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theoncler
Big Wall climber
yosemite
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Sep 17, 2004 - 03:47pm PT
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hey dedbro, zam, and gene, who are you two thinking that you can push your influence on others? if you haven't noticed, all routes change over time. every route on el cap is not the same from what the FA's first encountered. are you bitching about that? is the nose or the zod the same even from a year ago, NO! so why do you care if this route changes? sure it is a little more drastic than blown pin scars over time, but so what. it is still the mechanically defacing of rock. you guys think you're purists or something? your sh*&t don't stink?
once BY is redone, it is going to be a new route. new experience. so give it a rest and let it be.
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Gene
Social climber
Two hours away
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Sep 17, 2004 - 03:51pm PT
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hey dedbro, zam, and gene, who are you two...
Theoncler,
Run out of toes?
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ct
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 17, 2004 - 03:54pm PT
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If you are really doing this in good faith, aren't just trying to troll for outraged responses and stir up a bunch of criticism, I can put you in touch with Dave Yerian. I think he would like to be notified that you plan to add bolts and color code his route.
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theoncler
Big Wall climber
yosemite
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Sep 17, 2004 - 03:56pm PT
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gene, just trying to make a point that you and all others have no right to criticize other's projects. thats all.
if you dont like the way things are happening outside, then maybe you should just stay climbing in the gym.
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Gene
Social climber
Two hours away
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Sep 17, 2004 - 04:00pm PT
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"just trying to make a point that you and all others have no right to criticize other's projects. thats all."
just trying to make a point that you and all others have no right to change other's projects. thats all.
Still, I am really enjoying you and Stu's troll.
Gene
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ct
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 17, 2004 - 04:07pm PT
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the oncler: 'gene, just trying to make a point that you and all others have no right to criticize other's projects. thats all.'
Gene, I agree, smells like a troll, looks like a troll, must be a...
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theoncler
Big Wall climber
yosemite
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Sep 17, 2004 - 04:10pm PT
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ok, just to perhaps bring a little understanding to all this;
regardless as to the nature of the route, anyone going up can choose to climb it in the manner they so choose. just because bolts are there doesn't mean you need to clip them. if you want to climb it with runout and a asspucker factor of 9, then do it. but the option is going to be present for those who do want to protect it all the way up?
dont like clipping bolts, cool dont. but dont get in the way of those that want to feel secure as they climb.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Sep 17, 2004 - 04:52pm PT
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Stu,
Too bad your energies are spent trolling. I could really have used some more help replacing the bolts on Hairline this past August.
Brutus
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mark
climber
yosemite
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Sep 17, 2004 - 08:44pm PT
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Disco Stu just wants to say this......about 90% of you are Morons. You waste your time spewing about something that is a joke. Spreading Negitive energy. I enjoyed the laugh from all you kooks who thought this was real. "color code" Bachar said it was ok, every 5 feet. Let me clearly say this so the 90% of you understand....YOU ARE STUPID!!! I mean do you really know how stupid you are? DO YOU? All you kooks spend your time and energy spweing negitive sh#t. Mine was all positive. It put a smile on my face, gave me a laugh, as well I know there are ALOT of people out there that got a grreat laugh as well. Its all you kooks that took it serious that need help..........
Life is too short, too much fun. I mean really how serious can you take it...its not perminate.
Back away, not today, disco lady......Disco Stu has some climbing to do :)
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Gene
Social climber
Two hours away
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Sep 17, 2004 - 09:29pm PT
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Shit! What am I gonna do with the 35 quickdraws I ordered today? This sucks.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 17, 2004 - 09:30pm PT
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I really can't believe this thread is anything but a big troll, but, for those who really take it seriously and want to crank BY without the stress, it shouldn't take much beta to figure out how to climb Shagadelic and hike over and fix a couple lines down and top rope the dang thing on the way down.
No stress, you'd hardly ever be in anybody's way, pure knob pulling satisfaction.
You can have it either way, bold or safe. Why start a war so that you can have the illusion of boldness by "leading" it with better pro?
Peace
karl
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Gene
Social climber
Two hours away
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Sep 17, 2004 - 09:33pm PT
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pure knob pulling satisfaction
'nuff said.
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dedbro
Trad climber
joshua tree,ca.
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Sep 17, 2004 - 10:12pm PT
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your are still a jackass discosuk.
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mark
climber
yosemite
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Sep 17, 2004 - 10:51pm PT
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ct, dedbro, ksolem, chico...you all need to get a personality. I mean everyone else is laughing at you, you sould at least laugh at yourself. And if you can't laugh at yourself.... refer to the previous statement, don't take life too serious, its not forever. Have a laugh and a good time. Don't go around with a bolt in your a*#.....And yo, brick. you were the first one. And i give you credit. But it would be lame only if nobody took the bait. the these kook took it good. They didn't even flounder after the color coding idea. Even after I said bachar said it was ok, they still were holding on......hahaha
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mark
climber
yosemite
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Sep 17, 2004 - 10:52pm PT
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ct, dedbro, ksolem, chico...you all need to get a personality. I mean everyone else is laughing at you, you sould at least laugh at yourself. And if you can't laugh at yourself.... refer to the previous statement, don't take life too serious, its not forever. Have a laugh and a good time. Don't go around with a bolt in your a*#.....And yo, brick. you were the first one. And i give you credit. But it would be lame only if nobody took the bait. the these kook took it good. They didn't even flounder after the color coding idea. Even after I said bachar said it was ok, they still were holding on......hahaha
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mark
climber
yosemite
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Sep 17, 2004 - 10:52pm PT
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ct, dedbro, ksolem, chico...you all need to get a personality. I mean everyone else is laughing at you, you sould at least laugh at yourself. And if you can't laugh at yourself.... refer to the previous statement, don't take life too serious, its not forever. Have a laugh and a good time. Don't go around with a bolt in your a*#.....And yo, brick. you were the first one. And i give you credit. But it would be lame only if nobody took the bait. the these kook took it good. They didn't even flounder after the color coding idea. Even after I said bachar said it was ok, they still were holding on......hahaha
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Sep 18, 2004 - 10:22am PT
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as someone once said on this forum....
"Troll-la-lo-la-lo-la-troll-troll-troll"
Or something like.
Just curious, has the B/Y ever ben simulclimbed? I mean, it's still 5.11 A0, right? (the belays are hanging)
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Chico
Trad climber
Mt. Shasta, CA
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Sep 18, 2004 - 04:21pm PT
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Well done Disco Stu, you sneaky little devil you! You totally got me. I'm so relieved that this entire thread was just a big steaming pile bullsh#t. From the get-go I was thinking...who is this jackass?, why would anyone do something so stupid? But you know, there are alot of loose cannons out there, and you just never know what some people are schemeing to do.Yummm, crow tastes good!
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mark
climber
yosemite
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Sep 18, 2004 - 10:14pm PT
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hey brick, I was giving you a compliment. I wasn't bagging on you. And were not the same. I have no idea who that kook is. Disco Stu doesn't want someone cramping my dance floor. But seriously bro, you were smart enough to know. Now Disco Stu has gotta go.......
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Philippe Batoux
Mountain climber
Annecy France
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Sep 19, 2004 - 07:44am PT
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This route is known all over the world for being a mental testpiece . Transforming it in a sport route like all the others is stupid. In France we have many problems like this, many sport climbers want to bolt most of the routes, it's a pitty. Some first climbers broke the bolts in their routes, after they were retrobolted.
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