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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
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What's My Line? at Cochise was pretty amazing. It's like a football field that is half covered by chickenheads. To give the photo scale, there is a climber in the top right of the photo.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
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I don't have a photo, but the first pitch of Humanality in Thailand was pretty unusual. It's a 60+' tree that you climb to get to the rock. The 3rd pitch of that route is pretty crazy too (where you transfer over to the stalactite).
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:53pm PT
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more monkey than funky felt "unusual"
linking all the chimneys on the RNWFoHD
the fisher/beck pitch on the EBofLCR
another vote for on the lamb as well
EDIT
Thank God Ledge is pretty unusual too
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blr
climber
socal
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:02pm PT
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Skinny Dip in Jtree is pretty weird.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
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I'm going with the sea of giant plates on the Wasteland at Cochise
and Owl Rock in Arches--reminded me of climbing stacked excericise balls
Edit: second on Skinny Dip. (If I remember, Largo once squeezed himself through that thing.)
Edit again: one night at Hueco, five of us wedged in the Devils butt hole. Then one guy cuts loose on his didgeridoo. Out-of-body, I tell ya.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:16pm PT
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Never been there but heard interesting things about the devils butthole in hueco. From what I understand this is like climbing up a vertical tube that stops at some point, then you down climb. My friend Jeff told me Verm took him there and had made him pound a few beers and then do it without a headlamp. Not knowing when to stop and without light, Jeff made one last move and almost knocked himself out hitting his head at the top. Said it really stunk up there from all the stale air.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
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Bouldered a hand crack on the back side of the Colossus of Memnon on the west bank of the Nile outside Luxor.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
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Skinny Dip in Jtree is pretty weird.
When I'd seen that Largo did the FA, I thought, no sweat, if he can fit, so can I (we're near the same size...certainly not stature...ha ha).
Not even close. He musta done that thing when he was 12...
Tunnel Vision, yeah, pretty cool. Also Black Dagger is similar. Ditto the North Ridge of Steeple in the Windys when you disappear inside the mountain, and re-appear near the summit. Crazy.
Heffalump Trap at Castle Rock in Idaho. Goes through a cool hole.
Did a route in the Devoluy (sp?) in France. Chimney up a dark slot that went deeper into the mountain for two pitches. Then, stem out bomb bay and up into the light again. Right at the end of it, I stepped up and back onto the floor in front of me, only to have it collapse and leave me hanging, barely, by my hands. Eeek.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Feb 25, 2011 - 06:04pm PT
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Nutjob
Goat Rock Overhang at Castle Rocks is pretty amazing stuff. Somebody must have pics of that one.
At your service.....
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 25, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
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The shot and move that Hooblie was referring to:
The FA was done by a(nother) small guy who straight-on "power" mantled it--I did the second ascent the way that Tom is attempting it in the photo...
edit: the weird/crux part is digging in your heels like a bucking bronc for the set up move, and trying not to bruise ribs while rotating backwards in a somersault fashion:-)
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 25, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
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Charlotte has some wierd stuff for sure. I always thought Saucer full of Secrets on Dome Rock was cool. It looks blank at times, but every time you move up a nice little pocket seems to appear.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Feb 25, 2011 - 07:03pm PT
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Middendorf's written description of the wormholes high up on Trango has always stuck with me. So weird, so high, so unimaginable.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 25, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
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Jaybro, have you ever climbed that pyramid that is a monument to some railroad guy that is across the interstate from Vedauwoo. I know I have a picture somewhere.
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soaring_bird
Trad climber
Oregon
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Feb 25, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
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The rotten log pitch on Royal Arches was unusual, as was the Gendarme at Seneca Rocks, WV. Both are long gone. New Diversions and Chicken Pie are also fun and unique. The Hollow Flake pitch (Salathe) and the Thank God Ledge traverse on HD are one-of-kind as well. There are many.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Feb 25, 2011 - 09:08pm PT
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Without a doubt: 'Hot Dog in a Bun', at Split Rock. Joshua Tree. Stemming, chicken wings, heel-toe, gastons, foot-scissoring. But its not an offwidth, its not a chimney, and its not a dihedral.
stolen from MP.com
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Feb 25, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
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Probably the north face of Teewinot in the Tetons. Near the top there is an ice coated tunnel that goes through the mountain and exits on the south face. From the cold, dark north face you can look through the tunnel and see a warm and friendly Jackson Hole. Didn't actually go through the tunnel, but paused for the view. ca1956
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 26, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
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The first pitch of Magnolia Thunderpussy gets all the hype due to its awesome geometry,
But the second pitch "pussy" is pretty unusual, as is the third, where you are "birthed" through the hole on to the summit.
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MisterE
Social climber
MEEPMEEPmeepMEEP
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Feb 26, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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Definitely "Mines of Moria" at Smith Rock. You need a headlamp to find gear placements and holds. From the new guide description:
5.8 R **. Nothing at Smith compares to this claustrophobic chimney. Jam and stem to a roof and say goodbye to daylight as you enter an eerie chimney behind a missing section of column. Squirm towards the light high above and follow another hidden chimney to the top of the cliff.
From the internet:
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Feb 26, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
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Another Thailand Climb, Tarzan, 5.9 is an approach pitch to the fantastic "Humanality" which also has a bizarre surprising pitch.
But Tarzan is basically climbing this wild tree with some tied off limbs.
Later, on Humanality, you reach this blankish face that looks 5.11 when the climb is only 10b or so. You're confused for a long time until you look way behind you and see a huge stalagtite is hanging down just close enough to stem to.
Peace
Karl
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Brandon-
climber
Done With Tobacco
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Feb 26, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
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The potato patch comes to mind...
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