A Thread for 5.8

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 273 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jul 2, 2009 - 08:19pm PT

My son & I drove home over Tioga Pass a month or so ago, after the Steve/Mimi nuptials, and just had to stop and climb something in the Meadows. Drawing on fuzzy memories, we scampered up 5.8 Truck n' Drive on Lembert 32 years after I'd last done it. I was glad to see upgraded bolts on the route, though those pesky stainless hangers are a lot harder to spot in the distance than old rusty Leepers.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jul 2, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
Here's a 5.8
Not for the 5.8 leader
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
donini:
Want to have serious fun? Spend a day climbing "only" 5.8 in the Gunks.

Oh yeah. Leading classic Gunks 5.8 on sight feels like a mini adventure. F'rinstance Airy Aria,
linking the first two pitches.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
Different climb, oddly similar perspective -- Main Line (5.8) in the Gunks.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
Also in the Near Trapps, Eastertime Too.

perswig

climber
Jul 2, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
What, Short Order's an .8? So much for my early-season stoke.
Hope the Book's still at least 5.9? Please? My ego needs it.

(Really, only the awkward left reach off the funky cam mid-pitch seemed tricky. I'd vote for 5.8+ :))
perswig

climber
Jul 2, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
I'd have to offer up P1 of Chitlin's Corner (Precipice) and Gargoyle (S. Bubble) in Acadia as great climbs at the grade.

Dale
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Jul 2, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
Any of you 5.8 leaders want to do an FA come on up to Tahoe and Shakespeare has close too 100 5.8 ish FA's. Bring your sack.....I'll lead my share.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2009 - 11:12am PT
What, Short Order's an .8?

Funny, I first climbed Truckin' Drive (upthread) and Short Order in the same season
(1982), and thought they were similar difficulty, say 5.8+, and psychological "type"
(thin face with spaced-out bolts). Both real fun climbs.

Don't know what the consensus is about Short Order now. As with a lot of 5.8s, the
leader should try hard not to fall.

As for the Book of Solemnity (5.9+), first time I did that I thought it would be 10a in
Eldo. Likewise the 2nd pitch of Chitlins Corner, which was 5.9+ in my guidebook.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2009 - 11:18am PT
One more Gunks 5.8: the first pitch of Main Line. Guidebook calls this pitch 5.7 (the
second, upthread, contains the 5.8) but when we climbed it the first pitch was soaking
wet and seemed harder.

Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 3, 2009 - 11:47am PT
5.8.

Photo by Blitzo.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jul 3, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
This is an infamous 5.8 in Taylor Canyon, Gunnison. Left Hand is one of those sequence dependent cracks that kicks you out and feels like 5.10 until you figure it out.

Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 4, 2009 - 01:17pm PT




Photos by Blitzo.
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 4, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
Tork, What is that?

Awesome photo!!!
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 4, 2009 - 02:41pm PT
That looks good!
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jul 4, 2009 - 03:26pm PT




Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 4, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
Photo by Blitzo.

Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 4, 2009 - 04:32pm PT
Photo by Blitzo.
richross

Trad climber
Jul 4, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
Me following Bonnie's Roof,Gunks.

Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Jul 5, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
Awesome pics guys! Thanks.

Cheers,

Doug
Messages 41 - 60 of total 273 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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