encountered one old bolt/rivet on a 1500' climb. Unlikely it was original as the first ascent was done free solo.
And one more from Zion.
The Cowboy Ridge, 5.7, 7 pitches plus 1000' of 4th class, Mt Kinasava. No fixed gear!
No small coincidence that these are some of my favorite climbs.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 24, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
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Riley,
> Clint that is a gorgeous looking route- I've never heard of it... The second pic looks like the first pitch of "Igor Unchained."
It's just one corner to the right from that pitch, so yep, pretty close cousins.
Alex,
> Regular route on fairview. I don't remember any fixed pins from last time I was on it. Certainly no bolts.
It has a couple of unnecessary fixed pins - one above the crux on p1, and another above the roof
(above Crescent Ledge). There had been some bolts on ledges on p2 but fortunately they got cleaned up.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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May 24, 2008 - 04:25pm PT
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Cool.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 24, 2008 - 05:42pm PT
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Granite Mountain in Prescott has a number of fixed-pro virgins...
Magnolia Thunder Pussy (5.9), 4 pitches
Grody Coyote (5.7), 2 pitches
Slammer Jam via Reunion/Classic start (5.10-), 5 pitches
Said and Done (5.9+), three pitches
Debut (5.5), 2 pitches
Chameleon (5.8), 3 pitches
Chim-Chimney Direct (5.6), 3 pitches.
Falling Ross (5.10), 3 pitches
and on and on...
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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May 24, 2008 - 06:34pm PT
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Steelmonkey, what is the best way to get there from Prescott?
Thanks!
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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May 25, 2008 - 03:25am PT
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aLRIGHT.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 25, 2008 - 12:58pm PT
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Doc Rock - Granite Mountain is just outside of Prescott, on the northwest side of the town. Can't miss it. Can only climb there from July 15th, to the beginning of February, though, because of falcon ban.
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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May 25, 2008 - 01:05pm PT
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Chockstone Chimney, although a truly "old school" climb, has an old bolt at the first belay and one ooold pin on the last pitch. Possibly more that I don't remember.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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May 25, 2008 - 01:08pm PT
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Alright, thanks!
I tried to Google a sat pic as to determine access, but it looks pretty remote out there.
I guess you just pick a spot on a topo and motor on down a dirt road with a 4 WD?
Looks like a low traffic area, which is appealing.
Also, I pulled the driving directions for Idywild because they were all f*#ked up.
Had us going through Hemet, so I just put in a link to a map.
Oh, Cool. I have been by the Needles, and did not know it.
Why can not we access The Needles/Hermit from Johnsondale/Kernville area, instead of
driving all the way around Sequioa?
Anybody do it that way?
Anybody climb near Balch Camp?
Thanks!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 25, 2008 - 02:00pm PT
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Nutcracker was the first of its kind in the US, but during the 70s more of us jumped on that bandwagon and made first ascents hammerless. So plenty of routes went up originally without any fixed gear, barring the odd stuck piece.
The impressive thing is how (relatively) few remain in that state, and how we have to think hard for examples. Even among the routes mentioned on this thread, it might be a minority that are honestly without fixed gear today.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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May 25, 2008 - 02:08pm PT
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Is there another name for Fist o Cuffs in J Tree?
I am having a problem finding any links on the web for route info.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 25, 2008 - 03:44pm PT
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Lightning bolt Cracks on N. Sixshooter;...I believe there is no fixed stuff on it.....You have to set your own gear for the belays when I did it.....maybe it has since sprouted belay bolts.....I don't know;......It's a 5 star mega-classic, without the bolts, pins, or pooty.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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May 25, 2008 - 05:22pm PT
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Another pile, but fun little outing, is Rooster Rock in Valley of the Gods. 5.8 or so.
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Trippel40
Trad climber
CO
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May 25, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
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Don't forget the Mid Atlantic! Linville Gorge in North Carolina has plenty of 2-4 pitch routes with no fixed gear or anchors. Every route on Shortoff Mtn that is worth doing is free of metal, usually sandbagged and a stellar outing. I can think of only a few bolts on the whole cliff and those routes have never been on anyone's recommended list I know of.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 25, 2008 - 08:06pm PT
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coz,
> Has anyone thought of the Nut-Cracker, on manure pile? I meet Royal, while soloing the climb about fifteen years ago, he was 60 feet run out and I let go of the rock and offered a hand shake, he look down at his run out, pause and shook my hand.
> A cool moment, we climbed to the belay below the mantle, that now has two bolts, Royal said," look at those I didn't drill them." I asked what he wanted to do about them, he said he didn't mind, he just had done the route all clean on the first ascent with only stoppers and hexs.
Those belay bolts below the mantle pitch were removed a couple of years ago. So Nutcracker is back to little or no fixed gear now.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 25, 2008 - 08:09pm PT
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There's often (temporarily) fixed gear in Nutcracker on Sunday afternoons. At least if it wasn't raining. :-)
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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May 27, 2008 - 04:54am PT
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OK then.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 27, 2008 - 06:06am PT
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Doc, you're making a cool collection but it's going to need some editing -- some routes
were mentioned on this thread because they have lots of fixed gear. Epinephrine,
Solar Slab, and the Dike Route on Pywiak come to mind right away; I think
(unfortunately) a bunch of the others, ones that used to be clean, might not make the
no-fixed-gear grade today either. Fixed anchors have multiplied even where leads
have stayed clean.
Much easier to find 1-pitch routes than longer ones, of course. Right Baskerville
in Josh I could vouch for, as of last month.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 27, 2008 - 09:24am PT
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p.s. The Wasteland - Cochise Stronghold is a bit south of Utah... in southeastern Arizona.
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BKW
Mountain climber
Central Texas
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May 27, 2008 - 10:09am PT
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Isn't there a fixed pin on the Regular Route, Fairview Dome, pitch 7, just right of where you turn the roof? Also seem to remember another pin somewhere on the route???
Gearless Routes
Fishook Arete, Mt. Russell, Dont remember any fixed gear.
East Buttress, Whitney.
The Great Book, Mt. Whitney.
West Ridge, Mt. Conness, same.
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