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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 27, 2007 - 10:27pm PT
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The latest update on Roger's rebolting is that he is up to 92 bolts replaced so far, with at least another 3 days of work to finish up with the top of Greasy But Groovy, a newer route left of GBG, p1 of the Rambler, and misc. other stuff near the ground. So he should be done there by about August 2nd or so. Then he could do more, like up at the Middle Cathedral North Face Apron, if people will help fix ropes for him (he can belay, jumar, has done walls, etc. but doesn't lead 5.8 or harder free climbing).
routes we (Roger, Clint and Ryan) worked on
Bolts to fix next week near the upper pitches of Greasy But Groovy
Note: X (large X are 3/8" bolts - already replaced)
x (small x are 1/4" bolts - will be replaced shortly)
I arrived late on Sunday morning; Roger is already working at the top of p4 of Greasy But Groovy. He replaced 15 bolts on Saturday, a personal record, and he would get 10 Sunday.
Roger and Ryan (pyro on the mountain) at work on Monday
It's a long way up those fixed lines. But we gotta get 'em to the very top of GBG!
Ryan starting p7
fun with Roger's 18' cheater stick!
Ryan belaying atop p8 of the newer route (midway on the p8 traverse of GBG
managing the tangles
belay slings at end of p8 of GBG; I didn't bother clipping.
Sketchy dangling tree rap anchor, backed up with TCU in split 2" thick flake, detached 12" from wall.
Roger's "catch of the day" for Monday, from GBG and Arches Terrace (Star Dryvin bolts were still very solid!).
Ryan arrives at high point on Tuesday.
Ryan replacing the first of his 6 bolts on Tuesday
new rap anchor atop p9 to avoid scary tree/flake. Note: bolts and hangers are mine, not ASCA. ASCA only replaces existing bolts/anchors.
replaced anchor bolt atop p8 of Greasy But Groovy
weather is coming in over Half Dome as Ryan finishes his 6th bolt of the day
Ryan scores an old ring angle
rusty 2nd bolt on p8 of GBG, now replaced.
first or belay bolt on p8 of GBG. I couldn't fix it because it was starting to rain at this point. Roger will have it replaced shortly.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 27, 2007 - 10:39pm PT
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Umm, Clint, some of the bolts ("Xs") on the photo are marked 3/8" x 1/4" (not for long). What's that about?
Thanks for the great work!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jul 27, 2007 - 11:51pm PT
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Fantastic that you guys are replacing the bolts on Greasy but Groovy. People will soon find out that the 4th pitch is no slab. No one in their right mind would try that route with the old bolts - they must have come out easily.
Wonderful. With solid bolts, folks should be all over that one. Great work with all those routes.
Many thanks,
John Long
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 28, 2007 - 12:12am PT
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You guys are the shizzle!
Roger has always had my greatest admiration for his contributions to rebolting. He is a true iron man in every sense!
And Clint and Ryan, kudos, kudos, kudos!
and not only that, but a climbing related thread too!
You're right, John, this winter it will be hard to get on those routes for the first time in a lot of years (well, maybe not... but I'll be out there!).
Thanks again for all the work.
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Matt M
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Jul 28, 2007 - 01:35am PT
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I love these rebolting TRs! They get me psyched to do more of my own AND to get on the routes these guys are working on! Mmm slab (with good bolts of course)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Ventura
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Jul 28, 2007 - 12:09pm PT
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thankyou J.Long I've read your books..
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jul 29, 2007 - 05:49pm PT
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Clint, et al,
I'm curious about the 4th pitch of GBG. This is going back basically 30 years, but I remember that pitch having some of the hardest on-lead bolting I had ever seen or ever tried. We recruited Dale Bard to help on that pitch. That gave us Ricky, Richard, Dale and me and none of us got more than one bolt in before we had to lower off - it was so steep and torturours on the toes. Ricky took a pretty good sized whipper trying to install one of those bolts. That was the crux of the route, trying to get thosed bolts in, casting off on a run out and not seeing where the next stance was and just hoping something, some edge would magically appear. Very intimadating.
JL
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jul 29, 2007 - 07:14pm PT
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RE:
" There was loads of rust in the hole!! Apparently the moisture gets inside and can't escape to dry out."
I had a top-rope anchor bolt fail on me for the same reason - had placed the anchor maybe 2 years prior, the bolt looked almost scorched - never used silicon again.
great pics, great thread and awesome work guys!
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Duke-
Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
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Jul 29, 2007 - 07:40pm PT
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Thank you for the comunity service.
-Dirka
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 30, 2007 - 03:13am PT
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Anders,
> Umm, Clint, some of the bolts ("Xs") on the photo are marked 3/8" x 1/4" (not for long). What's that about?
Sorry about the confusion. See my edit:
X (large X) = 3/8" bolt, already replaced
 (small x) = 1/4" bolt, to be replaced shortly
> Thanks for the great work!
Thanks - I've enjoyed your rebolting photo reports (at Squamish) as well!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 30, 2007 - 03:28am PT
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John,
> Fantastic that you guys are replacing the bolts on Greasy but Groovy. People will soon find out that the 4th pitch is no slab.
Cool - it is definitely steep there. Back in the mid 80s I tried to start p3 and realized I was way out of my league - I didn't even want to run it out to the hole where the first bolt was drilled! As another Clint once said "A man's got to know his limitations!"
> No one in their right mind would try that route with the old bolts
Yeah, they were way overdue for maintenance. Good thing Roger took on the project and got everyone psyched! I led the second half of p8 on two of the original bolts, but that section is only 5.9 and I'm very lightweight! Night and day vs. p3 or p4.
> - they must have come out easily.
Yes. Due to the rust they were getting fragile. You may be able to see a small crack near the bottom of the bolt that I pulled at the top of p8.
We had to be very careful to extract them straight out of the hole. Just pounding on the tuning fork in a single direction could break off one of those bolts, so instead we used knifeblades, first in one direction, then in the opposite direction, so the bolt wouldn't get stuck against the side of the hole.
On a couple the bolt broke off in the hole while extracting. Roger tried to drill through one of those with the broken piece, and he got an oversized hole and the 3/8" bolt wouldn't tighten down properly. So he had to patch it and put in a new hole next to it.
It sounds like Dale should make it onto some version of the FA list. If you define the FA list as "who did the work", then some people can get onto it if they make a significant contribution, even if they didn't make it to the top with everyone else. It may be a bit late to change it now, but it was good that you mentioned it, so we know the richer history of the route.
Thanks for creating the route and the inspiration!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jul 30, 2007 - 10:32pm PT
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That's great that you guys spent so much time and effort to replace those bolts. If you're ever up in Hood River, stop on in to the Hood River Coffee Co. and I'll spot you a couple pounds of coffee.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Jul 30, 2007 - 11:40pm PT
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I know you guys have heard it already, and I admit I skipped most of the posts, but YOU RULE!!! BTW, I am a corporate sponsor of ASCA...
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