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Ouch!
climber
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Oct 17, 2007 - 06:46pm PT
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Oct 17, 2007 - 06:50pm PT
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Who else will be so wonderful to help me research the book I am working on?
Thanks Mighty Hiker! Especially since things are going really well in the Bachar house.
AF
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nita
climber
chico ca
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Oct 17, 2007 - 06:54pm PT
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Yep, Three cheers for Sargent Anders!!! hip-hip hurray!!!
Hey Ouch, that's the dance I saw Anders doing at the Facelift.
tooo funny;-)
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Oct 17, 2007 - 09:03pm PT
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I've learned good things from reading your posts Anders, thanks
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 17, 2007 - 09:59pm PT
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I think you've been eating too many of those Squeemish moths.
(EDIT: and is the caption to that last photo, "I always play it safe around Crimpie."?)
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 17, 2007 - 10:38pm PT
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I believe the last remark is what's known as damning with faint praise. Oh well, can't please them all.
Moss is always on the menu in Squamish.
I could make an exception and dance with Crimpie, but she mightn't be amused.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Oct 17, 2007 - 10:40pm PT
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Missed out on the dancing, AND a hug!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 17, 2007 - 10:40pm PT
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But Anders is Boss!!!
(just not THE Boss)
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BadInfluence
Mountain climber
Dak side
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Oct 17, 2007 - 11:10pm PT
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Anders is great. Has pointed me in the right directions.
Thank you for all your help.
Cheers
john
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 18, 2007 - 01:50am PT
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If you turn to p. 56 of the current issue of climbing, you'll see a full-page pic of a Squamish crack line called "Seasoned in the Sun." I guess it's not cool for magazines to include the names of first ascentionists anymore, but just so you all know, it's Anders that dug it out and climbed it. And it is a fine pitch.
David
ps: and just so you all know something else, Squamish cracks aren't like cracks in the US southwest. Concensus on first ascents at Squamish (and other crags in that part of the world) is that it takes at least 100 person-hours per pitch. They're buried under vast growths of moss (mmmm delicious), and filled with dirt and roots. Putting up a multi-pitch line at Squamish makes big walling look like a fun vacation.
D
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 18, 2007 - 02:40am PT
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Oddly, it's the second time that Climbing has published a photo of that route. The first one, by Rich Wheater, is on their website at http://www.climbing.com/photo-video/gallery/wheaterbc/index10.html, although Rich's site is www.richwheater.com The recent photo isn't on the Climbing website yet.
At least they're publishing pictures of my routes...
Tongue in cheek, I sent Climbing the following note:
"Thank you very much for publishing a photo of "Seasoned in the Sun" at Squamish, in your new issue. Oddly, it is just 30 years since Dave Lane and I first did this modest climb, with help from Simon Tooley. It was named as a play on a sappy pop song that a then girlfriend liked, although many Squamish climbers of that era did gain much of their experience in sunny Yosemite.
The route is pleasant enough, though exposed to rockfall. It isn't very sustained, though - there are half a dozen no hands rests, and it's only about 70 degrees. [The caption claimed it was sustained, and made it look overhanging.]
Dave and I could be persuaded to re-enact our climb, if you wanted. A teeny bit of climbing history. We could also tell stories of the good old days, when p'terodactyls nested on the Chief, and the Little Smoke Bluffs were molten magma. Wouldn't that be fun?"
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Oct 18, 2007 - 10:12am PT
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I remember Dave Lane. Stayed at his place, I believe, in 1979 whilst climbing at Squamish. Great guy!
I gotta say, there are not too many Canadians that I have not liked. You'd think all that cold weather would make them dour...but no.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 18, 2007 - 10:20am PT
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the animation had me laughing, suggested sound track, "hey ho, let's go."
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 18, 2007 - 03:53pm PT
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A long time ago, possibly in a galaxy far far away, I wrote a guidebook to the Stawamus Chief. It's mentioned upthread. Ghost, who's posted once or twice, was in fact the person who did the layout and design of the thing, with his then wife. Probably would never have gotten published without his help. And he went on to do a great deal of climbing writing, editing and publishing.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 13, 2010 - 02:14am PT
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Thanks, Dean - looking forward to a good trip, though kind of hectic right now packing. I can sleep on the plane...
I haven't been to Norway in winter, so that'll be something new. I like snow and cold, and apparently will get it. It's a family trip. Some cousins came a few years ago for my father's surprise 75th birthday party, and now it's their 75th (twins). Hoping to get in a bit of skiing, and maybe a visit to Klatreverks, a gym there.
Maybe I'll post a TR from Norway if I get a chance - perhaps I'll invent a new avatar and descend upon the unsuspecting denizens of SuperTopo. Wonder if I could fool them for long?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 13, 2010 - 02:22am PT
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2nd the motion for a trip report upon return.
cheers, and have fun!
M
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 13, 2010 - 02:25am PT
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Posted on a prior thread but worth another look see...
Cheers and have a great trip!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 13, 2010 - 03:46am PT
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I bet we could see right through your dreams of hidden avatarhood in mere posts.
Happy trails, my friend, in the magic lands of your forefathers.
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