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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Apr 12, 2009 - 11:35am PT
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Cool photos. I love the big machines as well!
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Any chance of doing a copy of the one on the left???
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you
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Groovy.
That shop gives me a chubby
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Dude, you're scarin' me.
Oh, look! a squirrel.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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I vote for RP copies too.
Much less likely to leverage out the rivet.
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T Moses
Trad climber
Paso Robles
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Honestly, it has been on my mind. Been really busy. You know: Tomahawks, Logan Hooks, Fragile Flake Hooks, D5 Hammer, second batch of Cam Hooks (micro, narrow, wide), current batch of Rivet Hangers, etc...
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2009 - 01:54am PT
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Huh? The RP style leverages the rivet out less than Holy Moses hanger?
The engineers I talked to said that the leverage would be a function of the distance the clip-in biner is from the wall when weighted, and that the closer the biner could be to the wall the better. Did I get something wrong there?
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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No, you got it right.
With the RP hangers, the biner hangs flat against the rock like a standard bolt hanger, but the other types make the biner hang at a 90 degree angle to the rock, increasing the leverage on the rivet.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 22, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
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bump for some cool stuff
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 22, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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I vote for RP copies too.
Much less likely to leverage out the rivet.
Me, too! I still maybe have one or two of the RP hangers left--precious! They don't try to pull the bolt out--important with old desert bolts that are still strong, shear-wise, but little pull-out integrity in soft rock.
The curved hanger design does not fit so well under some rusted nuts/washers when they are too tight to the rock--there's some extra space needed to accommodate the curve. This is worse if the washer is a large, fender-style washer.
But every replaceable hanger design has its issues...best is for the FA party to leave the damn hanger in place!
Fixe make a version like the old RP hanger:
http://int.barrabes.com/fixe-reusable-hanger/p-34080?idvariedad=135842
It's fatter gauge steel, confidence inspiring but also a bit harder to thread onto some bolt studs, over whatever nut or washer there may be..
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