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jiimmy
Boulder climber
san diego
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Kudos to the goimans. What is this about some olympic time tinkering with Yujis record?? 15 seconds difference does not make two marathon runners tied, 15 seconds difference in the indy 500 does not make for a tie. Aint no tie, thats a record pure and simple(unless we obtain other information to the contrary)
sport routes are enough trouble for me. Probably could get my 50 year old frame up a couple in the same amount of time those kletterers did their record. Darn impressive.
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jiimmy
Boulder climber
san diego
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ok, no time tinkering with Yujis record, I get the message....seemed a bit UNreal
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jiimmy
Boulder climber
san diego
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ok, no time tinkering with Yujis record, I get the message....seemed a bit UNreal
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Matt
Trad climber
never ever pissing into the wind
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"The reason there is confusion about Hans and Yugis time is because they altered it a little bit in order to get the record. At the slideshow, Hans explained that they employed a sort of “Olympic Rule” which allowed them to deduct a set amount of time for each party they had to pass along the way. Their actual time was nowhere near 2:48.
I distinctly remember this because I laughed out loud, thinking he was making a joke. He looked at me, and kept talking. Oops! Apparently this little known fact was swept under the carpet shortly thereafter"
hey BCD-
did-ja notice how you were more than just a little bit full of sh#t right there?
and also, did-ja figure out yet that it was JUST A JOKE and not a claim of the record, and that YOU were too funking dense to figure that our for yourself, even with YEARS to (apparently) ponder it?
LOL@BCD
it would almost be funny, if it weren't so f*#king funny
and randy- people out there do talk some smack about the hubers when they are out there setting these records, maybe when you say "you never hear...", you are just not listening?
and btw- hans and croft were at 4:22 forever ago, before it was fashionable and all of that.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Where is the "official" starting line? and the official "finish" line?
Just wondering....
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randomtask
climber
North fork, CA
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According to climbing.com the finish line is the tree. I don't know where the start is. I think they started from the great roof with a time like this.
-JR
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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I don't care if it's 15 seconds plus or minus, until there are standardized stopping and starting points, observers, and it's well defined when to stop and start the clock (god help us) , 15 seconds is a tie on a big route like that. Pure and Simple. It's a giant stretch to call it a "Big Improvement" like HandJam does (would 5 seconds be a 'medium improvement?')
Still, it's huge that this time has company now and it's seems assured that the present record, beat or tied or whatever, isn't going to stand for long enough to be an issue for long.
congats to all
Peace
Karl
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Keep in mind that 15 seconds will differ depending on how fast you are going.
space-time continuum baby.
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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Hey Karl,
I guess I did say "big gain". Poor choice of words on my part. A gain, and a new record though?
Anyone know the pole vaulters name (he was undisputedly THE MAN for like a decade) who would only break his record by the narrowest margin, but he would repeatedly break his own "established" world record because it meant more cheese for him from Reebok or whoever? Instead of just breaking the old mark by a meter or something???
Not the case here, but what else is comparable to the "nose record" in climbing world? As time wears on and the "record time" consolidates itself won't 15 seconds feel like an hour of improvement at some point in time?
I hope my words don't downplay the amazing physical achievements by all participants we are bickering over. Not my trip at all. But this speedclimbing game has been played for long enough now to realize 15 seconds is not a tie.
Ask Hans if thats a tie!
My only point.
Have great days!
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Matt
Trad climber
never ever pissing into the wind
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karl-
i don't really disagree, but as they are timing it to the second, being faster by seconds is still being faster.
i have no doubt that the hubers will soon break it by minutes, and then hopefully next year or sometime soon, hans or someone else will be even faster.
why did timmy and dean drop out of the nose sweepstakes?
maybe it's not as fun if you are actually "allowed" to be climbing it?
=)
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wootles
climber
I've moved
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So if the tree is the finish what's the start?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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"So if the tree is the finish what's the start?"
The hazy 'rule' for timing is that you time whatever is typically done on a rope. So I'd guess, the clock starts when boot touches rock at the start of the 10d first pitch atop the 4th class pile.
Sorry for adding an extra couple of years to Hans' time. ;-) Nice to see you on the Supertaco, Jacquie.
I hope the Hubers have a safe go of things up there today.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Any word yet? If they started at 7, they should have topped out before 10.
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F'ueco
Boulder climber
San Jose, CA
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And who was that uber-fast party up there on Saturday?
We were on Moby Dick, and were watching some dude speed-jumaring the great roof pitch...
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Yaro
Trad climber
Philadelphia, PA
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I'm really getttin' sick and tired of all this German bashing.
Donny, are you German?
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Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal
Sport climber
The Great Indoors...
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Hey....wait a sec... Yaro wouldn't happen to be short for "Yaniro" now would it?
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Matt
Trad climber
never ever pissing into the wind
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last time i talked to hans i said "take it easy hans" as i left.
his reply: "no way man"
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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How the Nose is timed? This has been explained on Hans' page for years. On
http://speedclimb.com/yosemite/Elcap.htm#nose
down at the Nose line, click on the how it's timed... link - simple, right? Then you get:
http://speedclimb.com/yosemite/except.htm
which explains:
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The Nose route on El Capitan:
Start time when leaving large triangle ledge at base of pitch one as per 98 topo.
The topo shows that pitch one starts at the top of 200 plus feet of 3rd class or if you come from
the left side after having done 40 feet of 5.7 and 50 feet of 3rd class.
Stop time at anchors on slab just below two foot step onto slab and bushy "flats" that lead up to big tree.
These anchors are about 40 feet down from the big tree.
There are no bolts or anchors in between the tree and this "stop time anchor".
Justification: most "normal parties" ferry their loads to the ledge at the base of the first pitch
rather than outright roping up, so the The Climb starts here for most people.
"I've always heard of people starting their time here" - not a justification in my mind but it is true.
Most parties unrope at the top anchors described and shoulder their haul bags to carry to the tree 40 feet up,
thus they are finished with the climbing portion of the program.
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Implication - if Alex and Thomas are stopping their watch at the tree, they broke the record by more than 15 seconds.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Also, thanks Jacqueline for clearing up the rumor that BCD started and later recanted.
2:48.55 or .xx is a true elapsed time - I recall they even had a shot of the watch on a video.
And I remember the same joke from Hans' slideshow in 2005 at Stanford.
They were trying to beat Dean/Timmy's record and had come up just short.
But they knew they could beat the record next try if they could maintain the same pace and not have to pass so many parties....
As others have said, Hans is definitely a class act and a great competitor.
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