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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 10, 2007 - 09:42pm PT
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32 ascents by 32 routes including eight solos.
There's no place like El Cap - cheers!
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Jul 10, 2007 - 09:52pm PT
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none
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Gene
climber
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Jul 10, 2007 - 09:58pm PT
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Welcome back BMD.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jul 10, 2007 - 10:34pm PT
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I think the only ascent that really counts, soul wise, is the first one. I did the Nose with English climber, Ron Fawcett, in 72. Everthing after that felt like a repeat. Others felt otherwise. Tastes differ.
JL
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 10, 2007 - 10:40pm PT
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true dat largo ..
.. the first time up i thought i had a 50% chance of living or dying ..
.. hasn't felt like that since..
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Loom
climber
The Whiteboard Jungle
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Jul 10, 2007 - 10:53pm PT
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I forget exactly what it was that someone (Bridwell?) said to Klaus that inspired him to focus primarily on FA's--something about everything else being just wanking.
I've wanked my way up El Cap 15 times with some awesome partners. Hmm, maybe that doesn't sound quite right.
Let me see if I can remember all of them--
'92 Muir to Nose w/ Vince DePasque; '93 Salathe w/ Vince Depasque; '93 Nose w/ Vince DePasque; '95 Space w/ Steve Sutton; '96 Shield w/ Vince DePasque; '97 Zodiac w/ Linus and Roadie Steve; '98 Tangerine Trip w/ Captain Kirk; '98 Wall of Early Morning Light w/ Roadie Steve; '99 Pacific Ocean w/ Roadie Steve; '99 Mescalito w/ Pooh Bear Paul; '00 Zodiac w/ Andrew McGarry; '01 Luniac w/ Dan Oppenheim; '01 Albatross w/ Dan Oppenheim; '02 New Dawn to Tribal Rite w/ Eric George; '02 South Seas w/ Dan Oppenheim
That was a fun little stroll down memory lane--I need to get my ass back up there; nothing else has ever done such a good job of feeding the rat.
Scott
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N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
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Jul 10, 2007 - 11:08pm PT
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I've been to gray ledges Via the Muir, Moby Dick start. First time in the Valley, WOW, what a great place! I had a great time. Someday I do it again, maybe with my son or daughter?
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Owlman
Social climber
Montucky
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Jul 10, 2007 - 11:11pm PT
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In order:
Zodiac (83), with Bill Thomas and Hood Man
Muir (85), with Bill Thomas and Mike Zambon
Lurking Fear (85) solo
Zodiac (89) solo
Eagles Way (2000) with Bam Bam
Tangerine Trip (2005) with Texas Bob
Two flailures: Mescalito and Lunar Elclipse.
Just turned 48 and still got plans.
I think T-trip and Muir have been my favorites so far.
Muir was like a Wilderness of rock. It rained, snowed, and the sun blazed in the final huge dihedral. The first ascent party was down to a few pieces of dried fruit at the end.
oooohhhh!
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Loom
climber
The Whiteboard Jungle
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Jul 10, 2007 - 11:18pm PT
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I've had the same experience Largo.
My first time up was the most intense, affecting and genuine. Every time after that was a little less so.
It was like chasing after and trying to re-capture some intense drug experience or first love. I remember that I read Lord Jim at the bivies, determined that I would not abandon ship and hide in shame on some backwater island. I've re-read the book since then, but it too wasn't as affecting an experience as reading it for the first time on my first El Cap route.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Jul 10, 2007 - 11:40pm PT
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10 ascents by 9 routes.
First was the wildest.
Brutus
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humblepie
climber
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Jul 13, 2007 - 04:26pm PT
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pete, do you have a list of your ascents, dates, partners, etc. on the net. it's very interesting. thanks, D
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 13, 2007 - 04:42pm PT
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Yeah I'm with Largo, Brutus, Loom, and no doubt others, on this. Once you do it once, and know you can do it, it changes, (kinda like some other things) none the less, there are still landmarks, as you go on.
I did the first season ascent of The Zod, in 83(?) after Slater and,?, had done a major clean up of fixed stuff the last ascent of the fall before. It was my first wall as head nailer, and my partner's first time up the cap; (no tiny cams, sticky rubber, or a bunch of other, newfangaled, stuff) Later, he told me he was scared the whole time. We only had 70 biners.
Your first has the most mojo, but there is still adventure to be had!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jul 13, 2007 - 04:55pm PT
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Once, the Salathe, with Alan Bard, in the early 70s.
Two additional attempts: West Face solo and the Nose with a client (both mid-70s).
Hey Kevin, do you remember what year Alan and I climbed the Salathe? I cannot remember.
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Pierre
Big Wall climber
Sweden
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Jul 13, 2007 - 05:41pm PT
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18 so far..
-the most memorable was climbing "realm of the flying monkeys" in a push with only 70 oz of water, did that with erica kutcher..
-the most beautiful has to be "sunkist"..
-the hardest for me must be "zenyatta mondatta"..
-the fastest is "zodiac" in 12.5 hours..
-the most fun climb is probably "the shield", done it twice..
-my only solo is "tangerine trip" before the retro-bolting..
-so many memories..
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Rudyj2
Trad climber
UT
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Jul 13, 2007 - 06:40pm PT
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3 and a 1/3.
First attempt in April '93 on the Muir. Made the Heart and just couldn't fathom how much wall was still above us, or maybe it was the constant rain and ice falling off the wall, no it was the size of the wall, and bailed.
Tangerine Trip in Oct '96. Got a little better in between attempts, but the smaller route helped.
The Nose in March '04. Only party on the Nose, seemed like the only party on the wall or even in the valley.
Lurking Fear in Oct '06. Most memorable time up the Captain as I was the senior partner on this one. Unfortunatly our experience was marred by the accidental amputation of part of my partners pinky finger.
Fall '08. Back for the Muir, hopefully.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 13, 2007 - 08:39pm PT
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Hey--i'd rec mescalito over the muir, but that's just me.
Pierre, we saw you guys on the way (near LF) and off the wall back in the meadow. Some big truck almost ran you guys over as you were crossing the road (barefoot). Great effort, my condolences.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 13, 2007 - 08:52pm PT
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Why should anyone go up that wall El Cap?
What to speak of multiple times.
There's nothin up there.
Like the tourist in the meadow asked me if I'd been up there?
"Nope not me, I'm not crazy like those climbers"
Yep he said: "They're nuts"
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 13, 2007 - 08:56pm PT
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I did my first El Cap route with WB!
Would've died up there without his wisdom and sh#t....heh heh
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jul 13, 2007 - 09:11pm PT
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OK. It took me a minute to remember the full sequence but here it is, in order:
Mescalito.
By then I had nearly 30 years in climbing, mostly free routes. I will never forget walking up to the Captain that morning. We had the first few pitches fixed and were going to blast off. I felt something I had not felt in years, that intense feeling of anticipation, where every breath drawn is precious. Guess I was scared or something.
Thanks Rob.
Rob Brown, Capitan of The Bismark...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 13, 2007 - 09:57pm PT
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do the free blast, east butress, and west face count? all most excellent adventures. someday i gotta write a book....
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