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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Oct 29, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
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Nice shot of Yabo there, looks as though he just ate the Bird.
Here is a link to Largo’s “Three little Fish”
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 30, 2007 - 01:57am PT
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when I think of the Stonemasters I think Suicide Rock... here is a list of FAs and FFAs by known date... I don't know all these characters, but it might just be the death of enough brain cells that I don't remember...
from Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks AAC Climber's Guide edited by C. Wilts 6th Edition ©1979
Suicide Rock
Jackal 5.9, FA November 1971; M. Kaeser, Phil Warrender, J. Lonnie, T. Emerson
Free Lance 5.10, FA November 1971; John Long, B. Pottorff
Mikey Mantel 5.8, FA April 1972; J. Wilson, Phil Warrender
The Ultimatum 5.10, FA April 1972; John Long, Gib Lewis
Godzilla's Return 5.10+, FA April 1972; John Long, H. Aprin
Blown Out 5.10+, FA May 1972; Greg Bender, Phil Warrender
The Fiend 5.9, FA June 1972; J. Wilson, Phil Warrender
Drowned Out 5.9, FA September 1972; J. Knutson, Phil Warrender
Flower of Higher Rank 5.9, FA October 1972; Robs Muir, Mike Graham
Insomnia 5.11, FFA 1972; Jim Erickson
Arpa Carpa 5.9, FA May 1973; Phil Warrender, J. Wilson, Tobin Sorenson, P. Cowan
Forrest Lawn A2, FA May 1973; Phil Warrender, J. Wilson, Tobin Sorenson
Ten Karat Gold 5.10, FA June 1973; John Long, Richard Harrison, Rick Accomazzo, Don Watson
New Generation 5.11, FA July 1973; Mike Graham, Tobin Sorenson
Question of Balance 5.10+, FA July 1973; Tobin Sorenson, B. Antel
Jigsaw 5.9, FA July 1973; Tobin Sorenson, B. Antel, John Long, Robs Muir, Richard Harrison, B. Foster
Mantel of No Return 5.8, FA October 1973; J. Wilson, Gib Lewis, K. Cooper
The Drain Pipe 5.11, FFA 1973; John Long, Richard Harrison
Sensuous Corner 5.9, FA 1973; Gib Lewis, G. Labadie
Down and Out 5.10, FA March 1974; Gib Lewis, J. Wilson
Wild Gazongas 5.10, FA July 1975; Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison, John Long
Zucchinis from Alpha Centauri 5.10, FA July 1975; J. Wilson, P. Wilkening, R. Shockley
Hesitation Direct 5.11, FA 1975; John Long, Eric Eriksson
Flakes of Wrath 5.10+, FA 1975; John Bachar, Gib Lewis, Wilson, John Long, Eriksson, Tobin Sorenson
Quiet Desperation 5.11, FA March 1976; Gib Lewis, Rick Accomazzo, J. Wilson
Small Affair 5.9, FA 1977; John Long, W. Antel,
The Man Who Fell To Earth 5.10+, FA 1978; Eric Eriksson, T. Powell
Pink Royd 5.10+, FA ?; Eric Eriksson, John Long
Superfly 5.8, FA ?; W. Antel, Mike Graham, Tobin Sorenson, Rick Accomazzo
Double Exposure 5.11, FA ?; Tobin Sorenson, Gib Lewis, K. Casper
Low Pressure 5.10, FA ?; Tobin Sorenson, Gib Lewis
Season's End 5.11, FA ?; Tobin Sorenson, Mike Graham
Dilema A3, FA ?; John Long, J. Wilson
Razor's Edge 5.8, FA ?; J. Wilson, Tobin Sorenson, John Long
Obscured by Clouds 5.10, FA ?; Mike Graham, Tobin Sorenson, Gib Lewis
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Oct 30, 2007 - 02:18am PT
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John/Bullwinkle,
Dave E and I have been discussing a suite of stories we might collaborate on hallmarking some our "younger" generation and adventures in the Stonemaster era.
Is there a submission deadline?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 30, 2007 - 02:28am PT
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some stuff from Climbing which might be worth a re-read
Rick Accomazzo "The Dru Couloir Direct" Climbing (48) 21
Tobin Sorenson, "Witlessly Bold, Heroically Dull" Climbing (58) 14
Tobin Sorenson, Obituary, Climbing (64) 8, 34
John Steiger, "Johnny Rock" Profile of John Bachar, Climbing (98) 30
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Oct 30, 2007 - 11:54am PT
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Ed, that’s Jim Erickson (from CO.) on Insomnia. He was definitely a Stonemaster
Glad I was there. That FFA was one of the best climbing efforts I’ve seen too date.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 30, 2007 - 02:44pm PT
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thanks Mike, I suspect that Wilts' FA and FFA attributions have a number of errors, so corrections are much appreciated!
Many of these routes were being done as I was learning, with the Sierra Club... in the view of the Rock Climbing section, the degree of difficulty was beyond anything that they really understood. I never went over "there" during that time, funny what you pick up by those who are learnin' ya.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 30, 2007 - 02:50pm PT
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That WAS funny, Mimi...
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john bald
climber
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Oct 30, 2007 - 03:35pm PT
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Hey John...thanks to Ed (posting Suicide fa's)I remembered Don Watson. Fun to think of all the good folks we climbed with back then....When asked where to pick up Don on my next trip to JT, Don said come by the park in Riverside..."you live in the park?"..."yea just look for the merry-go-round...I live under it."
cheers
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2007 - 07:33pm PT
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Now we're talking, boys. Ed, you're heaven-sent and John Bald I haven't seen you since we did the first free ascent of Butterfly crack in 1857. And Hash bros and Dave Evans, please pen those articles lickity split. Honestly, if I have them in two months I'd be mint. You guys were there in the thick of it and recollections from inside the very tripe, so to speak, are what we all want to hear.
JL
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Oct 30, 2007 - 10:40pm PT
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JL,
My vote goes for including the obituary for Yabo. Hands down one of your best pieces and one of the best pieces of climbing-writing around.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 31, 2007 - 02:52am PT
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I'll work on Joshua Tree and the Stonemasters... which of the guides has FA and FFA attributions (I only have Vogel's and it omits this info...)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 31, 2007 - 01:32pm PT
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All hail The Great Hartouni!
Thanks Ed, looks like you got a well deserved place in the acknowledgements Bro.
Maybe try the old orange John Wolfe guides for Josh FA attributions?
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Oct 31, 2007 - 02:59pm PT
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I have the full set of Mountain, AAJ, Ascent, et al. I'll dig through them this weekend and try and post some references. Also, as a friend/school chum/occasional partner of Yabo I will wrack my brain on printable stories.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Oct 31, 2007 - 03:23pm PT
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Ed, the purple cover Vogel guide (and accompanying supplement) were the last with FA and FFA stuff in them. I think the newest guides (of which only one volume is out so far) has the info back in there.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 31, 2007 - 03:47pm PT
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These might have some pics or anecdotes:
Kauk Profile (Climbing Mag No 97,p 31)
Bachar Profile (Climbing Mag No 98,p 30)
Just read a profile on Dale Bard last night, can't find it in the index though. It was in either R&I or Climbing, relatively recent (last 15 years or so), written by Crouch. Had a cool pic of his camp in the Buttermilks with a killer crack machine and some other historical photos. I can run down the specifics in the next day or two.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2007 - 04:51pm PT
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He wrote: "The reason you can't find much other stuff is because you wrote all that was ever written about them. The stomemasters proper were only Largo, Tobin, Graham, Accomazzo, Harrison and Robs Muir. Every one else came late to the party, even Baccher. Thats a pretty small bunch, maybe you can broaden your scope."
Dood, I never considered that small group to constitute the entire Stonemaster fraternity. My scope is broadened to include anyone active from (roughtly) '71-'76. Whoever was livin' the dream back then was a Stonemaster in my book.
JL
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Stonemasters in Yosemite 1971-1976
The Amoeba, Left Side 5.8 FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Larry Young
Aquarian Wall 5.9 A4 FA 1971 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz
Book of Job 5.10b FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Ben Read FFA 1971 Jim Donini Rik Rieder
Cartwheel 5.10a FA 1971 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
Catchy 5.10d FA 1971 Jim Pettigrew Jim Bridwell Mark Klemens
Chicken Pie 5.9 FA 1971 Jerry Coe Rick Sylvester
Chopper 5.10c FA 1971 Mead Hargis Rick Sylvester
Cream 5.11a FA 1971 Mark Klemens
Cristina 5.11b FA 1971 Mead Hargis Dave Davis FFA John Long
Drop-out 5.10a FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Larry Young
Electric Gully 5.7 FA 1971 Jerry Coe Rick Sylvester
Final Exam 5.10d FA 1971 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
Geek Towers, Right Side 5.10a A2 FA 1971 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
Heart Woute (Son of Heart) 5.10 A3+ FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Claude Wreford-Brown
Jam Session 5.10b FA 1971 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
Narrow Escape 5.10c FA 1971 Peter Haan Jim Bridwell Mark Klemens
The Nerf Test 5.8 FA 1971 Phil Gleason Rick Sylvester
New Diversions 5.10a FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Claude Wreford-Brown Jerry Coe
Outer Limits 5.10c FA 1971 Jim Bridwell Jim Orey
Pass or Fail 5.9 FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Gib Lewis
Peter Left 5.10c FA 1971 Mead Hargis Kim Schmitz
Public Sanitation 5.10 FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Roy Kligfield
Rycrisp 5.7 FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Jim Downs
Seedy Leads 5.11a FA 1971 Mark Chapman Rick Sylvester FFA 1988 Clint Cummins Dan Nguyen
The Shaft 5.10d FA 1971 Matt Donohoe George Meyers
Steppin' Out 5.10d FA 1971 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
The Syllable 5.8 FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Sibylle Hetchel
Terminator, Right 5.10d FA 1971 Bruce Brossman Mike Breidenbach
Tinkerbell, Right 5.9 FA 1971 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz
Traffic Jam 5.9 FA 1971 Paul Cowan
North Dome, West Face Route 5.8 FA 1962 Art Gran Steve Roper FFA 1972 Peter Barton Mark Chapman
Lost Brother, Northwest Face 5.7 A2 FA 1963 Al Macdonald Jeff Dozier Dave French Gary Westernof FFA 1972 Barry Bates Rik Rieder
10.96 5.10d FA 1972 Jim Bridwell John Long Mark Klemens
Anchors Away 5.11a FA 1972 Tim Harrison Mike Breidenbach
Bare Necessities 5.10a FA 1972 Mark Chapman Rik Rieder
Base Pinnacle 5.9 FA 1972 Mark Klemens Bruce Pollock
Basket Case 5.11b FA 1972 Jim Donini TM Herbert FFA 1972 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
Brush Off 5.9 FA 1972 Ed Barry Mark Chapman
Chain Reaction 5.10c FA 1972 Rik Rieder Mark Chapman Ed Barry Rab Carrington
Cramming 5.10d FA 1972 Steve Wunsch Matt Donohoe George Meyers Jim Donini Rab Carrington
Forbidden Pinnacle 5.10a FA 1972 Mark Klemens Bruce Pollock
General Hospital 5.11c FA 1972 Rik Rieder Phil Gleason Chris Wegener
Isoceles, Left 5.9 FA 1972 Linda Halverson Rick Sylvester
Katchup 5.10a FA 1972 John Long Tony Zeek
The Last Resort Pinnacle, Center 5.10a FA 1972 Barry Bates Rik Rieder
The Last Resort Pinnacle, Left Side 5.9 FA 1972 Rik Rieder Dale Bard
Leanie Meanie 5.11b FA 1972 Jim Donini Rab Carrington Mark Chapman
Lichen Nightmare 5.10a FA 1972 Rik Rieder John Long
Lost on Venus 5.7 FA 1972 Ed Barry Mark Chapman
A Mother's Lament 5.10c FA 1972 Rab Carrington Rik Rieder
Olga's Trick 5.10d FA 1972 Rik Rieder Brian Bennett Bob Ost
Paradise Lost 5.10a FA 1972 Ray Jardine Rik Rieder
Penelope's Problem 5.7 FA 1972 John Long Tony Zeek
Plumkin 5.10a FA 1972 Rik Rieder Doug Scott
Pulpit Pooper 5.10b FA 1972 Jim Orey Jack Roberts
La Escuela 5.11b FA 1962 Yvon Chouinard TM Herbert FFA 1973 Steve Wunsch Mark Chapman
The Good Book (Right Side of the Folly) 5.10d FA1968 Warren Harding Tom Fender FFA 1973 Dale Bard Jim Bridwell Kevin Worrall Ron Kauk
Bircheff-Williams 5.11b FA1969 Phil Bircheff Steve Williams FFA 1973 Kevin Worrall George Meyers
Central Pillar of Frenzy 5.10d FA 1973 Jim Bridwell Roger Breedlove Ed Barry John Long Billy Westbay Ron Fawcett
Comedy of Folly 5.9 A4 FA 1973 Rik Rieder
The Crucifix 5.12b FA 1973 Jim Bridwell Kevin Worall FFA 1985 Peter Croft
Desperate Straights 5.10a FA 1973 Rick Sylvester Mike Farrell
Eagle 5.10a FA 1973 Ron Kauk George Meyers
Finger Lickin' 5.10d FA 1973 Mark Chapman Kevin Worall
Freewheelin' 5.10b FA 1973 Kevin Worrall George Meyers Roger Breedlove
Fun Flake 5.9 FA 1973 Mark Chapman Kevin Worall
Hotline 5.12a FA 1973 Jim Bridwell Mark Chapman FFA 1975 Ron Kauk John Bachar
Jaw Bone 5.10a FA 1973 Mark Chapman Kevin Worrall
Knob Job 5.10b FA 1973 Kevin Worrall George Meyers
Monday Morning to Patio 5.10a FA 1973 Mark Chapman Ed Barry
Nurdle 5.8 FA 1973 Bob Ashworth George Meyers
Pandora's Box 5.10a FA 1973 Mark Chapman Kevin Worrall
Quicksilver 5.9 FA 1973 Kevin Worrall George Meyers Vern Clevenger
Seaside 5.10c FA 1973 Kevin Worrall Mike Breidenbach
Sherrie's Crack 5.10c FA 1973 Kevin Worrall George Meyers
Smoky Pillar 5.10b FA 1973 Jim Bridwell George Meyers Vern Clevenger Larry Bruce
Stoner's Highway 5.10c FA 1973 Kevin Fosburg John Long Ed Barry Peter Barton Vern Clevenger
Straight Error 5.10c FA 1973 Mark Chapman Jim Bridwell
Rixon's Pinnacle, South Face 5.11d FA 1948 Chuck Wilts Ellen Wilts FFA 1974 Tobin Sorenson John Bachar
The Fin 5.11c FA 1961 Les Wilson Glen Denny FFA 1974 John Long Jay WIlson
Slab Happy Pinnacle, Center 5.10d FA 1961 Royal Robbins Tom Frost Harry Daley FFA 1974 Vern Clevenger George Meyers Tom Carter
The Calf 5.11c FA 1963 Joe McKeown Jim Harper FFA 1974 John Long
Book of Revelations 5.11a FA 1965 Gordon Webster Chuck Ostin FFA 1974 Bob Finn Chris Falkenstein
Crack-a-Go-Go 5.11c FA 1967 Harvey Carter Pete Pederson FFA 1974 Pete Livesey Ron Fawcett
Anticipation 5.11b FA 1974 Mark Chapman John Donini
Black Primo 5.11b FA 1974 Kevin Worrall John Long George Meyers
Black Rose 5.11b FA 1974 Kevin Worrall John Long George Meyers
Eagle Feather 5.10c FA 1974 John Long Jim Bridwell Kevin Worrall
Eagle Roof A1 FA 1974 Dave Diegleman Bill Price Augie Klein
False Verde 5.9 FA 1974 Bob Finn Don Reid
Freestone (Geek Towers, Left Side) 5.11c FA 1974 Jim Bridwell Ron Kauk Dale Bard
Gang Bang 5.10a FA 1974 Paul Cowan Ray Jardine
Gillette 5.10 FA 1974 Pete Livesey Ron Fawcett
Greasy but Groovy 5.10d FA 1974 John Long Rick Accomazzo Richard Harrison
Hairline 5.11b FA 1974 Jim Bridwell Kevin Worrall Dale Bard George Meyers
The Hand Me Down 5.10a FA 1974 Mark Chapman Jim Donini
Hoppy's Favorite Direct 5.10a FA 1974 Mike Breidenbach Bruce Hawkins
Jungle Book 5.9+ FA 1974 Ron Kauk Jim Pettigrew
Ladyfingers 5.11a FA 1974 John Long Mike Graham
Little Wing 5.10d FA 1974 Mark Chapman Charlie Porter Bruce Pollock
The Mark of Art 5.10d FA 1974 Mark Chapman Art Higbee
Mouth to Perhaps 5.11b FA 1974 Rick Accomazzo Mike Breidenbach
Pee Pee Pillar 5.10a FA 1974 Peter Barton Eric Schoen George Meyers Bob Ashworth
Per-Spire-ation 5.10b FA 1974 Kevin Worrall Mark Chapman Matt Pollock Bruce Pollock
Picnic 5.10a FA 1974 Peter Barton Eric Schoen George Meyers
Plumb Line 5.10d FA 1974 Dale Bard Jim Bridwell Kevin Worrall
The Reception 5.10a FA 1974 Mike Breidenbach Mike Farrell
The Riddler 5.10a FA 1974 Bruce Pollock Matt Pollock Mark Chapman Charlie Porter
Rock Bottom 5.11d FA 1974 Kevin Worrall George Meyers FFA 1980 John Long
Shake, Rattle and Drop 5.10b FA 1974 Rick Sylvester Chris Hassig Alex Behr
Short but Thin 5.11b FA 1974 Tobin Sorenson John Bachar
Solo Crack 5.9 FA 1974 Don Reid
Trial by Fire 5.8 FA 1974 Chris Falkenstein Don Reid
The Tube 5.11a FA 1974 Jim Bridwell Kevin Worrall Dale Bard George Meyers
Ugly Duckling 5.10c FA 1974 Kevin Worrall George Meyers
Wild Turkey 5.10c FA 1974 Dale Bard Ron Kauk
Astroman 5.11c FA 1959 Warren Harding Glen Denny Chuck Pratt FFA 1975 John Bachar John Long Ron Kauk
The Cobra 5.11a FA 1966 Mark Powell Bob Kamps FFA 1975 Tobin Sorenson Tim Sorenson
Birds of a Feather 5.7 FA 1975 Kevin Worrall Jane Wituchki
Blind Faith 5.11d FA 1975 Dale Bard Ron Kauk
The Dove 5.8 FA 1975 Kevin Worrall Jane Witucki
Dynamo Hum 5.11d FA 1975 Tobin Sorenson John Long
Easy Wind 5.9 FA 1975 Kevin Worrall Billy Westbay
Electric Ladyland 5.10a A4 FA 1975 Gib Lewis Rick Accomazzo Richard Harrison
Euellogy 5.10a FA 1975 Bruce Hawkins Mike Breidenbach Bruce Brossman
Figment 5.8 FA 1975 Mike Breidenbach Bruce Hawkins
Flake Off FA 1975 Bruce Pollock Jim Bridwell Jim Pettigrew Mark Klemens
Free Blast 5.11b FA 1975 Jim Bridwell John Long Kevin Worrall Mike Graham John Bachar Ron Kauk
Grape Nuts 5.9 FA 1975 Mike Breidenbach Bruce Hawkins
Hardd 5.11b FA 1975 Henry Barber Ron Kauk Steve Wunsch
Inch and a Quarter Blues 5.11a FA 1975 Dale Bard Kevin Worrall
Jesu Joy 5.10c FA 1975 Ray Jardine Rick Sylvester
Kauk-ulator 5.11c FA 1975 Ron Kauk John Yablonsky
Keystone Corner 5.8 FA 1975 Don Reid Jay Fiske
Mother Earth 5.11c A4 FA 1975 George Meyers John Long Kevin Worrall Mark Chapman Ron Kauk
On the Edge 5.11b FA 1975 Dale Bard George Meyers
Orange Juice Avenue 5.10a FA 1975 Chris Falkenstein Don Reid
Orange Peel 5.11b FA 1975 George Meyers Bruce Hawkins
Pacific Ocean Wall 5.9 A3 FA 1975 Jim Bridwell Billy Westbay Jay Fiske Fred East
Pinky Paralysis 5.11c FA 1975 John Bachar Jim Bridwell
Preface 5.11b FA 1975 John Bachar Tobin Sorenson
Ramblin' Rose 5.10 FA 1975 Kevin Worrall Mark Chapman
Realm of the Lizard King 5.11c FA 1975 Kevin Worrall John Yablonski
Short but Thick 5.11a FA 1975 Kevin Worrall John Bachar Ed Barry
Side Kick 5.9 FA 1975 Chris Falkenstein Don Reid TM Herbert
Tail End 5.6 FA 1975 George Meyers
Tips 5.12a FA 1975 John Bachar Ron Kauk 1985 Jonny Woodward Ron Kauk
Windjammer 5.10c FA 1975 Mark Chapman Kevin Worrall
Brass Knuckles 5.11d FA 1976 Kevin Worrall Mark Chapman
Phantom Pinnacle, Left Side (Regular Route) 5.9 FA 1950 Bill Dunmire Joe Faint FFA 1976 Mike Graham Roger Breedlove Jim Bridwell
Half Dome, Regular Northwest Face 5.9 C1 FA 1957 Royal Robbins Jerry Gallwas Mike Sherrick FFA 1976 Jim Erickson Art Higbee
Chouinard-Herbert 5.11c FA 1962 Yvon Chouinard TM Herbert FFA 1976 John Long Pete Minks Eric Erickson
Breezin' 5.10a FA 1976 Mark Chapman Kevin Worall
Castaways 5.10c FA 1976 Mark Chapman Kevin Worall
Eagle's Way 5.8 A3 FA 1976 Mark Chapman Mike Graham Jim Orey
Gait of Power 5.11d FA 1976 Ron Kauk John Bachar
Jigsaw 5.11a FA 1976 Kevin Worrall George Meyers Mark Chapman
Knob Hill unnamed 5.9 FA 1976 Kevin Worrall George Meyers
Leisure Time 5.10b FA 1976 George Meyers Bob Ashworth Mike Breidenbach
Mirage 5.9 A4 FA 1976 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz Jim Pettigrew
The Mouse King 5.9 FA 1976 George Meyers
Overdrive 5.11a FA 1976 Dale Bard Ron Kauk Nic Taylor George Meyers
Shake and Bake 5.10a FA 1976 Rick Accomazzo Richard Harrison
Sky 5.11c FA 1976 Dale Bard Ron Kauk
Space Babble 5.11a FA 1976 Ron Kauk Kevin Worrall
Spooky Tooth 5.10a FA 1976 John Yablonski Fred East Richard Harrison
Starfire 5.10 FA 1976 Rick Accomazzo Richard Harrison
Taboo Treat 5.9 FA 1976 Don Reid Bob Bartlett
Windfall 5.11a FA 1976 Mark Chapman Kevin Worrall
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