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Gunkie
climber
I don't get mad, I get stabby -- Fat Tony
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Jan 11, 2005 - 09:46pm PT
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Barbara Bein, 1st female free ascent of Foops (5.11) and probably the fifth overall in the Gunks, circa 1975. Foops is no 'slab' climb.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Scottsdale, AZ
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Jan 11, 2005 - 09:50pm PT
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Elaine Matthews from the Gunks also. Perhaps the first woman to climb El Cap?????
Curt
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 12, 2005 - 03:55am PT
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I was sorry to see that Melissa has decided to take her list off the web - it could still be of value. For example, it can answer some of the questions that people (Ted, Curt) have posed on this thread.
So I have resurrected it in a slightly modified form - a reduced number of climbs, in chronological order:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/women.htm
It includes a brief bibliography so people can find some of the good stories that are out there!
Ellie Hawkins is active as a climbing guide:
http://outside.away.com/outside/destinations/familyguide2002/weekenders_6.adp
Her solo on Half Dome was the Direct NW Face.
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Matt
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jan 12, 2005 - 04:02am PT
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i also know chelsea-
maybe not the equal of some of the old-mom names on this thread (in terms of accomplishments) but certainly a good climber.
we did new dimensions together and she put the 3rd & 4th pitches together, walking a single #1 cam for like 30' of what would have been the 4th pitch- stout and runout- you go girl!
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DIMITRIBARTON
climber
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Jan 12, 2005 - 11:11am PT
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Both Melissa and Clints lists' don't mention Sue Harrington. She soloed El Cap perhaps more than once and no doubt soloed wall routes no other woman had previously. Sue was a stud!!!!
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 12, 2005 - 11:50am PT
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Thats right Dimitri....I think the wall she soloed was Zodiac?
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DIMITRIBARTON
climber
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Jan 12, 2005 - 12:02pm PT
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Sue was quite a strong climber and went on to rescue/climber ranger work at Tetons. There was an article about the destruction of our public lands by our wacko leaders regarding oil and gas drilling around Utah, Outside mag? Sue has been very vocal about Bush and idiots f*ching-up our public lands. Bravoooo...Sue!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 12, 2005 - 05:27pm PT
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Anyone know Kim Walker? I climbed with her in Vedauwoo in the late seventies. She was leading 5.10 cracks (including OW) back then. She headed west around ~1980 or so. Some time around then she climbed with (and fought off advances from) Warren Harding. I think I heard she was with Alan Bard on the Eastside a couple decades back. Anyone know whatever happened to her?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jan 12, 2005 - 06:46pm PT
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Certainly another climber who deserves mention is Maria Cranor. Smart, determined and competent she first came to notice in the 1970s in So Cal for her no falls lead of all 3 pitches of Vahalla at Suicide Rock [1st female]. In Yosemite, she was [I believe] the 1st female (partnered by Dick Shockley) to climb the So. Face of Mt. Watkins (circa 1980).
From the mid 1970s through the 1980s she was one of a better female climbers in the country. Such climbers as Lynn Hill and Mari Gingery were both inspired by and her contemporaries. She later was one of the principal forces behind the formation of Black Diamond Equipment Company from the ashes of Chouinard Equipment, and can be credited with helping it become the successful company it is today.
A true Renaissance woman, after retiring from Black Diamond (and apparently climbing) she has pursued success in Academia.
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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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Jan 12, 2005 - 07:49pm PT
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DIMITRIBARTON & Werner -- yes, Sue soloed Zodiac for the 2nd female solo, I think '82 or '83.
Jay, yes I remember Kim Walker (you and I have many of the same roots). She was a pal of Dick Nicholas, who lived across the dorm hall from Mike Nicksich and me ('74). I think. It's hard to remember sometimes.
I don't know what ever became of Nick. He went to South Dakota after he got married then we fell out of touch.
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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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Jan 12, 2005 - 09:08pm PT
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Getting back on topic...
Is it generally known that Catherine Freer was invited on the women's Annapurna expedition, but declined? I can't say for a fact, but I think she felt that the caliber of the rest of the expedition wasn't high enough to be safe.
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DIMITRIBARTON
climber
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Jan 12, 2005 - 09:23pm PT
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Larry, didn't Sue H. also do the first solo of an El Cap route.... Horse Chute?
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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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Jan 12, 2005 - 09:36pm PT
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Dmitri,
That sort of rings a bell. Others above have said she might have soloed El Cap more than once. I've lost touch with her as well. Last I saw her she was drawing up plans to build a house in Wilson Wyo.
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Jonny D
Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
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Jan 15, 2005 - 12:27pm PT
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Are we talking only about american women here? What about Sylvia Vidal who soloed the Sheep Ranch, led the crux of Reticent and went on to pioneer some hardcore walls in Patagonia and elsewhere.
Reportedly, she's barely 5ft tall.
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Mimi
Social climber
Seattle
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Jan 16, 2005 - 02:48pm PT
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Let's not forget CO climbers Coral Bowman and Beth Bennett. Both were very prolific climbers and true hardwomen.
And no mention of the Pocket Russian? What gives? She partnered on Bad to the Bone not to mention a ton of hard Valley climbs?
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phillip mike revis
climber
snowbird, ut
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Jan 16, 2005 - 10:33pm PT
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maria crannor kicks ass!!
the queen victoria of alpinism
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 16, 2005 - 11:10pm PT
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Pocket Russian?
aka Short Spy?
Lydia P (slovenian) is alive anw well in Reno. After quiting climbing (for years) to undergo too many rotator cuff surgeries, she was seen pulling down hard in Rifle this summer.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jan 17, 2005 - 12:04am PT
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Kitty Calhoun - was cranking and suffering long before I started climbing. Will probably outlast me.
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Anne-Marie Rizzi
climber
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Jan 18, 2005 - 06:05pm PT
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Melissa:
You wonder about women who were climbing in Yosemite in the 70s. There were many more than are ever mentioned. The following list shows the ones I knew (and whose names I could remember) in Yosemite from 1970 to the mid-70s. It is in approximate chronological order, with their main climbing home area shown. Most of them initially or eventually climbed hard free routes, climbed walls, and/or climbed in all-women ascents. All of them were avid climbers.
Elaine Matthews (Vulgarian)
Bev Johnson (southern California, then Yosemite)
Margaret Young (Bay Area)
Judy Sterner (California, with Vulgarian ties)
Anne-Marie Rizzi (Yosemite)
Lora Hein (Yosemite)
Liza Andersen Paschall (Yosemite)
Gail Wilts (southern California)
Janet Wilts (southern California)
Sibylle Hechtel (Oregon, then various California)
Tina Hargis (Washington, then Yosemite)
Ellie Hawkins (Washington)
Diana Hunter (Colorado)
Barbara Bein Devine (Gunks)
Julie Brugger (Washington)
Catherine Frier (Washington)
Carla Firey (Washington)
Linda Halvorsen (Yosemite)
Anne Woessner (Yosemite)
Diane Russell (Colorado)
Barb Eastman (Colorado, then Yosemite)
Molly Higgins (Colorado)
Beth Bennett (Colorado)
Sue Giller (Colorado)
Coral Bowman (New Zealand)
KB (don't remember her full name)(Yosemite)
Catherine Culliname (Yosemite)
Mariah Cranor (southern California)
Anne-Marie Rizzi
I don't normally visit this website but an old climbing friend told me my name had shown up. This will probably be my only post.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jan 18, 2005 - 06:49pm PT
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I spent two spring climbing seasons (76 & 78) climbing in Yosemite with Washintonian climbers Julie Brugger and Carla Firey. They were leading hard 5.10 and 5.11 crack climbs and dragging me, kicking and screaming, up behind them. This was before Friends and SLCD's. It took a huge committment (something modern climbers have difficulty understanding) to launch out on a long, steep crack with a single rack of hexes and stoppers. If you pumped out you plummeted.
I also climbed with Bev Johnson. One day we did Stone Groove and
as we rapped off she noticed a little scrape on my left hand. She admonished me for using improper techinique and cutting myself on the climb. It had actually happened the day before on the Vendetta (a true hardman off-width, I can't believe we did that with just a couple of 4" tube chocks). She let me off the hook after hearing my excuse.
Cheers,
Bruce
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