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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Dec 16, 2008 - 05:08pm PT
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"Actually there are a few good spots to rest a foot in a handjam pod."
That's exactly what handjam pods are...
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Dec 16, 2008 - 05:10pm PT
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well I am over 50 and I never did edge of night. saw it a bunch early on but it always looked pretty desperate.
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That's Papajoto to you son!!!!!
Social climber
Oatmeal Arizona
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Dec 16, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
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From what I understand, Lunatic is the benchmark for 10c. Perhaps the others are just easy????????
PJ
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 16, 2008 - 08:14pm PT
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I resemble that remark, Scuffy. I was probably late twenties the first time and clearly have not climbed it in the last 2.5.
However, if following it counts, then you and I have enjoyed the hospitality of an individual (slightly) under the age of 50 who has done it, assuming following it wasn't death.
Also, did you do it Will?
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Dec 16, 2008 - 08:35pm PT
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That guy's only semi-human.
I'm kinda nervous of Will ,though.
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Captain...or Skully
Gym climber
Where are YOU from Holmes?
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Dec 16, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
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The Fringe is knott the hardest 10c you'll do, but maybe some of the best.
Pure quality there.
There are no numbers in the groove.........................
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
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Dec 19, 2008 - 11:15pm PT
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For those of you interested, a few weeks ago, we added 5 new pitches to "Lunatic Fringe", starting above "Beyond The Fringe". 7 pitches total. From the top of Beyond the fringe, step left 20' and climb the corner(mostly hands) for 160' to belay (2b). Step left and follow 4 bolts to 10c. crux, then gear 1/4" to 3/4", then 2 more bolts to belay(2b)165'. Climb knobs next to corner to roof(10b) past 2 pins and a bolt to another small roof (10 a/b), follow line to another bolt(5.9) and up to belay(2b)180'. Head up to flake and undercling/lieback up and left to alcove, crank up (10c/d) thin fingers to thin dihedral, 2 or 3 aid moves(pin) , traverse left 50' to belay(2b). Crank up jugs (11a), to steep slab(3 bolts) to top 60'. Rappel route(2-200' ropes). Good Luck ! 5.11a A1. pro-double cams 1/4" to 2" and one 3"- Eric Gabel
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Dec 20, 2008 - 12:07am PT
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"Also, did you do it Will?"
Followed an older aussie gent named Steve on it last year. He was close to 50, at least late 40s. He hung on the lead and I fell on the follow. Seemed pretty hideous.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Dec 20, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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You did Edge of Night, Sirloin? 'Cause there's two discusssions going on here, the Fringe is a walk, Edge of Night was a battle.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Dec 20, 2008 - 09:15pm PT
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Hey ablegable got a topo scanned?
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
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Dec 21, 2008 - 12:59am PT
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Hey Le Bruce, haven't drawn up a good topo yet. Leaving on a 2 week road trip in the morning. Will get on that when I get back. Will be in the Valley in about 3 weeks, on a new project. Look for my van at the Reeds pullout (blue w/ a white top, dodge van conversion). Should have topos by then if your interested. Leave a note if I'm not there or try getting ahold of Ed Hartouni, he knows how to track me down - Eric Gabel
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 21, 2008 - 01:28pm PT
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BITD, the Valley Standard for 5.10c was not the Fringe but Meatgrinder and Generator Crack (for crack), and East Buttress, Middle, and Stoner's Highway (for face).
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Dec 21, 2008 - 03:03pm PT
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I always thought generator was 10c because it was really a tr problem. There was a post a while back that said if you ran into it on a multi pitch climb it would be 5.11.....I disagree however I do think it is just as hard as any 10d ow I have done, maybe even harder than steppin out......All of course subjective.
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
X
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Dec 21, 2008 - 03:05pm PT
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If you were a dwarf with one arm it would be harder too...so...
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tinker b
climber
your local park
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Dec 21, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
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lunatic fringe, the hardest 10c???...i know it's a dead horse, but off the top of my head:
mental block,
the midget chimney on bridal veil east (although my friend with monster hands disagreed),
meat grinder.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 21, 2008 - 04:03pm PT
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which arm?
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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I used to think it was named for the song. But, seeing as how the song was from 1981, that's probably not the case :)
As to the difficulty, I dunno. Seemed neither easy nor hard for the grade.
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