I love the Pinnacles ...

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Dec 19, 2007 - 02:49pm PT

"The second bolt on Gary and Phyllis headwall used to be one of those 3/8" Rawl buttonheads, but it was replaced sometime around 2005 (maybe by Erik B?)."

Erik let me pop it and replace it. Brand new tuning forks care of Theron. woot!

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Dec 19, 2007 - 04:25pm PT

now back from lunch...

can someone clarify where Daedalus goes exactly?

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Dec 19, 2007 - 04:41pm PT

climbrunride,

> When did Upper Bandit's Bench get the name change? Was Gary and Phyllis Headwall the opriginal name?

Upper Bandit's Bench was just a name invented for Paul Gagner's guidebook, for a route that he did not know the history of. Larry Arthur knew who did the FA and told me a few years back - I even got an email from Phyllis (Garcia) about it.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Dec 19, 2007 - 04:42pm PT

Robert,

> can someone clarify where Daedalus goes exactly?

Get your guidebook and all will be clear. Why don't you have it yet? You are even slower than I am!

The first pitch is left of Drop Zone and starts by chimneying between a pine and the rock. Then up a faint streak past one bolt to a 2 bolt belay. Second pitch goes straight up past one bolt to the bolt ladder in the upper tier.

spyork

Social climber

A prison of my own creation

Dec 19, 2007 - 04:54pm PT

BTW - Brad, the new Pinns guidebook is very cool.

I bought mine at the vistor's bldg. last Saturday. Some other guy was buying one at the same time. There was only one left on the shelf after we both left!

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Dec 19, 2007 - 06:26pm PT

Oh I gotcha Clint. I was picturing that tier as a single pitch, but naturally the shorter ropes meant shorter pitches. So that middle tier has the 1st and 2nd pitch, and thus possibly the bolt anchor on Drop Zone conflicts with the path of the 2nd pitch of Daedalus.

If so, my apologies to Denny and Colliver. Strom and I inspected quite seriously for bolts off left of where we were before progressing up and there was no signs.

I think Daedalus should not be climbed using the tree. Maybe we can create a line in from the right so that tree doesn't get all chewed up.

I'd love to get a copy of the book. I am pretty slow to react. That's for sure.

mtnyoung

Trad climber

Twain Harte, California

Dec 19, 2007 - 07:32pm PT

Munge: I don't think you owe them an apology. It is clear that you didn't know of this route when you put in your anchor. Just like you, I for example originally thought the third pitch bolt ladder was the start of a route. When I climbed Drop Zone (your route closest to Daedalus) I was (barely) able to see the Daedalus bolts, but only because I knew where they were since I'd recently climbed Daedalus. The bolts are rusty and hard to see and there are dam few of them! they are effectively invisible. Your route and their route also converge as they get higher, so the first and second pitch Daedalus bolts are 30 feet or more left of yours. The routes only overlap (or close to it) at the end of your routes, near the start of the bolt ladder.

No apology in my opinion, but I raised the issue to add to your thought process about moving or not moving the anchor.

And I disagree with you about the tree! It's kind of a cool, if sappy start to the climb. And I don't think there are enough idiot fanatics out there who climb that kind of stuff that an occasional ascent will hurt the tree.

kev

climber

Dec 19, 2007 - 07:49pm PT

Munge, It feels considerably harder than Jumangi and the other 10a on flumes (Nipples and Nobs might be the name?), as well as harder than Even Coyotes Like it Doggie Style-yeah a left foot would have been helpful...

As far as the anchor issue goes with the other routes, it's not the runout so much because the climbing is very easy past the last bolt. The rock is just very loose even by pinnacles standards (in our opinions...we have climbed alot there but no where near as much as some of the people on this thread).

I need for friday to get here so I can go climb...arg....

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Dec 19, 2007 - 08:10pm PT

kev, yeah, i was originally going to put an extra bolt on Redline or Full Throttle up on the easy ground just to half the distance of the total runout to the anchor. But got out voted on it. It would suck to be up near the anchor and blow a foot, and pitch that distance to the last bolt even if it is easy ground.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Dec 19, 2007 - 08:28pm PT

I've done Flip-a-Coin Chimney; I'm sure Brad has done it also.

Not dying is good; the first goal of course.

Did you feel like you were flipping a coin about making it that day? I guess it came up in your favor. It can be a good thing to have a close call and survive to get some perspective; sometimes the second chance does not happen.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Jul 30, 2009 - 03:00am PT

I wonder if a certain some one has moved a certain anchor to modify a certain topo.

;)

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Jul 30, 2009 - 01:57pm PT

HA! I checked it out in the spring Munge, With my spotting scope! Now I could see what all of the hub was about. Looked Like moving your anchor (if it was yours I was looking at) needed to go down and right?

I would be way into the link up from ground to summit, If you guys need help, big crowbars, somebody with time on their hands, etc... I'm in!

Can't wait for the Pinns!
Mucci

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, Ca.

Jul 30, 2009 - 02:04pm PT

i really hate the Pinns, yet love Castle Rock, so I may be a puss...

It's just all that f*#king choss, man!

tolman_paul

Trad climber

Anchorage, AK

Jul 30, 2009 - 02:20pm PT

Blue, embrace the crud. When you look at the history of the pinns, and take more of an alpine approach, it can be quite enjoyable. I learned to enjoy the pinns when I ventured past the popular East side crags and hit the outlying formations, high peaks and the West side.

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Jul 30, 2009 - 02:29pm PT

Paul- that would be a great (what route is this) if you excluded a certain few Mudpeople!

Bluey you know you love it.

tolman_paul

Trad climber

Anchorage, AK

Jul 30, 2009 - 02:51pm PT

I'd have to look at the guide book, I think it was either the hand or the frog. It was over 20 years ago, I think that was my first attempt on a multi pitch route, and I bailed when there was just too much runout to the belay. Also the 100 degree temps didn't help with motivation.

Blue, if you haven't done Costanoan you're missing out.

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Jul 30, 2009 - 02:58pm PT

Paul- I have been to both area's, still can't place the route, Great climbing there!

Constanoan is a fantastic route, with a great summit.

Somebody will know what route that is...

Paging Munge, Mntyoung?

bhilden

Trad climber

Mountain View, CA

Jul 30, 2009 - 03:00pm PT

Paul,

looks like either the Frog or the Thumb. Pinnacles climbing requires a lot of finesse. Sometimes the biggest holds aren't the best. Luckily, Pinnacles climbing (at least on formations other then Discovery Wall and the Monolith) isn't for everyone and that is a good thing!

Bruce