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gumbyclimber
climber
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Viva Gorditas!
The ascentionist is BenWah. Magoo scored the 2nd, after that I believe it hasn't been done.
Lower Brother. Left of Hawkman's, a heinous, obvious feature and an instant classic; you can't miss it. It's truly a unique route complete with a pretty surly rack; maybe 3 #5 camalots. Approach pitch is a memorable munge fest; punch holes in the dirt and there are #3 Camalots back there, if I remember correctly.
Here's a few more images. You can see where some blocks clocked Ben in the face when he reached up and pulled them out.
Enjoy.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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ec,
I've got your new vertical20.com site linked on my Needles page - it's good stuff.
I've looked at that ow on HH dome from the bivvy ledge, but we paid attention to your beta on its difficulty and went for the left side "ow" instead. The left side is more like squeeze, and only for a few moves. I'm a poor swimmer in ow!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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My goof on the Obelisk shot- thanks. What a sweet photo! One of the best parts of Moving Over Stone II by the late StressMurray is the father and son Herbert segment. TM on Pratt's Crack and Tommy on the bolted blankness off to the right. Totally classic stuff!
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sweatyballs
Trad climber
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Me Epicing up the Crisco Way variation of Green Savior, Granite Mt. AZ.....
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Ben Wah is a hardman. Damn!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Went up and looked at Viva Gorditas a couple times this summer, once while climbing some lower bro base routes and once while cleaning the debris out of Maple Jam. If you're standing at the base of Maple Jam, just look up and a bit left, it's a very obvious feature starting about 250' up.
Those pics don't quite reveal how traversing/horizontal that rig is. Looks a little like a longer 1096 slanting the opposite way. And the bit about "mungey approach pitch" is an understatement. Think about 200' of dirt/moss/heather/stacked loose blocks and gravel on ledgey and low angle terrain. Never could convince anyone to try it with me. The one guy I got over there looked at it and went "no way dude, that thing looks filthy".
One question: Where does it end? After the wide bombayish flare feature ends is there a fixed station or does it turn onto the vertical face and go up to the ledges?
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ec
climber
ca
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Thx Clint,
Here's one shot looking down at the Rowell OW (pitch 5) on Hetch Hetchy Dome, YNP:
looks like I got a standing ovation...ha! ha!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Hope you OW lovers actually emailed Russ...
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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File this under ??? (11++++) still waiting for the send, gotta go garden soon.
LCC love...el maestro JA
2nd asc. style edit
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2007 - 07:12pm PT
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yeah.... this is all find and dandy, but if you are in this thread and have not emailed me, you are "bodjing a lamer" as we used to say.
you know who you are... send me an email, or if you already have, check your junk mail bins for my replies..... hurry... the window is closing.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jaws, 5.9'd' OW, Parker Bluff, Kern River Canyon.
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Mimi
climber
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This will keep you boys up at night. From the Rock & Ice calendar, 2002, Australian Simon Carter.
John Varco submits himself to a thrashing on his way up the extremely awkward and strenuous overhanging off-width crack, aptly named Belly Full of Bad Berries (5.13a/b or Aussie grade 28). Large cams are essential for tackling this unrelenting test-piece which is to be found at Indian Creek, Utah, USA-should you wish to subject yourself to the same.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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hey Mimi, I can make 5.9 OW look like that too.... only the angle is lower so the camera has to tilt a bit more... and I'm not as skinny...
Russ, rough week at work... hoping to get you something before the wormhole turns... really... not going out this weekend (most likely).
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Mimi
climber
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Ed, hook up the Wi and the neural painsuit and I bet you bleed out before you get to the chains. You really have to look at the photo to see how crazy steep it is.
Too bad you can't make the JTSF.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mimi, been there, done that, it only requires two big cams (bd 4.5 & 5 or equivalent) not to mention a relatively youthful 48 yr old body, sigh.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jay told me that the stem move was "off," you can only use the crack... but it's been half a decade since I was 48... (that's my story and I'm sticking to it - TIMSAIASTI)
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I almost edited to mention the stem thing. but thought it would seem ... stretchy(?)
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Mimi
climber
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Wow, Jaybro, good on ya! Where's the 13a/b?
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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"Mimi, been there, done that, it only requires two big cams (bd 4.5 & 5 or equivalent) not to mention a relatively youthful 48 yr old body, sigh."
Jaybro, BD 4.5 and 5 cams ARE NOT "big cams."
Brutus
PS Russ, just saw this thread, e-mail sent.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Brutus-true, no big cams needed
Mimi, where it gets too wide for fists.
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