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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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you bastards. i might have to make my first climbing trip back to yosemite since 1989. was there for six hours in '96, but heat and crowds sent us to san diego.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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found the route name...
Tears of Joy
150' route
had quarters back in early 90s.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Rodger, what a scream! You get the Good Sam award, for sure!
I'm curious, there was a "new" route over by the start of GBG, 9 or 10 bolts in 90' up to an anchor, 5.9 or .10a? I thought this was the start of GBG retrobolted, but perhaps it's something else?
I thank you for your work, on the hottest days of the year too boot.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Kelly,
Yea, we had to sort a few things out in this area. We decided that this was a newer sport route and is actually about 10' or so to the right of GBG. GBG goes up the more featured rock a bit left of this route. Also to the right of this route is the route Surf Nazi. 1987 Meyers/ Reid guide shows no bolts on the first pitch of GBG, also no bolts at the first pitch anchor. 1994 Reid/Meyers shows 5 bolts to a no bolt anchor. The original George Meyers guide shows no bolts to a 1 bolt anchor. We were a bit disapointed not to find any evedence of any first pitch anchor for GBG. Every spot we thought "maybe here" showed no pin scars, missing bolt signs, nothing. We found signs of recent activity in the area and in the area above(places cleaned out to accept cams, etc. new 1/4" bolts on new hangers with no markings) but no trace of where the original top of the 1st pitch of GBG was. After talking to a local who says he had just completed a new route in the area it was decided not to upgrade any of these new bolts/hangers. More recent work was noted above and to the right of the fifth pitch of GBG and was assumed to be a part of this new route. If Clint would have had more time before his Canada trip, it would have been nice to have been able to look over the Caldrewood/Dixon route from the top of the terrace to the final headwall. Put up in 1960 it would surely be ready to have its bolts/hangers replaced. So yea, GBG in its original form is alive and well. Nothing found added and nothing found to have been removed. Except where the old bolts broke, all replacement bolts went in where the old bolts came out. Its just waiting for you,
Roger Brown
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Matt M
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA (Temp in San Antonio for Yr)
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If Mid-Cathedral North Apron routes aren't doable (lots to do over there at some point though!) - I too support
A) Glacier Point Climbs - Cold Fusion? Sailin Shoes? What are the bolts like on Misty Beethoven?
B) 2nd the Moderates on Half Dome - Deuceldike (two bolt belays now?) Eye in the Sky, Snake Dance. Autobahn/Fast Lane (Harder so not as much traffic but it would be great to know if you made the hike up to do it - they're not 1/4in anymore)
A Huge Debt is owed to Roger B and crew. I'll be sure to shake his hand and buy a beer if I ever run into you! -
ASCA award anyone?
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Mungeclimber;
Thanks for the information. I will have a look at "Tears of Joy". Quicksilver? Thats on the list! If I could just get to the top of "Freewheeling" there is a lot of stuff that could be fixed. One fixed rope to the top of "Black Primo" another fixed to the top of "Orange Peel" and one more at "Exodus". Yea!! Thats what I'm talking about. Just one day of fun work for the right bunch of climbers and the entire "North Apron" could have all its old bolts replaced this season. Well maybe we won't get to it this year, maybe not next year, but it will happen.
Roger Brown
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Thanks for the updates on Arches Terrace. Clint, are you going to draw up a new topo for the area ;-)
I'm gonna try to shake loose some time for Middle Apron climbing. I get chills thinking about Black Primo, Orange Peal, and the like...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2008 - 10:45pm PT
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Hey Chris, since you're around. Any memories or photos of Shakey Flakes that you care to share?
Cheers,
Steve
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Kurt Reider, Dave Diegleman and I did Shakey Flakes with back in the day.
Kurt hauled a cheap ghetto blaster up the route so the focused leader could stay inspired with Jagger or Jerry Blasting in the backround. I'm not sure having the Stones at full volume actually did help but we did get up the thing.
Next time, I think I'll go without the box.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Chalk bags photo shopped out????
LOL they SAID it was a chalkless ascent. Good for them!
Sounds like a great route, wish I could go try it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2008 - 12:02pm PT
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Yup, I'm a white faced liar. Everybody knows that. My rack caddy has to remove all traces of my powdered indiscretion or I beat him mercilessly. LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2008 - 11:06am PT
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Shakey bump for FA tales.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
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Still Shakey on those Flakes....
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pimp daddy wayne
climber
The Bat Caves
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:03am PT
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Nice Pictures man!
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Jan 31, 2008 - 09:03am PT
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As usual, great stuff, Steve.
Thanks for posting!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2008 - 10:54am PT
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Now if I can get a story out of Chris to round this out......
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
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Talked to Chris and he claimed little recollection of Shakey Flakes from the FA. Great route with the new steel!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 27, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
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This is a most interesting Thread. I didn't realize the huge endeavor that Roger and Clint and many others have undertaken to replace bolts in the Valley. All those wild routes in the Arches area!!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2009 - 11:02am PT
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Nothing but Fallen Arches and the Terrace BITD! Huge job redrilling those routes...Thanks guys!
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