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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Apr 12, 2007 - 10:44pm PT
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great story Chappy and I for one really appreciate your candor.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 12, 2007 - 10:46pm PT
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And ....
Then there is "Dog Dick Cliff" near the finger lickin cliff area.
Another classic Warbler area.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Apr 12, 2007 - 10:51pm PT
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Thanks RayDog. Hey guys, am I really toast?? Melissa are you and Jay going to make it?
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 12, 2007 - 10:57pm PT
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Toast! A toast to your future.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 12, 2007 - 11:28pm PT
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Didn't have many shots from that trip, and what I did have ain't too good, but here's a couple from November '93...
My buddy Bill leading Jawbone...
Bill on Snatch Power...
...and again on Snatch Power...
Seems like we did a lap on Finger Lickin' as well...I was probably too creamed to remember to take any photos.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Apr 12, 2007 - 11:31pm PT
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neat pics - I always liked those lower Merced cliffs - thanks for posting.
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 13, 2007 - 12:58am PT
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Awesome history lesson Kevin. Thanks for that. All these historical route names should definitely end up as akas or somehow otherwise be noted in the new Meyers' guide. And I thought no poaching was allowed in a National Park!
Marshall, those pics are killer!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 15, 2007 - 06:59pm PT
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So, if Bridwell wasn't able to climb the purloined Pinky Paraysis, then why does he get any first ascent credit? I understand the motivation to be recorded but either you do or you don't actually climb the route on the day in question. There would certainly be some justice in lost reward for treachery and pirating in the same way that chiseling the foothold on New Dimensions didn't gain Jim the FFA soon to be snatched away by Mark Klemens without its help. Do I have the story straight here?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Apr 15, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
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Nice report, missed that one.
Chill Russ, you're on the train,on the train,on the train,on the train,on the train,on the train,.....
But watch out for the waterfall on basket dome.
All I remember about finger lickin' was not falling.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2007 - 09:42pm PT
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Melissa, check you email (the one the OW reports come in on)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2008 - 03:07am PT
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bump 'cause I liked this trip
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Nov 13, 2008 - 03:39am PT
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Neat thread. During the read I was thinking this is a climb I should go do. Then I saw Marshall's shots - wooo nelly.
Melissa, I thought Little Wing was intimidating as hell too. Something about making the first thin moves off the very end of that exposed ledge. Great climb though. I also loved, loved the Riddler out there.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Nov 13, 2008 - 12:27pm PT
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It's a cool area, good half day of cragging, but the P-oak ain't no joke. Like alot of the lower merced stuff, it's almost impossible to totally avoid it on the approach.
Took my first* grounder on Petty Larceny when I decided to fiddle with crap gear for 5minutes instead of punching it another few feet to a good lock. Put a 00tcu behind a thin flake, foothold crumbled, I pitched and when the rope came tight the flake blew off the wall. Hit the ground from about 12' on my heels, did a backwards somersault and slid downhill another 15ft. Luckily the ground was so soft and rock-free, I augered into the dirt about 4" before going ass over teakettle. Escaped more or less unscathed save for a giant bruise on one ass cheek. (* and hopefully, last grounder).
Since that was supposed to be the first pitch of the day, we moved over to "warm up" a little more on Snatch Power and Jawbone before moving up to Finger Lickin'. Snatch Power has a crimpy little section low where you're fishing in small gear that's probably the crux, but getting around the little roof/overlap is pretty awkward even though the jams are good. The day continued to be interesting (i.e. gripping) since I reached the upper half of SP, a uniform 1.5" crack, with no cams that would fit it. Placed the worst tipped out .75 camalot ever and ran it to the top. After those two fiascos, FingerLickin itself felt soothing, if taxing.
Good stuff up there for sure, you might put hedge clippers or a machete on your rack for the approach.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Nov 13, 2008 - 02:19pm PT
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I remember being bent that you guys never invited me along on those first ascents. Little Wing, PP, Finger Lickin', Snatch Power and all the rest are all huge classics in my book. How about the "Mark of Art." Now that's a super good one that doesn't get much traffic I reckon. So is Short but Thin.
So many routes . . .
JL
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2008 - 02:57pm PT
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Mark of Art gets a lot of attention because it is next to Sacherer Cracker, both as a lead and as a TR. Certainly within the last month Rhodo_Router was belaying a partner attempting to lead that rig...
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 13, 2008 - 09:24pm PT
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Photos of my hiney remerge...The reminiscence bump made me smile since I haven't been getting out a lot lately.
I haven't been back to Little Wing (except for strolling down the road), but I reckon it looks as scarey as ever. I did return to Finger Lickin' in peak form after last spring's Indian Creek trip to settle a score and try some of the other offerings and have probably not climbed that well since... Super fun day, Ed! Thanks for the bump. :-)
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Nov 13, 2008 - 09:45pm PT
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I haven't been on it since 1981, but I used to say that
Little Wing is one of the best one-pitch climbs around.
Is that reasonable?
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Nov 13, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
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"We've got a crag in San Diego that has some of that kind of rock quality, angle, and hold type"
Really? How come when I lived in San Diego, none of these good crags had really been discovered (unless you count Valley of the Moon, which....meh...)
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Nov 14, 2008 - 12:18am PT
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Vanishing Point also deserves to be mentioned among these .10+ routes. Not as sustained, but that crux section had my number. Nice quiet area too.
I was able to ferret out a clear view of the roof on VP in five of the viewing points at xrez's amazing site: clear from Yosemite Point, Columbia Rock, Eagle Point, Manure Pile and El Cap Summit. What a resource.
http://www.xrez.com/yose_proj/yose_deepzoom/new/XRez%20Xtreme%20Pano/index.html
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 14, 2008 - 12:54am PT
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Yep
Got watch out for that "Warbler".
He's got eyeballs in the back of his head for routes that the common man will never "see".
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