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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Sep 13, 2007 - 01:00pm PT
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I spent a couple of Chuck's last nights in Yos with him. He was really uncomfortable about sleeping in the park those last days and when he heard I was heading out of the park to bivy he asked if he could come along. I've always liked Chuck and enjoyed the many nights I've spent hanging with him, hearing his stories and even listening to him talk about physics. Regardless of your take on his physics, you can't deny it's amusing to hear him tell a tale.
The first night, we headed out of the park and found a nice bivy. Chuck had a sleeping bag, a blanket and a pad but was still a little cold, so I made us a fire. We sat around the fire exchanging stories, drinking something (although I don't remember what now, probably wine, knowing me) and Chuck had some smoke. Of course, Chuck being Chuck, he insisted on sharing. He even offered me some of his food, a number of times, thinking that my telling him that I'd already eaten and wasn't hungry was just me being polite. I finally had to take a little something to make him happy. Anyone who knows Chuck knows that he was always very giving. I've seen Chuck give to people so many times. Even when you know he didn't have anything, or much, to give.
He told me about the bust, his plans to head to Mexico and shared a lot of his frustrations. I felt pretty bad for the guy as it was a fairly cold time of year at night in the Valley and the tools had seized most of his stuff, and pretty much all of his clothes. I tried to get him to take one of the many offers of employment he'd gotten in the Valley, so that he could stay in his home. He wasn't really fond of the idea and preferred to move on, away from Yosemite. I was of the frame of mind that the park, and even the tools, shared equal responsibility in Chongo's stay there. They enabled him all along the way. I thought he should take one of the jobs and make a go of it in court.
I woke the next morning to the well known sounds of Chongo hacking. We gathered our gear and headed back into the park. As I approached the entrance kiosk, I wondered if they were going to call out "the man" when they saw Chuck in the front seat of my car! I envisioned tools hanging from the trees with automatic weapons, swarming my car from all directions. Just barely eluding capture, I dropped Chuck at "the caf" then went and climbed a bit, then shot some photos. Thinking a lot about the cold and Chuck's lack of clothing, I drove home to Fresno and went through my closet. I was able to find quite a pile of stuff for Chuck. Mainly old long sleeve synthetics and fleeces, which I hadn't worn in a while.
That evening, when I found Chuck, he wanted to run over to Huff for something. After that, we went back out to our bivy spot, for pretty much the same evening as before. Chuck was pretty touched and shocked when I gave him the clothing and some canned foods I had in the garage for wall climbing. His reaction and expression touched me, as I know he'd been touched and was appreciative.
That was the last time I saw Chongo. I typically know where he is and how he is doing through mutual friends and keep saying that I need to make some time to go and see him. Kinda like calling Grandma or a friend from school though, it gets put off too often and next thing you know, it's been a few months, then a year. I don't worry about him, It would just be good to see him. Chuck's a survivor, but I miss my friend.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Sep 13, 2007 - 01:10pm PT
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"I guess after so many years of trying to avoid "the man", you just get use to it."
I do miss seeing Chongo, but I can't imagine him running from cops just b/c they were cops. His style in the Valley wasn't really low profile from what I saw. There was one parking lot cop who made it his mission to get Chongo kicked out, and Chongo befriended the guy...tried to bring him over to his side, IIRC.
thatgirl...pls send him a hello from Melissa and J if you're seeing him regularly.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Sep 13, 2007 - 04:24pm PT
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Can't vouch for the validity, but wasn't there a Chongo Bros/shooting Mexican cough syrup connection?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Sep 13, 2007 - 09:15pm PT
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Nice story, Randy, and thanks for your kindnesses. Did the tools not return his clothes and stuff? How could they keep it? It's not like it has any value. Sheesh.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Sep 13, 2007 - 10:34pm PT
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Pete, it hadn't been that long since the whole thing went down and they were holding all his stuff as "evidence"... You know how that goes - pigs do whatever they please.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Sep 14, 2007 - 12:49pm PT
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Did he eventually get his stuff back?
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Sep 23, 2007 - 04:23am PT
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A few years rolled by and I kept charging the walls and became fast friends with Chongo. I had done a few push ascents and was psyched to try one solo, I chose Lunar Eclipse. As I got my bags ready I saw a couple of good friends in the parking lot, Jose and Pablo, they insisted they helped carry loads to the base with me.
At the base Jose told me with a huge smile, “If I see you on the Valley floor before you send, I’M coming with you”. It was like he knew something that nobody could foresee.
The next day I awoke and climbed the first pitch at a quick pace. I got to the belay, fixed my line and rapped. By the time I cleaned the pitch and started to haul, I noticed a core-shot in my lead line. “Damn IT”, I yelled into the blowing wind.
I descended my ropes and ran down the talus for another rope I could use for the ascent. As I was leaving my car I saw a bunch of frieneds gathered at the bridge, I waved and continued on my way.
“Ammon, I told you if I see you again, I was coming with you”, I heard a voice yelling. It was Jose. “BUT, we need Chongo to come with us, that will make a true adventure”.
I argued with Jose telling him Chongo would slow us down and if he was serious about the ascent I wanted to go for the record, just me and him.
“Ammon, you and I would have no problem shaving the time… but with Chongo… THAT is a challenge”.
He was right and Jose talked Chongo into the adventure, but not without a struggle from Chuck.
We started up and it was good to be with two really good bros. Chongo would only get a short rest when he arrived at the belay before we would fix the rope and get him going again… no rest for the weary.
Some time in the middle of the night Jose yelled down to me, “Ammon, me envía encima de algunas hondas”.
“What, Jose it’s Ammon down here, I don’t understand spanish”.
Laughter above followed by, “Sorry Ammon, I need some slings”.
A few minutes would go by and I heard, “Necesito carabiners y las levas”.
This went on for hours and Chongo would start translating for me, “Ammon, he needs carabiners and gear”, I would hear from below… as Chongo was ascending the rope.
The proudest moment of the ascent was when Jose and I were on the summit and I was looking at my watch, Chongo was still at the belay.
“Hurry up Chongo, the time is ticking”, I yelled down at him.
About three minutes later he was there at the rim and Jose and I pulled him over the edge. I stopped my watch, we made a record ascent climbing the routh in 19 hours and 58 minutes, WITH CHONGO.
Jose and I packed our gear and got ready for a late night/ early morning descent.
“You guys aren't going down are you?”, Chuck asked.
“Yeah, we don’t have bivy gear Chongo, we’re going down”, Jose replied.
We ended up stuffing Chongo in my haulbag and left him at the summit. As we left I kept hearing, “That was bitchn’, I can’t believe how fast you guys climb, that was bitchn’, that was bitchn’…. that was SO bitchn'!
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