Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
|
|
Great TR. I climbed this in June 1985 with Stretch; it was his first wall and a great one at that. I believe it was maybe the 4 or 5th ascent, we had a great time Hendrix music non stop on the BUBA DECK, too things I remember the most, one,looking over my right sholder watching Warner leading every pitch some with no pro with a swami, this was very impressive, the second was Demetri Barton telling me about some free climbing before Eagles nest, well I freed pitch 10. the wide stuff and the A3+ I remember to this day the dyno of my life to the most BOMBER edge at Eagles Nest Ledge a mantel and it was over. When Stretch meet up with me on the ledge he brought it to my attention that I was some 35+ feet run out from my only #4 Friend we had, I real didn’t need to know that because if the lip of the Ledge was a sloper I may not be here to share this, Man this makes my hands sweat just typing this. I rated this pitch 10, At 5.11c onsight no falls! Stretch was a great partner, he went on to do Cosmos after this. I lost touch with him he has all the photos, anyone know were he is I would love to see the photos & post..
I noticed the TR. showing the guy on Eagels Nest Ledge with the three cracks the corner is the one I onsighted with no falls the A3+ section the outher two cracke are very over hanging. notice the sharp edge on the ledge above.
|
|
Erik Sloan
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
|
Sweet! I'll get that free rating in the new topo.
cheers
e
|
|
Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
|
|
Nanook, I just made a corection it's pitch 10 not 11 sorry.
Note, I think Tommy coldwell or some new age super fly cold maybe free this thing, all but maybe that roof pitch and the second?
cheers,
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
"I love my new Canon powershot sd800--so small I carry in my front pocket on lead."
Yup, I found myself taking mine on lead and it made a huge difference in what shots I got.
Nice TR!
Peace
Karl
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!