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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A little Death and Transfiguration featuring Roger Briggs from the very beginning. Fourth Flatiron classic.
From Climb by Godfrey and Chelton 1977
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WBraun
climber
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Great cut loose shots Steve. Death and Transfiguration nice route name too.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I have lots of climbing images all told. Too much fun digging around for the next one and kicking up the past.
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Wes Allen
Boulder climber
KY
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He proposed on one of the flatirons, married last Saturday with them in the background...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 10:54pm PT
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OK, there's lots of real cool steep stone in the Flatirons to be sure,
Like that Death & Transfig jobber that Grossman posted in B&W just upthread.
Super cool to be sure and historically relevant and all cool moves and tradlike & suchwise!
Below, on the cover of Rossiter's outa print guidebook,
Is a good look at a "modern" sport climber swath of Rock:
...so sumthin' fer everyone!
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 10:55pm PT
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Yup, Sumthin fer All Everybody’s Mind-Body.
I'm currently more so entangled in the more slabby Festive Flatiron Fluff,
Like the jaunty East Face of Seal Rock:
(detail from Rossiter's book)
Me and the wifey wife, back in the big year 2000, rompin’ that thing:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 10:56pm PT
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Lisa, AKA Super Girl, standin’ on the tippy top of Seal Rock:
She’s showin’ like, some Croftian jowls in this summit snap:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 10:57pm PT
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On the rappel descent, you get to ogle a wicked trad test piece,
Done by Achey & Briggs back in ’82,
The fierce and far-runout Archeopteryx:
I think it goes up the black streak, with no protection bolts, just a drilled pin belay near the roof...
(somebody get that Hankster on the blower...)
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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cool
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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First and foremost, congratulations to the Newlyweds! Mighty grand spot to tie the knot and you two look marvelous.
Ever done the 5.8 route on Satan's Slab with the bolts placed in the cobbles?
Archeopteryx looks like a runaway train! How hard?
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 09:17am PT
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Ditto on the happy couple and best wishes for connubial bliss!
That is a cool shot of the betrothed in front of the 1st Flatiron.
Hmm, 'never seen the bolted cobbles Steve...
Seal Rock's Archeopteryx,
From Rossiter's guide: such nice drawings.
I'm thinking this was on-sighted.
Where's Hankster when we need 'im?
...Not a gangster, just a prankster.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Thanks Roy,
What is the s/vs rating about? Scary/very scary? A few more pics from Climb to assist the morning coffee.
The Northwest Passage on the Third.
And the ever popular and very memorable Maiden. Jiggy on up the easy way and treat yourself to arguably the coolest rappel in the land!
Cleve McCarty photo.
Dale Johnson in the thick of it on the Northwest Overhang FA while others enjoy the show.
Dale got the funk...
And lastly some ole school funky teamwork to get past the tricky bits!
Ya got me????
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 10:07am PT
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Lotta history there Steve.
North West Passage is a cool excercise; we did it by combining with the Direct North Face, which means we did a nice longer line, but missed some of the historically relevent features of that climb...
N Face of the 3rd Flatiron:
The line of DNF, finishing with the roof on NW Passage:
This made for some good crack climbing on the lower section, a starightforward left facing diehedral in the middle, and an airy headwall pitch getting to the roof.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 10:16am PT
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I don't have any personal experience with Archeopteryx Steve, other than rapelling sraight down it. It is a relatively crackless face, with maybe some water chute features which might take a mid/large size cam, maybe some gear higher up.
Perhaps Jello or Oli know something, ot Matt Samet. It has a rep for sure, as a run out test piece. Roger Briggs says the whole face feels to him like "The Diamond" (Longs Peak) of The Flatirons.
It certainly is one stimulating looking swath of rock and the runout is fierce.
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 11:01am PT
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Here's a classy and somewhat under heralded route from 1963,
Rogue's Arete on Overhang Rock, done by Kor & Ament:
The climbing is steep and thrilling in spots, with a single bolt at a slabby crux. There is a lot a stuff out there that was freed in Kroenhoffers, which turns out to be plenty technical and very rewarding.
I grew up in Taquitz & Yosemite and it was most often both revealing and rewarding to do stuff which had been freed during the Golden Age, and likewise to be so instructed as to the acrobatic utility evidenced by those guys in their efforts.
Colorado is rich with cool historically significant climbs, many of which are not forgotten, but not so popular, plenty stout and well worth a look.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 10, 2007 - 11:53am PT
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Mouth watering shots Roy. It's a parralel universe in CO. Haven't spent much time there since the early seventies but lots to sample and taste with a strong historical flavor. Lucky place to be and you are soaking in it!
Cheers
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 10:40pm PT
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You know it dude,
This place has some terrain to knock around in.
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 10:42pm PT
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Managed some more slabbaneering yesterday,
Dinosaur Mtn:
We headed for 3 summits,
Red Devil, to The Box, then up Fum.
All 3 crags on the right side of the pic:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 10:47pm PT
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Goatboy gaining the first pitch of Red Devil:
A rare vert moment on a Flatiron east face for Tarbousier:
Goatster followin up:
And Rollin' up on top of Red Devil, headed for The Box:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 10:49pm PT
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From the summit of The Box,
Looking out toward "Fum"; of Fee Fi Fo & Fum:
And the final prance, up Fum:
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