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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
where the climbin's good
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Sep 30, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
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This last week we climbed up to Lucifer’s Ledge. I had been wanting to do so for a long time, but was put off by the old bolts. As expected, it turned out to be a fun climb, and it was cool to get high up on the Apron.
Thanks for the good work, guys.
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clustiere
Trad climber
Rock Ridge/ Oakland CA
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thanks for all your hard work
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Always thought there was the possibility of another pitch above the ending of the fourth pitch of "Sailin' Shoes". Good that all four pitches have been replaced. Remember that Eric Mayo and I did a second pitch to "Dead Babies" in 1984 that never got into the book either. Believe that Ken Ariza and I did "Nothing On the Apron" in 1986 or 1987 and it, too, never got into the guide book. The Apron is certainly the realm of the obscure and remote.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Roger and Clint: Many thanks. More $ on the way to ASCA for rebolting support. These ancient bones recently enjoyed some apron classics and found same old joyful sweep of granite all around, nice breeze, great views. And not too many climbers. So, am happy to pay to play.
Scoped out Punch Bowl (way back when FA with Bob Kamps) and posters probably are right: best to stay away for now to avoid potential rockfall and some crunched bolts. But someday it might be a good one for the rebolt list.
Rockermike: agreed, Goodrich rt. did seem pretty run in one area.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Tom,
The FA info for Angel's Approach in the Meyers/Reid guides simply say "Tom Higgins, et al" with any names of partner(s) or a date. Can you tell us more about it?
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jiimmy
Boulder climber
san diego
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Very nice of you to replace those bolts.Does anyone really climb over there still? It was all the ragein the 70's/80's(for people like myself who didnt want to do any steep hard crack) but I thought it was forgotten. Guess I was wrong. The bark service is outdated.
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jiimmy
Boulder climber
san diego
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Karl, you soloed to the oasis? You are my hero.....
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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"Karl, you soloed to the oasis? You are my hero."
Twice, once free solo onsight via the Harding Route and once with a rope via Lucifer's
Heroism probably involves some degree of stupidity if the only person saved by it is myself!'
Peace
Karl
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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jiimmy,
Roger answered your question about the current popularity of climbing on the Apron in his second Sept. 12 post on this thread:
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Curt,
I don't post often, and twice in one day might be a record for me. Yea, a lot of people are climbing on the Apron. Almost all those are climbing in the "Safe Zone" People almost daily on "Harry Daley" even a line sometimes. "Mr. Natural" see's action also, but that is getting a little into the "un-safe area" (thats where the climber was killed in the last rockfall) The "Grack is also busy as is "Goodrich Pinnacle". I've been there for the last few weeks and that is what I've seen. I have seen no one to the far right or the far left. I plan to work the area between "Goodrich Pinnacle" and "Harry Daley" next season because of all the activity there and the fact that the bolts there need some attention.
Roger Brown
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