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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 05:58pm PT
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Caylor said:
“Ya gotta commit to the right side of the roof, but the holds are on the LEFT!, That or it's 12a.”
I don't know where Pat is right now, but Oli (hehe), I'll handle your light work: this is off width Hank, and you ought to know, and I know you do, that means it's not about the holds. In OW, looking for holds is missing the point, (unless there happen to be some and you better not miss them). Kids might be reading this and we don't want them to get the wrong idea and maybe get up there and start fallin' out ‘a stuff.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 06:06pm PT
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OK, where was I; oh yes, on the upper meadow. Up to this point, everything was going smoothly; no falls, no dropped gear, no stuck ropes, we two moving along like a well oiled machine. Sweet as pie. Then my camera stopped working, just as Larry was pulling along through a beautiful scene above an overhang. But Larry is an old hand and quickly slid his camera down the rope to me.
So here he is leading the beautiful upper head wall, some of the most lovely 5.6 climbing you will ever do:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 06:17pm PT
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So the last pitch of The Grand Giraffe is quite cool. Bob Culp used to use for his guiding service an excellent picture of himself moving out through the steep pockets to gain the first pin on this pitch. I have always found it very exhilarating to engage the convoluted moves getting out to that pin.
On this particular day, we had these big cams and they happen to fit perfectly in all the grooves and pockets, so in these pictures you see Tarbuster engaged in the “murder of the impossible”, well perhaps that's a bit dramatic, what I mean to say is I was killing a nice run out with gear:
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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So here he is leading the beautiful upper head wall, some of the most lovely 5.6 climbing you will ever do:
Gotta say, that 5th pitch is among the finest 5.6 leads on the planet.
On this particular day, we had these big cams and they happen to fit perfectly in all the grooves and pockets, so in these pictures you see Tarbuster engaged in the “murder of the impossible”, well perhaps that's a bit dramatic, what I mean to say is I was killing a nice run out with gear:
Tar managed to overprotect the famously unprotected 6th pitch by fitting big cams between slopers. I was impressed.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 07:41pm PT
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I just hit a milestone:
I had to open up a third album in photo bucket as I just passed 2000 photos, all spit out onto the Taco of course.
You guys are so tolerant.
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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More pictures, please, Tarbousier, please, more pictures.
Got Woodson?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there... say, you guys.. this is great pics..... and great work, of course... say, are these rocks really this yellow tint? or is that sunlight adding to the color... where exactly is this spot... these rocks look great...
well, i may not climb them like my brother did, but i still always loved the rocks... ever since yosemite, we were all hooked... i was more for just hiking, etc...course i was a great tree climber...
say, yeah, about your hat tarbuster, aint that dangerous from the brim, and all... my hat (black stetson, from TEXAS... aw, i just had to add that) well, it had occasional hit odd things that are hanging about, on occasions, in close quarters... though for the most part, i'm so used to it, theres no trouble... but man, you guys need freedom, up there... so i was just wondering, too, like the other guy on one of these post, did...thats all...
thanks for the great share, here to both you guys....
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thedogfather
climber
Midwest
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Pic of pitch two from 1976. Note the shoes.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Tar, Chiloe,
You guys are making my day..... again!
You know, I'm thinkin' of getting a Stetson again. The moths got mine in about '85. My only fear is that, Tar, I wouldn't look as stylish as you and maybe people would think I was the guy that came to clean the latrine. I gotta think this over some more.
Carry on with the report. I'll wait here.
Zander
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Aug 10, 2007 - 02:52am PT
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Green 'nards dogfather! I stockpiled those, then sticky rubber came out and I was talked into giving them to goodwill or something , at least three pairs, sigh, what was I thinking? what was I thinking it with? imagine those, c-4 equipped? the mind boggles.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 10, 2007 - 03:25am PT
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Grand Giraffe was always one of my favorite climbs. I think I may have done if fifty times. Seeing these photos makes me so deeply nostalgic, and I miss my beloved canyon, all those colors, the air blowing, the river sound far below, the green and yellow lichen, good friends, beautiful sky, trains passing through the tunnels in the mountain to the south, those trains I rode so many times... I can smell the rope, as I write this, can feel those holds, that gorgeous sandstone. Such good memories, of being young and ready to climb...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 10, 2007 - 08:26am PT
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Grand Giraffe was always one of my favorite climbs. I think I may have done if fifty times. Seeing these photos makes me so deeply nostalgic, and I miss my beloved canyon, all those colors, the air blowing, the river sound far below, the green and yellow lichen, good friends, beautiful sky, trains passing through the tunnels in the mountain to the south, those trains I rode so many times... I can smell the rope, as I write this, can feel those holds, that gorgeous sandstone. Such good memories, of being young and ready to climb...
Pat, my history with the canyon is brief compared with yours (I moved to the springs in 1970, moved away 1977) but your descriptions evoke the atmosphere -- which was much more than climbing -- so well.
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wiclimber
Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
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Aug 10, 2007 - 08:36am PT
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I miss it too.
I'm sure you guys looked at Art's Spar when you were up there. Who was Art? Higby?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 10, 2007 - 10:03am PT
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Yep, Art Higbee.
say, are these rocks really this yellow tint? or is that sunlight adding to the color... where exactly is this spot... these rocks look great...
The yellow and green are bright lichens; the rock itself ranges from pinkish-white to dark maroon, with some black-stained surfaces but mostly in-between shades of red. The combination of all these colors, and sunlight moving over the complex features, makes a visual delight. The day of our climb was intermittently overcast, so colors were muted. They're brilliant on a sunny winter day.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 10, 2007 - 10:29am PT
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wiclimber
Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
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Aug 10, 2007 - 10:36am PT
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Nice pic. Morning Thunder?
Can you tell I love the "name that route" game?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2007 - 12:04pm PT
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Those green Vasgue Shoenards are iconic Eldo footwear,
These belonged to John Ruger, and I take them out for a spin every now and then:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2007 - 12:13pm PT
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The green in n’ards in action,
All photos from CLIMB!:
Duncan Ferguson on Hair City:
Duncan on Werk Supp:
Steve Wunsch on Jules Verne:
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Aug 10, 2007 - 12:27pm PT
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yeah! fantabulous tr! that looks like so much fun.
my kid and i climbed a tiny bit in co last week; would've done more but we had to dodge rain the whole week.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Aug 10, 2007 - 12:45pm PT
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From the Who...
People try to put us d-down (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
Just because we get around (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
Things they do look awful c-c-cold (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
I hope I die before I get old (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
This is my generation
This is my generation, baby
Why don't you all f-fade away (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
And don't try to dig what we all s-s-say (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
I'm not trying to cause a big s-s-sensation (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
I'm just talkin' 'bout my g-g-g-generation (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
This is my generation
This is my generation, baby
Why don't you all f-fade away (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
And don't try to d-dig what we all s-s-say (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
I'm not trying to cause a b-big s-s-sensation (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
I'm just talkin' 'bout my g-g-generation (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
This is my generation
This is my generation, baby
People try to put us d-down (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
Just because we g-g-get around (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
Things they do look awful c-c-cold (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
Yeah, I hope I die before I get old (Talkin' 'bout my generation)
This is my generation
This is my generation, baby
Good OP Tar...
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