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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Jan 29, 2008 - 12:34am PT
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what a great post for me. bruce worked in robbins shop in 73 as did my partner stu polack. we spent a lot of time jumping on the tramp in the wharehouse. Not sure how it happened, ie did bruce convince stu or whatever but the next thing I knew we were hiking to the base of the west face. Mind you stu was an eagle scout and I was a big time swimmer, that was the extent of our climbing experience. Everything went fine however I always have to tell this one story. At the top of the ow cracks, can't remember what they are called now, I ran out of rope. there was a quarter inch bolt, in those days at least to us it was what we called "bomb proof". I setup the belay where I hung, proceeded to haul and stu jumared, all on one quarter inch bolt. yes we were young, dumb, but so lucky.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2008 - 12:41am PT
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Never quite felt THAT lucky! LOL
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Jan 30, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
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Bump for a great thread.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2008 - 11:26am PT
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And a great unsung hero of the clean..........
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2008 - 06:10pm PT
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Here you go Ken. YC and Bruce Carson did the first clean and hammerless ascent of the Nose in a bold stroke August, 1973. Date edit.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2008 - 03:47pm PT
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I wonder how many hundreds of piton placements were made after it went clean at C3 thirty five years ago? That is often the great irony of clean climbing that it doesn't result in a significantly harder grade but only requires some commitment, patience and creativity to work out a solution without resorting to the destructive use of force.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Oct 27, 2008 - 03:57pm PT
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Rob Lesher and I went hammerless on the Nose in "78". We knew it had been done that way, but it still seemed ballsy to us!
Not taking pins was fairly common I think, but not taking a hammer was not.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Oct 27, 2008 - 04:24pm PT
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Good point.
I rarely used pins after 1971 on either new or established routes, but I almost always carried a hammer with a pointy end (unless I knew the route well).
I sorted my old gear this past weekend and found that most of the pins that I had purchased in the late 60s (when I was planning to be 'real' climber) had never been used.
On the other hand most of my old Hexs and Stoppers have characteristic dings on them, oddly shaped like the pointy end of my hammer.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2008 - 09:31pm PT
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Hammerless bump from the father of clean aid!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 22, 2008 - 09:56pm PT
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Anyone remember the "slightly smutty" nut tool?
I think it was Forrest, maybe CMI, it had a lump of heavy (not toxic) metal on the end for coaxing purposes.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Nov 22, 2008 - 11:11pm PT
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John Fiske--the husband of a woman who used to work at my school--did the first ascent of the Rostrum with Chuck Pratt and I just realized that I should have sent him the info on the big 50th anniversary party. A few years ago I lent him a copy of 'Ordeal By Piton', 'Camp 4', and 'Yosemite Climber' and got a fantastic note back from him. As soon as I can get it scanned I'll post up.
Doug and Steve--thanks for the inspiration. Doug, I can't count how many times I've sprained an ankle after getting psyched on 'Running Talus'! Plus, you unknowingly really pushed me to make the move to the East Side, particularly the Palisades and Buttermilk Country.
Steve--Between Jolly Roger and the pinless ascent of the Muir Wall you really pushed the boat further into the deep water. The rest of us now need to get out after it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
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If you understand the depth and character of one's predecessors then nothing short of one's best effort even comes close to being satisfactory or inspired with respect to personal style. It comes down to will and creativity.....pretty raw and simple really.
I have been fortunate to be able to add a few adventures to the mix to get people to expand their own sense of possibility upon refection.
Thanks for the acknowledgement, Marty.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Jun 16, 2009 - 11:45pm PT
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bump-any beta on the west face of sentinel? anyone do that route anymore?
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Jun 17, 2009 - 03:13am PT
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That is one I ALWAYS wanted to do! Photos anyone?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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The West Face is a classic route that everybody should do IMO. I did it back in the late seventies with New Mexico hardman Peter Prandoni. The rock is a bit granular just like the rest of Sentinel but the climbing is well worth the scrabbling. It begs to be done as you see its narrow and elegant aspect every morning from Camp 4 and points down valley.
Originally the route went up as a Grade VI because Yvon and Tom climbed it from the base before discovering the third class approach now commonly in use.
Having seen Sentinel- The West Face several times beforehand, I was a bit nervous about The Expanding Flake pitch but found it to be set up with fixed Stoppers when I actually got there. Here is a shot of Peter at the classic fixed piton belay from the end of the difficulties on that very pitch.
I also followed my first 5.11 pitch high in the air on that outing and bivied on the descent due to headlamp troubles in the failing light. Sweet memories!!!
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Gene
climber
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Jun 17, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
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Back when I was a puppy and read Roper daily, that description of the expanding flake would make my hands sweat. A1 if you send - A5 if you blew it. Good stuff!
gm
Edit: Roper says to nail up to a sling belay from a bolt. Nice 1/4 incher for sure. Yikes! Almost as good as expando with fixed stoppers on a thin ceiling/flake!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jun 17, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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Since nobody else has mentioned it I would just like to say that Bruce was one of the nicest people I've known. RIP bro.
Interestingly, his frequent ropemate, Dave Anderson, was also exceptionally nice. They deserved each other.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 17, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
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Just a reminder t'y'll that BITD one 1/4 x 1-1/4 was thought to be good to go. Eventually reason overtook everything though .
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
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Reilly- Dave Anderson was a very fine man indeed and the perfect partner for Bruce during their clean climbing adventures. I mourned his tragic death along with everyone that knew him well. He was going to be a first rate old codger and I never foresaw a short life in that gentle and determined face. Thanks for invoking his partnership and personality. Those two had a special bond well worth honoring.
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Gene
climber
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Jun 17, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
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Back in the Dark Ages, when Bruce was working for RR in Modesto, he sold me a pair of water damaged Galibier Peuterey boots for $27.50 rather than $35.00. Cosmetic stains only that were immediately covered with SnoSeal. Still have them, although their last climb was Shasta in 1997.
RIP Bruce. Class act all the way. Fun and friendly guy.
gm
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