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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 16, 2007 - 07:09pm PT
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Does this help?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 16, 2007 - 07:12pm PT
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Bend the elbow just so......
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 16, 2007 - 07:15pm PT
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Somebody stop him....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 16, 2007 - 07:16pm PT
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Charles Cole with 1/4 inch drill bit in hand....
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couchmaster
climber
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Jul 16, 2007 - 07:44pm PT
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Lots and lots of good advice up there.
To add to it, pay attention to the tightening torque BB. If you overdo it, you can weaken the placement. If you have any doubt, look up the Mfg specs and use a torque wrench to get a feel for it. The longer the bolt the greater the strength, which will pay dividends on the softer rock, like limestone. A 6" wrench, snug, gets you approx the 22-25 foot lbs that a 3/8" wedge anchor wants to be set.
Using 1/2 diameter will make snapping off the bolt from poor intallation torque/too much torque a non issue, and it's stronger as well. (total overkill:-)
I don't know why we went from 1/4"dia to 3/8" to 1/2" dia so quickly, but some people do advocate the large sizes. Certainly for softer rock, 1/2" diameter and longer too is better.
Do not put in Steel bolts. Diletic strength, in order of good to bad:
Titanium (best)
type 316 stainless
type 304 (also called 18-8) stainless
Steel, zinc plated (worst) this is just cheap/assed lame assed sh#t to use steel.
Type 316 channel (L stock or corner stock) made into hangers (rounded as noted above) and type 316 wedge anhors picked up from an industrial fastener distributor as Kevin notes above would be a perfect, relatively inexpensive/long term solution.
The brush/tube is for cleaning the hole out. the wedge anchors need some initial friction to stop the sleeve from spinning, if you get a spinner, the bolt will not proplerly tighten up. Sometimes clipping to the hanger and putting outward forces as you wrench it down will overcome this problem (which is rare).
Use sharp bits. Carbide bits wear long, and do not easily bind, but will wear at the edges, changing the hole diameter, and at some point, you can't pound a bolt in, producing a F*ed up mess.
You might try this guy, he's trying to get a supply thing going for these kinds of products and is very reasonable: http://renobclimbing.com/
Also, didn't see this tip, marking your drill bit with athletic tape at the depth you want to drill is a good thing, so you can drill deep enough - but not too deep, it will save you both time and wear and tear on equipment.
Good luck:
Bill
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 17, 2007 - 12:51am PT
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Todd Swain in action.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jul 17, 2007 - 12:52am PT
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great pics Todd!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 17, 2007 - 12:58am PT
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George Armstrong....hand drilling on the lead.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 17, 2007 - 01:14am PT
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The Brother Gaines doing his thing.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 17, 2007 - 02:56pm PT
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On the lead....Rob Stahl doing it up...Beak Boulders, J.T.......1/4 inch buttonheads, of course.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 19, 2007 - 06:48pm PT
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F A of Symbolic of Life, (5.11-), J.T.....hand drill, on the lead,...no doubt.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 19, 2007 - 06:54pm PT
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G. Armstrong, F A ,hand-drilled drilled on the lead, Dimpled Chad, J.T.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 19, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
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That thar's a perrdy thing. [in reference to Tony b's drill...]
Oh, drill yer holes straight 'n narrow, and deep too.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 19, 2007 - 08:59pm PT
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i like baby taps to start a hole (not as#@&%e). then wail on em after the beginning of the hole is well defined.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 16, 2007 - 02:22am PT
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Make sure your sport shoes aren't too tight........
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