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WBraun
climber
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Apr 11, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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Merry did it .....
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 11, 2009 - 02:18am PT
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Deep Obscurity #089454 sector beyond Arch Rock
Omakara FA John Bachar 5.12 something really hard.
This a deep sleeper out in the boonies where only real hard men venture. I found it and failed miserably. Told Johny Rock about it and he TKO'ed it.
Damn ... it's a beaut. Coz put it to sleep on the second ascent easily.
I've only managed to do it on top rope several times but all my lead attempts failed just before the end ....
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 11, 2009 - 02:24am PT
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Yeah Kevin
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 11, 2009 - 03:40am PT
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Werner,
> Deep Obscurity #089453 sector "Sierra Point".
> "The Fistabule" FA Walt Shipley & me number rating unknown.
> Layman's rating hard fisting in a crack.
Nice! The 1994 guidebook has it on p.228 as Fistibule 5.11c.
Not exactly roadside. O2 or O3, but I guess O.unrepeated and O.never_seen_by_most_people, really.
> Omakara
Is the crux up high still 1 1/8", or thin? I guessed thin for the "routes by type" list. (I figured I might as well ask).
Kevin,
> Obscurity is where it's at!
:-) For sure, finding the climb can be an adventure by itself. Then chapter 2 of the story starts.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
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Apr 11, 2009 - 04:53am PT
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" This a deep sleeper out in the boonies where only real hard men venture. I found it and failed miserably. Told Johny Rock about it and he TKO'ed it.
Damn ... it's a beaut. Coz put it to sleep on the second ascent easily. "
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bob
climber
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Apr 11, 2009 - 09:40am PT
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Mindahoonee Wall left of the Upper Falls was a great little adventure. I haven't spoke with too many folks who've been up there. I believe its a Shipley and ? route. First two pitches were strenuous 10D. Really obscure 10a later and the 11a pitch was just plain fun be it with a little vegetation. Anyone been up there? There's a corner left of this route on the same formation that looks radical.
Also, Indica Point. Way obscure and hard as FUG for 10b. Awsome ending pulling out of an overhanging 5.9 crack up and over the railing for the trail above Five Open Books.
Bob J.
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alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
The American West
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Apr 11, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
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So where do FAs fit into the scale?
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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hI Clint-
Saw that "Time to Get Wild and Loose" as an example of your obscurities. Grant and I climbed this route for the Trail Crew, after a big rockfall on the falls trail. The route climbs up right where the first main set of switchbacks end, where there was a big rockfall years ago.
Our job was to trundle huge blocks 3 pitches up!
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scuffy b
climber
Bad Brothers' Bait and Switch Shop
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I looked at Duncan Imperial a few weeks ago.
fixed pin with poot sling at the crux, several slings above on
a horn (possible belay) and yet higher, several slings.
Extra Credit, though, you can see it from the road, but it must
take almost a day to get to it.
And that thing GRE, that's probably not climbed too often.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Scuffy, so how was GRE? I always wondered if anyone would ever head up to it...
Here's an obscure route that I thoroughly enjoyed...Nagasaki My Love/East Arrowhead Chimney...old Harding and Powell bolts for one of the picthes.
Nothing beats the jungle pitch on Chockstone Chimney, but it sounds like a trade route these days.
Has anyone ever been in the Pratt Chimneys on the N. Face of Middle since Pratt?
Elliott
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scuffy b
climber
Bad Brothers' Bait and Switch Shop
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Elliott,
I have only looked, so far. I went up one day to scope The Bin,
and took a hard look at GRE (the Bin was long-standing
objective) on my way down, then looked again the next day after
my "ascent" of the Bin.
I'm guessing that because of the roundness below the lip of the
cave/roof part, that it's going to be really hard but enjoyable,
if I get it. The upper part looks like a good reward for
pulling off the lower part.
GRE and Extra Credit are certainly at the top of my Arch Rock
list (goals).
sm
EDIT
there's a thread, The Bin, Arch Rock TR
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Just read the Bin TR, sounds like quite the adventure...I used to hate the scraping feeling of pulling stuck limbs out of constricting wide cracks.
With high pro in the cave on GRE, the hard moves are essentially top roped as I remember.
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WBraun
climber
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Deep obscurity #8709 cliff right behind "Cat Pinnacle".
Ala Moana big ass roof wide hands and fist.
FA me and Yabo. Pimpin hard roof crack .....
Deep obscurity #86032 "The Relm of the Lizard King"
FA Kevin Warhol aka, (warbler) & Yabo, second ascent me and Coz.
Awesome hard thin jammin.
Go get em men .......
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Vulva, Wyoming
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I tried to go look at AlaMoana one day.... hiked uphill for a long sweaty time, some of it crawling on hands and knees, and never saw the crag. I also managed to get poison oak inside my mouth from the many bushes slapping me in the mug.
I'm ready to go back.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 17, 2011 - 01:01am PT
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bump
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 17, 2011 - 01:42am PT
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really cool, thx Warbler
now the wyde guys have a new one to check out! 7-9 isn't just happy hour, it's wide!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2011 - 01:43am PT
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initial forays have begun...
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MH2
climber
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Jan 17, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
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Another interesting question about the obscurity scale.
We often see threads about extremes: the most El Cap ascents, etc., etc.
If there is an obscurity scale, what is the most obscure climb?
One proposal would be a climb that only 1 person knows about. If it ever appears on any obscurity scale it is automatically disqualified as the most obscure climb.
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scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
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Jan 17, 2011 - 12:48pm PT
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I've gone and looked at Scab Laborer, spurred by Kevin's earlier postings about Devil's Dancefloor.
I'm really surprised to hear how little action
it has seen. I had assumed a handful of leads by now.
Half-hour approach from Tamarack, yes, true, but I've done the approach
from below a couple different ways (including the right way) and if Kevin
did it in an hour, he would be waiting quite a while for me to catch up.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 17, 2011 - 10:24pm PT
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