First Ascent of the Prow

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steveA

Trad climber

bedford,massachusetts

Feb 22, 2009 - 01:40pm PT

Did the 2nd ascent the following April. The valley was getting hit by continuous storms and I couldn't get anyone to go on a wall. I was young and impatient, so I decided to do the Prow solo. I'll never forget that experience! It was A4 at that time, and I remember zippering an entire pitch, when just a few feet from a bomber placement, I stupidly nailed a pin in an expanding flake. I must of fallen 80 feet. John Dill,( before he was involved with Yosar), was watching me thru a spotting scope, and told me later that I went completely out of his view when I fell. I went back up, not making the same mistake twice. I did the belly crawl, to a great bivy, under an overhang, just before a big storm hit. I was perfectly dry all night, and real happy, knowing I would be off next day. Got hit by another storm one pitch from the top. I remember the hail going down my sleeves into my armpits and hoping the lightning wouldn't zap me as I was freeing up the last pitch.
Later that summer, I was in the Tetons hanging out at the climbers ranch. I was talking to Ivon Chouinard and Royal Robbins
pulled up with his wife Liz. Robbins rolled down the window and the first words out of Chouinards mouth were, " Royal, your all washed up-this kid just soloed your route". Robbins got real pissed and pointed his finger at Ivon and fired back," you wait-youl see", and then he drove off. Many years later, I met a much more mellow Royal back East, who I'm sure forgot the incedent.

the kid

Trad climber

fayetteville, wv

Feb 22, 2009 - 04:12pm PT

this is a super classic line, regardless of the pin scars...

i did this route with my high school buddy and big wall partner, Rick Lovelace in 1986. This was the first wall that we had "done in a day" and it was a memorable experience to say the least!
We got on a big wall binge and ended up doing 5 walls in 6 weeks.

KS

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2009 - 11:20pm PT

Prow'd bump!

dee ee

Mountain climber

citizen of planet Earth

Nov 9, 2009 - 06:04pm PT

1993
Jonny was "sick" so I got to lead every pitch except one!!
Matt took pics and cleaned all pitches. This is the only pic I got from the ascent.

Hmmm- I'm lookin' a bit squinty eyed.

the kid

Trad climber

fayetteville, wv

Nov 9, 2009 - 07:04pm PT

these are all great stories that tie us together!
I did the prow in a day on sight with rick lovelace. It was both of our first one day nail ups and got us on a 4 route el cap binge right after our send. that was 1986 and one of my best years of climbing and adventure..
kurt

Gunkie

Trad climber

East Coast US

Nov 9, 2009 - 08:23pm PT

I guided the climb during the summer of 2001. We jumped on it the morning after a series of thunderstorms, which cooled everything down for a couple of days. We had the route to ourselves. It was great.

neebee

Social climber

calif/texas

Nov 9, 2009 - 09:28pm PT

hey there gunkie... oh MY! i can well imagine, during thunderstorms... whewwww....

sure do appreaciate the beauty, after the fact...
thanks for the imaginative share... :)

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2010 - 12:32pm PT

Rainy Day Bump!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 12:29pm PT

Prow'd Bump...

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2012 - 02:56pm PT

Emerald Solo Bump...

Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber

Retired to Appalachia

Feb 12, 2012 - 03:20pm PT

Winter ascent of the Prow between Christmas and New Years 1983 with Bill Crouse. There were a lot of fixed RURPs in place at the time. We had great weather.

The Larry

climber

Moab, UT

Feb 12, 2012 - 03:32pm PT

Great route. I did it back in '01 I think, with a Valley n00b.
It was his first wall.The plan was to swap leads, but after he
pulled the first A1 piece and decked I decided to lead and haul
all the pitches.

He dropped my swiss army knife but made up for it by opening
the cans with a hammer and modified hook. He clipped a piss
bottle on top of the haul bag with all the water which I
touched to my lips before realizing what it was. Lucky I
didn't take a chug.

Good memories.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 03:35pm PT

Yearly bump...

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Feb 10, 2013 - 05:10pm PT

i did the prow rope solo in 1998
just last year me and Dave katz climbed it.
felt good to see how much i forgot about the route. still is a badd ass wall route for it's size and location. me and dave took our time and had alot of fun on it smok'n and drink'n!

briham89

Big Wall climber

san jose, ca

Feb 10, 2013 - 07:36pm PT

Thanks for the bump! Prow was my first wall last year. That was a great read, funny and sad how much easier it is now.

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Feb 13, 2013 - 11:54pm PT

this is the only thing i did'nt like about the prow.
the last haul set up on the prow.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
it would be nice to see those two pine tree's on the top live their life.
please set up ur haul on something else.
hopefully some yosemite local's put some bolts there.
super fun/spread out bivy!

dee ee

Mountain climber

citizen of planet Earth

Feb 14, 2013 - 09:32pm PT

I remember the Prow as the one of the funnest walls I ever did (93). I got to lead all pitches except one and they were all exposed strait forward and sweet, almost all clean. What a great line, seams out in the middle of a blank arete. I remember all the hoopla surrounding the FA. I also remember the Graham/Sorenson epic during a period of way bad weather, also in the late '70's. Those of us on the valley floor were mega concerned (Easter?).

Way fun, and we didn't almost die on the descent like I almost did on my S. Face solo in the '70's.