Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
bookworm
Social climber
Falls Church, VA
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
|
since the helmet debate has been broached, i'll throw some fuel...my understanding is that traditional climbing helmets are designed primarily to protect from falling debris; the internal suspension absorbs the impact; and the dome shape deflects the object (and absorbs impact); also, the helmet does, in fact provide fall protection
biking-style helmets, however, are designed primarily to protect in a fall so the helmet is designed to crumple or even split on impact, which absorbs the shock...question: what happens to the falling rock when it hits your helmet? the helmet splits to absorb the impact and the rock keeps going right into your skull
i'll take the dome
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 07:58pm PT
|
A thneed, a 10 cam anchor, and the Gary Busey Helmet Protector Protector.
|
|
dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 08:01pm PT
|
Doesn't everyone need a thneed?
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 08:03pm PT
|
Indeed.
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 08:03pm PT
|
To the guy who fell...I'm glad you're mostly OK. (Would be better if you were all the way OK!)
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 08:11pm PT
|
Here's and interesting quirk
On Jan 22, 2008, 01:06pm PST the "ANAM: looking for accident info for 2007" thread was started.
Two minuets later ......
On Jan 22, 2008, 01:08pm PST, Woody starts this thread "JT accident" of fallen climber.
|
|
TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 08:21pm PT
|
Werner are you suggesting...
WoodySt = coldrainsnow => troll?
:-)
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
|
couldn't be a troll, it's 2008 now. :)
no new bolts, lots of good advice at the crags. make friends, save a life.
that or run away really quickly so you don't see the carnage.
|
|
Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 08:36pm PT
|
Wow. Looking at the blowup picture, it looks like the "belayer" is clipped in with a daisy.
An acquaintance was injured due to the death belay. She was following a very experienced and very good climber. For some reason he belayed at the bolts. He knew better. She came off at the top and pendulummed hitting her head. She was brifly unconscious, fortunately she was wearing a helmet.
dirtineye trolled" I still hate Jtree though.
That's because you don't know it.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 08:40pm PT
|
anyone have a picture of someone belaying this route in the better location?
|
|
happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 09:16pm PT
|
^Why yes, I do, since you ask....
|
|
Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 09:41pm PT
|
I've added stacked layers of dense foam weatherstrip tape inside the helmet edge, especially in the back, where the impact focuses after a rope-behind-the-leg flip.
(How would I know that, you ask...)
I also dislike the newer helmets with an adjuster wheel in the back- right in that impact spot.
Last year at Jtree, I caught a fall like that that resulted in a cracked helmet.
Glad you're doin' OK. Gravity never sleeps.
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
|
happiegrrrl - nice pic, knott to mention the snappy comeback.
Elcapinyoazz wrote:
But "death belay"? Please. It's a clean slab below, worst case a tumbling skin grating 15' penji.
Gary wrote:
An acquaintance was injured due to the death belay. She was following a very experienced and very good climber. For some reason he belayed at the bolts. He knew better. She came off at the top and pendulummed hitting her head. She was briefly unconscious, fortunately she was wearing a helmet.
Elcapinyoazz - never underestimate the Toe Jam Death Belay's Swing of Doom™...
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 10:44pm PT
|
Yeah, and never underestimate the Hardman Knott, cyber-cop wannabe and Internet Superhero.
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 11:22pm PT
|
werner-
that was both funny, and knott so funny...
=)
|
|
Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 11:50pm PT
|
I am glad to hear you are recovering Snowrainiceandwindinyoursail. Yea Baby!
Helmets are both beneficial for the leader and the belayer. As I recall a climber died falling off of Toe Jam not too many years ago when he failed to wear a helmet and hit the bulge under the crack.
My friend Richard, standing at the base of Fairview Dome, had the belayer standing next to him hit by a falling carabiner. He was temporarily knocked out and required stitches. Helmets are equally important for both partners.
While belaying my daughter in Moab on a very easy slab, the man I was talking to yelled Rock! I jumped out of the way just in time. Even the easy climbs can be treacherous.
|
|
WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2008 - 02:33am PT
|
The reason I had the info so quickly was an email from Karen Briggs. Bill is with the SAR team and sits at home in JT with his radio on.
For those that know Bill but haven't seen him for awhile, he's doing quite well on his chemo. He hikes some and gets out with me now and then for a climb. They'll be returning to Santa Fe in a couple of weeks.
|
|
Big Kahuna
Ice climber
Hell Hardest climb I did was getting out of bed.
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2008 - 02:53am PT
|
I am glad you are still with us, wishing you a speedy recovery.
Lon Harter
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2008 - 08:45am PT
|
I believe you can also place a directional piece on Toe Jam if you insist on belaying from the bolts over there to the right. A #3 Camalot, as I recall.
|
|
GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2008 - 09:07am PT
|
First off - glad you're (mostly) okay!
Second, a question to the JTree crew:
I could be wrong, but I seem to remember my guidebook (Swain select, I think?) saying that the climb finishes here:
Do other guidebooks say otherwise? Do people just continue up the direct finish because of the inertia of following a single line? Is the grade the same (seemed significantly harder on the straight-up direct finish)?
I'm no JTree expert, but I've seen a lot of people looking sketchy at the top, and also at the transition into that upper crack. Both of which you avoid if you follow the right-hand crack.
GO
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!