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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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The worst sunburn I ever got was at the "semi-hanging belay" on 10 Karat Gold. What a great climb, though!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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An interesting aside about the first ascent of 10 K was that we added an extra bolt on the first pitch (the 4th) after Richard led the thing believing no one would want to climb it if it had a fifty foot runout in the middle of lead 1 (on easy 5.9ish stuff). The idea to do the route came from climbing that corner to the right (Goliath??) with three people, and when the third followed the 2nd and last pitch, he moved out of the crack and climbed a ways up the "Windowpane," which we thought impossible in the old shoes. On the first ascent I remember leading the "Pane" in those old red PAs and being amazed my feet were sticking. That's an all time classic slab route. The first pitch - almost every move is 5.8 or 5.9. Tends to focus your mind wonderfully.
Somebody ought to bust out old Rebloting Development stories - from the pre-Fire era. That route was horrifying in the old shoes!
JL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Was you reblottoing on da Winderpain pitch big fella or in anticipation? But seriously, I always wondered about that route name.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Ten Karat is one of my favorites too.
About Duck Soup, this may be apocryphal, but I heard that Marty Woerner originally named the route Tyrannosaurus Rex. It might have been fearful when he first started working on it, but by the time it was finished the "new generation" had raised free climbing standards so much that it paled in comparison. The name invited disparaging remarks, like it was as easy as duck soup. It stuck.
It's still a cool route, especially the third pitch.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2007 - 02:34pm PT
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AP my oldest daughter loved climbing the most after High school so you may still get the opportunity. Peak bagging has the same gratification also.
John I actually thought there was a gold knifeblade under that small three foot arch instead of that bolt way off to the right. That’s a good story about Richard’s concern for future parties. Refreshing and to the character of the days.
Yes Rebolting stories let’s hear them!
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Double D
climber
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Dec 16, 2007 - 05:29pm PT
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Awesome writing Mike! It really shows the essence of your thoughtfulness and fathering abilities! You have been such an incredible influence to the climbing community for a very long time. There are several things that I have always been grateful to you for, and figured it’s about time to express my thanks.
First off, you saved the life of a dear friend, Rik Rieder. Rik was my first contact with the climbing community of Yosemite and always was motivating to hang out with. I later became good friends with his brother, Kurt, then slowly the rest of the Rieder clan. I know they will always be grateful for your amazing rescue on Pacific Ocean wall as well.
My second thanks come from when we were just groms. It was in the C4 parking lot just after you assisted in the Half Dome rescue of Billy and I…a very humbling experience to say the least. We were hanging at the cars and you were turning us on to some good Jazz piano tape, probably Keith Jarrett. In an older brother type of way, you came up and told us not to get bummed out about the experience…that it could have happened to anyone…to just chalk it up to experience and move on. You have no idea how much that meant to me.
Next you invented the tool that was most responsible, in my humble opinion, for pushing the limits of aid climbing. Most folks don’t realize this, but your portaledge revolutionized big wall climbing in a way that perhaps the younger generations wouldn’t understand. Prior to portaledges the accommodations on walls, sans ledges, were bat hammocks. I read a post by Werner that put the misery of these things in perspective. Your shoulders were being rolled together like a getting stuck in a vice. Even with spreader bars, at best you could only sleep for ½ hour at a time. After two or three nights of this, we were climbing in a perpetual, sleep-deprived haze. Portaledges changed the face of big wall climbing like sticky shoes did for free climbing. With a clear head from a good nights sleep, the realm of possibilities on walls flourished.
You always had a watchful eye out for your brothers on the walls. When Augie Klein, Max Jones and I topped out from an early ascent of Tangerine Trip in a freak May blizzard, you were the one keeping a watchful eye on us from the meadow with the SAR telescope. I also remember well when we were doing the 3rd ascent of PO, you were the one watching from the meadow as we fixed that same pitch that you had rescued Rik from years earlier (at least I think it was the same pitch). We were all under 20 at the time and this was a daunting undertaking. Everyone else was telling us that we weren’t ready and that we all had a death wish. You and Bridwell were the only ones encouraging us to go for it.
Finally I remember a short phone conversation we had when I had just had my son, yours was about three if I remember correctly. You were relaying the joys of fatherhood and how cool these guys were as they grow up to become your little buddies. I think you were the first guy I ever heard talk with enthusiasm about having kids.
God has given you an incredible gift of encouragement and it’s evident in your writing. Thanks for all of your inspirations and keep it up!
DD
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2007 - 01:53pm PT
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Dave,
Thanks so much for the nice words and welcome to this welting pot of experiences.
The Rik Rieder event is branded deeply in my soul. Bringing him down alone was probably the single most grueling piece of work I’ve done on the captain. I am so glad it turned out for the better. All my best if you see him.
As you all know, I too was once rescued along with Tobin Sorenson. I know too well the feelings that follow, humbleness, anxiety, self worth… you definitely grow from it.
You guys ushered in a new generation with your early accomplishments and the PO Wall ascent you did is testament to that. As a lost friend of mind put it “slaying the mythical dragon” it takes a young uninhibited mind sometimes to pull it off. Wasn’t it Kurt who did the second ascent lead of the wave pitch on Greasy but Groovy?
I remember the early OR days and seeing you in a suit and Tie enjoying the scene.
You know I have this picture I see all the time of my youngest son Alec on his mom’s back in one of your Baby packs you designed and marketed. Great stuff!
Hope all is well with you and yours
Cheers,
Mike Graham
Edit: HaHa, I meant “Melting Pot” must have been a Freudian slip.
Hey John, you're welcome!
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john bald
climber
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Dec 17, 2007 - 03:16pm PT
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Thanks Mike for the TKG TR...always the first route that comes to mind when sending folks that way.
Steve, great reminder about Duck Soup. My first lead in new RR's before I got a pair of EB's drop shipped from relatives in England. Wow these funny looking boots really work!
Slab on!
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Double D
climber
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Dec 17, 2007 - 09:55pm PT
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"Wasn’t it Kurt who did the second ascent lead of the wave pitch on Greasy but Groovy?"
I honestly can't rember who led that pitch but I do remember that that was one of my favorite face climbs in the Valley. I was in awe of what you guys must have felt like on the FA. I always wondered if you somehow rapped in from above to scope it first. We went through a huge face climbing phase, mainly on middle and when we did greasy... I was blown away at the high quality, edges and angle...unlike anything else of that era.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2007 - 10:39pm PT
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For the record, I wasn’t on the FA of GBG. When I went up there I used the old “Hot Toes” ploy in my Eb’s to back off that thing.
Somewhere a while back I posted a Picture of Kline on Free Wheelin. May have been that Stonemaster thread way back.
Here’ it’s easier to post it again
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2008 - 06:07pm PT
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I thought I would piggy back this TR into the Suicide “Gold” category.
Rick, since you asked
I am waiting for the TR when Ian drags Dad up Valhalla!
You can always go back
But you may have to work a little harder at it.
In 1973 I was sixteen with only a few things on my mind, (Mostly) climbing and making gear for climbing. Staying in shape was easy back then. You didn’t need to work out for climbing because you seemed to always be on the rock. The making gear part was more a novelty back then but sure won over doing my school homework. I could actually visualize there was an occupation looming somewhere in my climbing future.
School was just a stone’s throw from great bouldering at “Pirates Cove” in Corona Del Mar. I was fortunate to have a couple of understanding teachers who would actually let me cut class and go and get my morning workout. I was bouldering as much as I could because I was determined to climb “Valhalla” at Suicide Rock in the San Jacinto Mountains. It still stood unrepeated since the first ascent and was repelling strong teams. Jim Ericson and Scott Stewart from Colorado, who had just a few days before bagged the prized FFA of the crag’s “Insomnia Crack”, had given it their best effort.
There were others of like minds who had set their sights on that climb. At that time it was the new standard. It was a chance to personally test the sum of all your preparation, to measure yourself against the generation before you.
When Valhalla was finally repeated, it all happened in rapid succession. I was fortunate to pull off the Sixth ascent leading all three pitches and a week later following Terry Emerson up the Seventh. This one climbed formed the basis of a lasting bond for many of us that still continues to this day.
When I founded the “Gramicci” Company in the early eighties my focus switched to the making gear for climbers and it demanded more and more of my time. The act of climbing itself became more difficult to keep up with and staying in the kind of shape it required proved daunting with a growing business and family. The following years I would get out on the rocks with my kids, showing them a world of challenge in the outdoors. It felt that the globe trotting days of climbing the best routes were to be just memories.
A few years back I thought it would be great to climb Valhalla again before or on my fiftieth birthday. However that date soon passed. There is truth in the saying that time goes by faster the older you get.
Through time I have found that good things can happen when you don’t try so hard. Your mind is in a different space, not weighed down with expectations and the pressure of failure. Look back to the times when you simply summed up a great experience to, “I was having a good day” or “I was feeling good that day”. Those are the moments you try and duplicate but are again elusive because you’re trying too hard once more.
My chance to climb Valhalla once more came a few weeks back when my Son felt it was his time. Fantastic I thought, even to follow it would be a treat. I would be able to test myself again, this time against my youth of ‘73.
We got to the base of the route in the late afternoon around 4:30. I told Ian it looks like I’ll lead the first and third pitch leaving him with the crux second pitch. Racking up in silence I try to clear all the notions of “what if I can’t do this” so I try to focus on nothing. In the end the only thing that really put my head on straight was getting to the top of the first pitch. Anchored in and my shoes loosened I brought up Ian.
Looking very powerful he arrived at the belay very quickly. With his adrenaline pumping he hadn’t noticed he had opened the tip of his finger on a sharp flake below. As he started up the second pitch it opened even more making it difficult to hang on. Seeing the disappointment in his eyes he returned to the belay.
Without giving it much thought I tightened up my boots real well and told him I should give it a go since we were here.
Ian sizing up the crux on the second pitch
When I got out to the first bolt I looked up, saw where I needed to be and before I knew it I was clipping the second bolt with the crux behind me. Looking back at my wide eyed son I heard him say “Damm Dad, you looked like you did that before” With a big smile I reply, “yeah just a few times"; Who knows, maybe after thirty five years there was still some remnants of the moves deep in my subconscious waiting to be useful again. At this point it was just like the first time all over. Here I was, over fifty and having a momentary feeling of being sixteen again. Continuing to the belay I reveled in the quality of the rock and the remainder of the pitch.
Ian put up with his bleeding finger and refused to let me lead the third pitch. As I followed the last pitch I notice its run out in spots and comment on what nice job he did with the lead. When I get to the top I can see he is a little bummed since he really wanted to lead this route on-sight. He told me it was still good he got to do the route with me anyway.
I told him the best part of all this is that he gets to come back and do it again.
You can view more photos by following this link You can always go back
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 17, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
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Thanks, Mike! A few times I've gone back to memorable climbs, and it's always a treat.
"In 1973 I was sixteen with only a few things on my mind, (Mostly) climbing and making gear for climbing."
What about girls? :-)
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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May 17, 2008 - 08:55pm PT
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I'm pretty sure we did the second ascent of Ten Carat Gold BITD. Now, I don't remember who I was with, but I do remember other guilty parties from that afternoon back in the Summer of 1973.
We were at the base of the wall and I saw Largo, Harrison and (Terry Goodykuntz?) at the top of Goliath. Johnny and I shouted greetings to each other, and he and Richard started raving about this new route they had just done. "Ho man... You should get on this thing. Richard and I just did it last weekend. Not too hard."
Now I'd known John for a long time by this time, and Katrina would not have been such a disaster if Largo were around to have filled the sandbags. However my skip-loader was equal to his dump truck, and my partner was game. There's this great ledge near the top of Goliath that looks directly down on the Windowpane, so the lads settled in to watch the show. All they needed was a bag of peanuts...
We made short order of the first pitch, and I headed around the corner on to the 'Pane. The dudes, I'm sure, had other things to do but they hung with Johnny on that ledge watching with great intent. …don't recall ever being so closely scrutinized on the lead before, or since. Twenty feet out from the bolt, Largo reminded me of this member of the Peanut's gallery:
As I continued padding up the slab, palming and pressing, trying to feel every nubbin under my PAs, the tunnel was closing in and a great quiet descended as I approached the thank gawd bolt. I certainly felt like Bartlett looked, but there was no way that I could show it.
The restraint required to NOT grab that biner after the clip can't be exaggerated, since I had witnesses looking on. Their disappointment was palpable!
The moment that I started climbing up the remainder of that slab, the show was over. The Boys immediately headed out, and on the summit I belayed my partner up in solitude.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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May 17, 2008 - 09:12pm PT
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Mike, Great story about climbing Vahalla (again). Congrats on the fine lead and getting to share it with your son!
Robs, I can visualize the scene you describe so well. Nice story.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 17, 2008 - 11:48pm PT
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Arriving late on this thread. Extremely exceptional writing, Mike. Really. This is what modern rock climbing authorship is about. You clearly know that it is not just a specialized form of travel writing. Thanks for the private vision. Thanks tons! You always were really great!
best PH
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 18, 2008 - 12:58am PT
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Wow, I just stumbled onto this thread late and all I can say is "inspirational!" I don't know if I'll ever climb Valhalla with my son (he's just four, but maybe I still have time!), but Ten Carrot is certainly within the realm. Poetic and a great reflection of the history connected to the now. Thank you.
Fletch
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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May 18, 2008 - 10:00am PT
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Mike,
Thanks for the latest installment of the excellent adventures of Ian and Mike! It is inspiring to see you and Ian picking off the old classics: Figures last month and now Valhalla.
The Vampire waits patiently in the shadows across the valley.
Rick
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2008 - 11:57am PT
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Anders, I thought I should be real careful talking about girls or sex considering what happen to Locker last week. Funny that was the first thing my wife said too when she read it. “What about girls?”
Nice one Rob! Classic, if I saw PA’s on your feet I might have stuck around for a show too.
Randy, I was obviously never one for repeating routes too much as I always seemed to move on. BUT that was the forth time I did Valhalla.
I have had some great conversations with Clark Jacobs the past few months (the resident authority on the route). You probably know being a guide he’s done that route getting close to 200 times. I would love to TRY and get him to write about his ascent when he spread Bud (Ivan) Couch’s ashes over the climb. It’s really a special tale.
Peter, your post really means a lot to me thanks. I’m glad you enjoyed the stories.
Rick, Fletcher, it’s nice to still be able to inspire. It one of those gifts that keeps moving forward.
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Dogtown Climber
Trad climber
The Idyllwild City dump
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May 18, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
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Its been 20+ years for myself as well,But it feels like I just lead it again thru your post.Keep-em climbing sounds like he's do-in fine. Great read.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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May 19, 2008 - 12:38am PT
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This is about the best climbing thread I have read since I joined ST a couple months ago. I went on the link you posted from the Josh redux, Mr. Graham, and if any of you missed it, it was just as good or better than this Thread.
As prior posters have said, your writing skills are excellent. You feel like you are on the rock with you and Ian, one can learn from how you describe what you are doing, how you are doing it and with what equip.
In other posts recently, younger climbers have asked how to find mentors to help them. If they read Threads like this they would learn a ton. Perhaps you and Ian could post more of your climbs with the super pictures and information.
Amy and I enjoyed meeting Ian at Josh. He is not only a good climber but a cool young dude (a real gentleman!)
Lynne
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