Some quotes from Wayne Merry on the first ascent of The Nose

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mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Nov 29, 2018 - 05:55am PT
"It's now the sixtieth" kind of bump.

Congratulations to FOSSIL CLIMBER and to GEORGE WHITMORE!

Both "Older than gravel."
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Nov 29, 2018 - 06:28am PT
GREAT STORIES! I hadn't seen this before! Thanks, Chris, Wayne, Roger, Mouse!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Nov 29, 2018 - 05:36pm PT
WOW! Wonderful look into Days of Future Passed and the early El Cap era.

No topos, jumars, harnesses, cams, nuts, cell phones, porta ledges, bong bongs,SAR, sticky rubber, state-of-the-art rope, or mota, just a bunch of wild and crazy guys with some big balls.

Tough hombres!

Would be interesting for a team to repeat the route with all the original gear but that will never happen. I will supply the Kippers!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 29, 2018 - 07:08pm PT
No topos, jumars, harnesses, cams, nuts, cell phones, porta ledges, bong bongs,SAR, sticky rubber, state-of-the-art rope, or mota, just a bunch of wild and crazy guys with some big balls.

Ha. What a bunch of sh#t. I got Wayne drunk last night and the real story soon came out... Well into the second bottle of wine, the cell phones hidden in the backpacks came out. And, not long after, just before we got into the third bottle (okay, we weren't alone, Cindy was doing her share) the story of the topo Cesare Maestri gave them after his heretofore unreported free solo ascent (on the way to or from Patagonia, I forget which) came out as well.

And don't get me started on the "bong bongs" thing. They had a couple of bongs alright, but, believe me, they weren't for hammering into the rock!!!

I could go on, but you get the picture. Bunch of weenies groveling up some rock face on Maestri's coattails.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Nov 29, 2018 - 08:08pm PT
Dam if that doesn't sound like a good time. But I'll bet Maestri never ate Kippers!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 30, 2018 - 08:41am PT
And yet there was something distinctly fishy about the man and his exploits...
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
Nov 30, 2018 - 07:35pm PT
Here is Ghost, teaching Wayne the sorts of naughtiness that he refers to just above.
Many other of the usual suspects were present.

One February, Wayne and Cindy were passing through Vancouver, en route to somewhere warm. So Tricouni and I took them for dinner, then to the nearby social of a mountaineering club to which we belong. Anonymously. No one would believe it.
Messages 41 - 47 of total 47 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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