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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Nov 14, 2007 - 10:41am PT
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I don't think there's any onus on climbers to help gymbies transition.
If someone wants to bring an indoorsy type under their wing as a potential partner, that's their prerogative; back in the day, did you guys feel any sort of obligation to help every as#@&%e you encountered? Or did you focus your energy on the ones who had potential as a decent partner?
On the other hand, I think that gym owners/climbing holds manufacturers/fashionista outdoors clothing companies, etc....could provide valuable service(while at the same time increasing their market presence) by education the indoorsy's about life in the real world(of climbing).
While I understand that a large percentage of gym climbers will never venture outside, it still might be valuable for them to have good information available. I used to go to the 59th Street gym(NYC) and every so often they had a local guide come in and teach escaping the belay technique and entry level self rescue. That was my first learning on ascending the rope.
Tangent.... Last week in Jtree I saw a girl fall off trying to pull the roof on Aftermath in the North Wonderland..... She wasn't prepared, obviously. Flailed away trying to swing close enough to the rock to...what?....do a pull up onto the roof she didn't pull? She had no prussiks, and after a while the leader tossed an end of rope he'd fixed, and told her to batman up. Then proceeded(in very short order) to get frustrated when he didn't get any slack in her line to haul in.
I am not saying those were gymbies on an outing, but I can tell you that anyone out there getting on routes they may not be able to send should know what their options are. One should be able to get out of what they get into, and that second did not have the skills. And, if a leader is taking out people that they know won't know how to get out of crisis, then they are as#@&%es for not knowing how to help their flailing seconds.
Why NOT take on the task of education, is my question to the wholesale markets/manufacturers who are starting these folks down the path????
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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Nov 14, 2007 - 11:03am PT
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Happie,
I agree with much of what you say, but as an INDIVIDUAL what can/are you (or me or the next person) doing...?
I guess I'm one of those that thinks I can't make a major impact directly on anything, but its worth my time and energy to make a little impact on what I can.
And my take on the original post was kind of along those lines...
You do bring up issues though that are worth thought.
I do believe there are plenty of great people that would benefit from many of us.
Cheers,
DD
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Nov 14, 2007 - 11:57am PT
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Every spring the SCMA holds their Novice Training Class. The class is built around teaching newbies, and gymbies, how to safely follow a multi-pitch gear protected climb. Old school techniques are taught: how to hip belay and rap with and w/o a belay device; knots; signals; how to reverse a rappel and ascend a rope over an overhang with prussiks; how to tie off a fallen climber and escape a belay; how to clean gear and anchors.
After finishing the course you'll not see any of these folks top-roping through slings. From every class a few new trad leaders emerge.
A bunch of old time, and not so old time, trad climbers volunteer 5 Saturdays every year in this effort.
The majority of the climbers on this forum are repulsed by the idea of a club. Largo has written several stories poking fun at the RCS, and deservedly so. But give the devil his due.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Nov 14, 2007 - 01:04pm PT
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We can try to teach all the nOObs or we can rid ourselves of the problem with this excellent bit of advice from Vertical Limit:
"Montgomery Wick: You did the right thing to cut the rope. Any good climber would have."
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survival
Big Wall climber
arlington, va
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2007 - 01:10pm PT
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Maybe deglamorizing somehow. No more hotties and Brad Pitt types hanging upside down in the best looking clothes!
Only greasy old grey beards with bleeding hands and frozen noses on the covers of these magz!!
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Nostrodomas
Trad climber
Visalia, Ca.
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Nov 14, 2007 - 08:40pm PT
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Watusi, yes Larry was the Dinubian, but is now a Visalian....lol
Survival, he still is a great guy and so very easy to hang out with.
You guys have any good stories from the so called way back machine? I need some good dirt for this week end. Message me if its to bad...lol
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survival
Big Wall climber
arlington, va
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2007 - 11:03pm PT
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Nostrodomas,
I believe I actually have zero dirt on the guy (very rare) He was always just super kind and cool with us. Tell him Birchell says hello from the Oregon bong team. Then ask him if he's still hitting on everyone elses girlfriends, and tell him I said it. HA! Then let him off the hook, cause I'm only blowing smoke. Can he still walk the slack?
B
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Nov 14, 2007 - 11:11pm PT
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Lucky Me:
........
I had the good fortune to run into Clark Jacobs at the local bar in Idyllwild. Since meeting, we have been bouldering and climbing in J.Tree and Idyllwild, watched lots of old climbing videos, and he's given me endless instruction on equipment... all for a few beers and meals.
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Nostrodomas
Trad climber
Visalia, Ca.
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Nov 14, 2007 - 11:52pm PT
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I will let him know you said hello. Oh and yes he is still Slacklining like a mad man. Not to mention bouldering twice a week, and hitting the valley on the week ends. He is on a mission....
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