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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Jan 30, 2008 - 10:48am PT
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Wally did the ranch in 97.
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dave goodwin
climber
carson city, nv
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Jan 30, 2008 - 11:30am PT
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When I first saw this post I thought of Dave Mital, glad to see you post here Dave. Did not know that you visited this site.
I had the fortunate pleasure to do the Shield with Dave this summer. It was a great trip and I can vouch that Dave is no whimp up on the big stone. Just a very modest fellow who at 50+ years old he still solos El Cap. Pretty sure that before we went and did the Shield he soloed the Prow and Zodiac as warm ups for the shield this spring.
One downfall of climbing with a guy who usually solos is that you have to remind them to communicate with you. Dave just kept plugging along and kept the rope moving.
thanks Dave hope to do another wall with you this year,
thanks Dave G.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 30, 2008 - 12:27pm PT
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Mark, I am definitely overdue for another solo, not having done so for a few years. I just keep hooking up with great partners, and enjoy the camaraderie. But there's a lot to be said for being up there on your own, with nobody to account to except yourself. Man, I sure love to sleep in, drink coffee, and read some great books!
I'm trying to remember the route I was on, it might have been Lunar Eclipse or Eagle's Way, but at the time there were five soloists on five different routes on El Cap, and every one of us summitted, which defies the odds.
I am absolutely certain that Wally soloed the Ranch, because I either met him on the summit, the descent, or just after we got down. I remember his long hair, wild eyes, and super-psyched demeanour. I think he told me it took him 11 days, which back then seemed a long time to be on a wall.
"So I bet you're glad to be down, and won't be wanting to go back up on the wall anytime soon, eh?"
"Are you kidding?! I'd love to go back up right now and solo another route!"
That meeting with Wally was a huge inspiration to me, and I made my first solo of El Cap by Iron Hawk a few months later, wanting to climb a route that was longer and harder than anything I had yet done, and for which I had no other beta than Warren Hollinger telling me it was a nice route. I, um, had to come out free climbing retirement for that one....
Somewhere I have some slides of Wally on PSD which I took from a neighbouring route to the west. I'm happy to report that Kate and I took no seventy-footers on the Ranch, nor anything particularly dire as I recall. There was this other time, though, a few years before, and it wasn't even that long of a fall...
I think it should be every trad climber's goal to one day climb The Nose, and it should be every wall climber's goal to one day solo El Cap.
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BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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Sep 26, 2009 - 07:29pm PT
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Reticent wall has been soloed many times in the last few recent years. Who was the 1st to solo it?
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Sep 26, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
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To answer the question about El Cap solos in the 60's and early 70's, Royal Robbins did the first solo of an El Cap route when he did the second ascent of the Muir Wall in 1968.
Tom Bauman did the first solo of the Nose in 1969.
Bruce
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dogtown
Gym climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Sep 26, 2009 - 09:50pm PT
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Wow.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Sep 26, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
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that guy DaveTurner is sick.
I understand doing the things he does, but doing those things solo requires a different sort of person than I.
I get lonely and bored...
sometimes, when I solo...I cry at night...true story...
I am going to solo something again soon....
edit:
How the HELL do you jug this bags clipped to you. I am assuming clipped to the belay donut or something. But how does that actually work out. Do you think its actually easier than hauling!?
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Sep 26, 2009 - 10:36pm PT
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Shout out to Steve!
He did the first solo ascent of the nose in a day. That's a winner!
Steve actually has done quite the brevity of routes up there. I can't remember who has the most diverse amount. Schneider has around 130 ascents besides the solo race and he's still been climbing free routes up there the past few years.
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BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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Sep 27, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
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Did Andy K. do the 1st solo of Reticent?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 27, 2009 - 07:35pm PT
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Has to be someone with a personality disorder.
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
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Sep 27, 2009 - 09:50pm PT
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Just for the record, I believe that it's fair to point out that Tucker's back-to-back solo binges were proudly accomplished without taking a shower.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Sep 27, 2009 - 10:15pm PT
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Hey, Frank, Tucker has had Many binges without a shower.
It's all good. He doesn't seem to stink.
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mtntroll
Trad climber
pepper lake city
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Sep 27, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
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fwiw, last i herd jd did the 1st solo 1st asscent on the cap
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Sep 27, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
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Yes, he did.
Jim Dunn ROCKS.
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Brandon
Trad climber
Santa Maria, CA
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Sep 27, 2009 - 11:25pm PT
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Grant Gardner did the 1st solo of Reticent. He did it in the Spring when it rained during 50% of the days. Plus there was ice falling off the rim. During his first day of fixing, a baskeball size chunk hit the base and cut his rope and severed a shoulder strap on his backpack. I remember it being especially bold since the only other wall he had soloed was Skull Queen in a day.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 28, 2009 - 12:22am PT
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Ammon has got to be up there in the running.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Sep 28, 2009 - 12:41am PT
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i just did 3 soloes on two routes
the nose twice, the first around 88 in about 35 hours, and a couple of years later in 21:22ish for the first solo NIAD.
a couple of years later i soloed the salathe in 21:44, for the only one day on the salathe
i was basically too blonde to figure out how to haul a basg solo, so had to do push ascent soloes that required no hauling
ryan, i've only done 107 ascents of el capitan, no where near thirty, that is close to the number that hans has done it.
hans has soled the nose in a day at least twice
hans soled lurking fear, then the west face in under 24 hours, for the only solo of 2 el cap routes in a day
that's a freaking proud list by wally
pete, you are the real deal, i hope you get a partner
shipoopoi
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Sep 28, 2009 - 12:48am PT
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I like Grant a lot, but he had serious Hair issues.
Hence, the MonoDread. Fabulous, fun guy, otherwise.....
Hey, Grant, Remember all of that Makulu Brown we "cached"?
Oooops, sorry, Drift.
Steve G HAS to be WAy up there.
I mean, Hell, He's Gerberding. Sheesh.
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Frank Sanders
Trad climber
Devils Tower. Wyoming
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Sep 28, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
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So who do You consider to be the 1st female to solo the Captain?? Know that Beverly Johnson has been given credit for that, but my vote is for Susan Harrington, who TRULY did it solo.
Who would be the OLDEST person to solo El Cap??? Now that's a good one, & how old were they???
BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS
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