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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 24, 2008 - 08:31pm PT
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But is Ken still protecting free climbs with (taped) hooks?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 24, 2008 - 09:07pm PT
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radair said:
" I wonder how many others have elbow and wrist problems these days..."
hahahaha!
I wonder how many don't!
I ran into Colin Lantz & Scott Franklin a few months back.
I mentioned something about "not many of us are cranking on our fingertips 5 days a week any more"
To which Colin replied "I don't know of many of us who are cranking on our tips at all!"
...Scott was silent, but I have seen him standing alone by the side of his car with a bouldering pad.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 25, 2008 - 08:45am PT
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I didn't get to meet Diana Hunter.
Oli/Tar, isn't there a great story of Coral cruising Wild Country after Henry Barber backed off? Significant ascent at that time especially under those circumstances.
Mimi, I think that Wide Country story belongs to Diana Hunter, too. It's written up (with a great full-page photo) on p.210-212 of Godfrey & Chelton's book Climb.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 25, 2008 - 11:25am PT
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Good call Chiloe!
Diana Hunter, from CLIMB!, on Wide Country:
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 25, 2008 - 02:11pm PT
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June 1975, Diana Hunter confidently leading the West Face of Bell Buttress, onsight.
A few days later, she was gone.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Feb 25, 2008 - 02:25pm PT
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With the mention of Beth Wald, it made me think, what about Greg Epperson? I think the exploits of the photographers is amazing, and they seldom got any credit despie getting way out there for those fantastic shots.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 25, 2008 - 03:14pm PT
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Chiloe,
was that on a monday?
Could it be?
Those might be the very shoes.
How sad.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 25, 2008 - 03:22pm PT
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Ron, I don't recall the day of week. She was with the same partner, though.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 25, 2008 - 03:24pm PT
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For some reason I recall selling the shoes on a sunday and finding out wednesday morning.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 25, 2008 - 03:34pm PT
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In the photo they look like new-ish EBs. Wendell Nuss, Tom Gries and I were doing another climb off the same ledge where we were all hanging out.
Diana seemed so cheerful that day.
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JuanGrande
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Feb 25, 2008 - 03:47pm PT
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I have been out of the loop for years and Supertopo is my only connection, love the trip down memory lane. The Ken Nichols update was hilarious. I never climbed much on the east coast but found his article in the 80s ("Tied off hooks") to be a classic piece of comedic writing. My little boy is 5 years old, we shall be hitting Suicide, Taquitz and Joshua Tree soon. No, I will not be teaching him about tied off hooks! Maybe I will start to climb again just for the social aspect of the game.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Feb 25, 2008 - 04:14pm PT
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The Barber story was Diana Hunter, but I have a great sequence of Coral floating up Wide Country. I'll find the slides and post them. She had a way about her.
Chiloe - when I moved to Seattle in 1982, I rented an apartment from Wendell Nuss. He was a geeky seeming, unassuming guy wearing clogs and in grad school in atmospheric science. Somehow climbing came up and after about five conversations over the next few months I started to think either he was completely making things up or he was a way better climber that you would guess looking at him. We finally took a trip out to Index and I learned that he was the real thing for sure. Went straight to Godzilla. He cruised the first steep 5.9 pitch, followed the second 10b, then as I was getting ready to rap off, he said might as well do this next crack. He led it (10d called Slow Children) with no hesitation. This was completely off the couch and any who have climbed there know that Index ratings are low by a couple of letter grades. He had not been climbing for two years.
He's down in Monterey now at the Naval Postgraduate School.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 25, 2008 - 05:10pm PT
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Mike -- that describes Wendell pretty well, he was (still is, I hope) the real thing on rock. Back in the mid-70s, I watched him lead an early ascent of Jules Verne.
It's not my story to tell, but he's done equally cool things off the rock since his Boulder days as well. Storm-chasing Nor'easters over the Gulf of Maine in a P3 to do science is one tale that's stayed in my mind.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Feb 25, 2008 - 06:14pm PT
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Tarbuster's R&I/Moffat interview reminds me of a Mountain #93 article from 1983 by Moffat:
"What we did in our holidays"
I specially liked the remark on the last page:
Bachar lent me his new Spanish rock boots... [he] wouldn't lend them to me before his successful ascent, even though I offered to buy him a meal (!)
Is there an untold anecdote that JB can spred some light on...?
(it got me to convert from illfitting EBs to painfull Fires).
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 25, 2008 - 06:32pm PT
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Hey Michael, don't give up on that rope. I should get to Umeå this summer, maybe via CPH.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Feb 25, 2008 - 06:38pm PT
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Hey Larry, give me a call if you do!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 25, 2008 - 10:04pm PT
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hey there piton ron, chiloe and tarbuster... and all... say, thanks for sharing those great and wonderful pics of diana hunter.... i dont know much about the gals that climbed, so now i am learning...
say there, piton ron.. say, that was a very sad tragic way to learn of someone's death... (a joined-in-heart climber of the world you all are to each other) ...
though, in retro-spec, perhaps you were meant to be there at that very time and place.... the shoe could have been gone,only seconds earlier, too, you know... (slipped into a box, or what-not).... perhaps, in some way it was a memento of yours to always have a special place in your heart for someone's good work on the rocks.....
god bless...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 26, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
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Jaybro,
> But is Ken still protecting free climbs with (taped) hooks?
Actually the hooks were not taped. Each hook was tensioned down to the ground with a separate rope. There was a separate belay rope for each hook, also.
I doubt Ken has led on hooks for awhile, because it was a pretty dangerous proposition, and the better protected/easier leads got done first, leaving only the really desperate ones....
Most hook leads were never repeated; probably not worth the risk in most peoples' view, if it's not a First Lead. Not a problem, since all of those climbs can be easily toproped. There were a couple of people besides him who did it. A couple of falls were even held by hooks.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 26, 2008 - 10:37pm PT
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hey there all... say, after learnng of the sad loss of diana hunter, i wondered what must have happened...
i did find this small note, in an interview... so for new folks like me, this may help....
also, it sounded like a very full interview, as there is more pages.... i do not know who the guy is that the interview is with---but naturally, you all will... here is the linkL
http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/patament/index8.html
say, you climbers, you are all special... so take care... :)
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Feb 27, 2008 - 11:37am PT
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Peter Croft--Zoomed onto the scene, then went off to 5.9 traverses.
Dean Potter--Crushed the scene, then an arch felled him.
Moffat--Burned off many in the US, put up hard problems and routes, then torched his tendons.
Patrick Edlinger--Pretty boy dominates, then disintegrates
Marty Garrison--All around bad-ass nobody who crushed (and happened to sell me my first pair of EB's, used and smelly)
NEW is that guy Alex...
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