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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2008 - 02:47am PT
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Russ,
HOLY SH#T!! I actually remember that!! Yeah, Reinhard and I were climbing and I think he got it cleanly. I went up the first part pretty fast and then got stiffed at the crux. I remember going up and then going down, going up and then going down, going up and then sliding down but NOT out. Somehow I hung on and made it to the top.
I still have the scar to prove it!
Thanks for the memory.
Jack
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2008 - 02:56am PT
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Yes, Scruffy B: I am the Jack Roberts who climbed with the E & J BUFF Mountaineers. There was David Black, Jimmy Black, the Jennings brothers, Michael Graber, Alan Bartlet, and David Canberry. We pretty much all hailed from Santa Monica, CA. We were friendly rivals with the Poway Mountaineers.......ace boulders on granite but couldn't even begin to TOUCH us on Stoney Point sandstone, which was all that mattered.........
Rick, that old picture of me is pretty cool but did I send the problem?
Jack
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 10, 2008 - 09:32am PT
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Hey, we want stories and pics from you Jack, not OPINIONS on how Poway Mountaineers did 37 years ago on those little LA sandstone boulders :)
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 10, 2008 - 12:36pm PT
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Grrrrrrrrrr!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 10, 2008 - 12:58pm PT
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Private Cool Head Sir, the Oracle,...a formidable adversary in the comic arts, indeed, were those Santa Monica boys. But we had Denny Adams, Dave Goeddel, the Big Duke, Bruce Adams (kind of a Ed McMahon type) and our secret weapon Kinley, aka Wimp.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Feb 10, 2008 - 03:43pm PT
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Here are a few more from the way-back machine,involving JR.
The North Face of Les Droites, a classic located in the Argentiere valley of Chamonix, as seen from the approach. 1977 was a very wet year and all the peaks held a lot of snow. The route that Jack and I did is just right of the left skyline.
Jack's shot of me retreating in a storm on our first attempt.
Another photo by Jack of me on our second, successful attempt.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 10, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
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double Grrrrrrr.
Rick (and Jack), that last shot really wants to make me barf!
Are you wearing a Whillans Harness? Is that a Jensen Pack? Is that a stinkin' neoprene crampon strap hanging off your left Salewa? Yeah, I know--everything was peachy cuz you had your Alpine Hammers and ClimbAXES!
Who were you guys?
B
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 10, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
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Ed McMahon was sorta special, if you think about it.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Feb 10, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
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Bruce,
More Johnny Carson than Ed McMahon, I would say. Like Johnny, a charmer of the ladies, including assorted nuns.
Yep. We had state of the art stuff then: Jenson Rivendell pack, Chouinard rigid crampons, (the kind that had an alarming tendency during that era to break), Chouinard ice hammers, and a Whillans harness. I had worn out my bamboo Chouinard ice ax pounding rock the previous summer, so I was using a new, Royal Robbins, all metal, orange model, as seen in this shot of me as Jack and I reached the Argentiere Hut. The Chouinard ice axes we used then also broke frequently. Later that summer, Tobin and I took to carrying an exra ice tool in the pack in the likely event of failure of a Chouinard ice tool.
Coming straight from the valley, Jack and I ignored the sign stating that camping outside the hut was strictly forbidden; we spent a peaceful night camped right outside the hut and saved the hut fee.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 11, 2008 - 08:16pm PT
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Wow Rick, that's quite a combo hero/scene-of-the-crime, shot. Another winner from Jack!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 11, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
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For example, you are perfectly color coordinated in the orange motiff! Who cares if your crampons shatter when you are on fire?!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 11, 2008 - 08:26pm PT
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Is that also an orange helmet?
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Feb 11, 2008 - 08:52pm PT
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Jack,
You and Black (Coolhead) went to do the DNB on a weekend from
Santa Barbara. Four of us drove up in my VW Squareback. Storm
hit during the night and we all slept in the car. However, Black
waited as long as possible before coming into the car, then he
kept us awake by shivering.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2008 - 02:22pm PT
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Scruffy,
I seem to recall that trip. There was another trip with Coolhead (now DR. David Black) when he and I drove up to Yosemite from Santa Monica in my yellow Austin Cooper. We were set on doing the second ascent of the Gobi Wall on Sentinel's north side so on friday night we left LA around 10pm. It was spring and as we entered the Valley I was in a hurry to get to the floor so we could catch a few shut-eyes in the Sentinel parking lot before heading up. Well, I took a corner too fast (about 55mph) and we slid on the road ice and crashed, screaming through some trees. We were unhurt but the undercarriage of the Austin was destroyed. We coasted down the hill and somehow made it into the parking lot. In the morning there was some discussion of what to do. Since the weather was bad with sporatic raining we decided against the Gobi Wall but opted for an early ascent of the Swan Slab Aid Traverse instead. That was rated A5 at the time and since it was my car that got crashed Dave let me lead. It went uneventfully.
After the climb we met Greg and Craig Jennings who had just gotten off of the South Face route on Washington's Column. We held a pow-wow and it was decided that in their 1963 Ford Econoline they would tow us back to Santa Monica where we all lived.
The best part was back then we all used Swami belts as a harness and since each belt was 20 feet of 1" webbing we figured that we'd just tie the webbing from the back bumper of the Econoline to the front of my car and that would work for the 300 mile journey home. Cool head and I sat in the Cooper while Craig and Greg took the front. I think the front of my car was just about 8 feet behind the van the entire way.....Dave of course was stoned and had this sh#t-eating grin on his face the entire way home. Greg Jennings was driving the van and he kept swerving on the Grapevine coming into the LA Basin. Probably on purpose.
The best part was that I got busted by my dad for going to the Valley. I had originally told him Dave and I were just going to hang out in Santa Barbara on the beach. He secretly took down the mileage so when I got home with a broken car and 700 miles on the odometer I had some serious explaining to do. The damage cost $500 to repair. I got grounded for life and the Austin was never the same again. Eventually I did do the second ascent of the Gobi Wall with Charlie Porter but as they say, that's ANOTHER story......Probably another good example why it's a good thing I'm not who I used to be........
Jack
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 20, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
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Bump
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