Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
|
|
Aug 14, 2018 - 12:56pm PT
|
Is that roof pic of The Terror hamie?
Or, more likely, Great Roof on El Cap I guess.
|
|
hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
|
|
|
Aug 14, 2018 - 09:26pm PT
|
Just The Terror, Oplo. It would have been such a blast to do the Nose with Tim. I wish.
|
|
SandyF
Trad climber
Calgary, AB
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2018 - 11:50am PT
|
Tim performed a rescue of my late partner in 2003 after my partner fell on Bonanza in the Ghost River Climbing area just inside the Banff park boundary. It was a horrible day followed by many more as I lost the love of my life at that time. Tim's professionalism and skill gave me as much comfort as was possible during those horrible hours on a little ledge. I will always hold him in very high regard and am sad to hear of his passing. 72 is much too young and my condolences to his family, friends and all who loved him.
Thanks Tim for your help and hard work 15 years ago, Sept. 6, 2003. I won't ever forget you.
|
|
jstan
climber
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2018 - 01:10pm PT
|
We all have a feeling as to whether some one has passed early, but I have not seen this made a little more quantitative. Using the 2018 actuarial life table, at the indicated ages, the probability of death in the next five years may be calculated.
Age Male Female
40 1% 1%
45 2% 1%
50 3%. 2%
55 4% 3%
60 6% 4%
65 8% 5%
70 12% 8%
75 19%. 13%
80 29% 22%
85 44%. 36%
90 64%. 55%
95 81%. 74%
100. 90% 86%
105. 96%. 95%
Statistics permit one to get a five cent cup of coffee for five cents. But the logic for 65 as a retirement age seems supported. For ages below 60, women have about a five year advantage over men, but that advantage subsequently becomes reduced. As though sex independent mechanisms for death come into play above 60.
Would be interesting to see these statistics compared between patriarchal and matriarchal cultures.
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2018 - 01:49pm PT
|
I heard that the Auger Sanction was a great sandbag as Tim said to Larry something about maybe Grade 4, not too bad an approach, and should go in a day. I think Larry and Grant found it was Grade 6 and they had to bivy before they got back to the car. Maybe PA can confirm this
|
|
Peter Arbic
climber
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2018 - 01:16pm PT
|
I can only confirm it did not feel like grade 4 The approach was heinous, we bivied twice as it was and might have again on the way out crossing sunshine meadows in the dark in a whiteout without a compass except another night out would have meant being met in the am at the Sunshine boundary rope by an search party and death by exhaustion seemed a more palatable option for both of us. Still an active member of the Never Rescued by Wardens Club.
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2018 - 03:05pm PT
|
Right I forgot you did Alberta with Tim. Just after Trevor and JoJo bailed due to storm
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2018 - 04:33pm PT
|
I didn't know him but he sounds like he was a good person. RIP
|
|
Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2018 - 10:38pm PT
|
From Clint's post
Inner Reaches 5.7, Chuck Pratt, Tim Auger, Jerry Anderson, 4/1973]
This sounds interesting. I bet it's 5.7, he. he he. he he ha ha HAAA.
Bruce, Thanks for pointing out the Keeler Needle photo. I didn't know that.
I'm sorry for his passing.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2018 - 09:03am PT
|
This is some truly unfortunate news as Tim was very high on my interview list for the Elevated Lives Project. I first became aware of Tim through that amazing Ascent cover shot on Keeler and this article.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3116367/East-of-the-High-Sierra-Galen-Rowell-Climbing-March-1973
When I started ice climbing in Banff during the 90s Tim was the warden and always a really solid source of information on avalanche and route conditions. I always intended to buy him a steak dinner for all of his help and advice while climbing there but it never happened and I didn't get to even meet him which is regrettable now.
RIP Tim you helped and saved a lot of folks in trouble in those wild mountains for which we should all be grateful.
|
|
Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2018 - 06:24pm PT
|
Thank you all for your photos and stories. Keep them coming. Tim's family is trying to gather this sort of material for a memorial website. If you have anything -- stories, photos -- you can email me at
gwoodsworth@hotmail.com
Thanks....
Glenn Woodsworth
|
|
hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2018 - 01:23pm PT
|
Here's another tribute which I ran across yesterday:
"Over the past 30 years, there is probably no one person who has assisted in rescuing as many visitors in the mountain parks as Tim Auger. He embodies an unsurpassed modesty, creativity, and a dedication to the sport of mountaineering and safety."
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2018 - 06:51pm PT
|
A memorial to Tim, in today's Toronto Globe & Mail:
https://www.theglobeandmail.com/canada/article-climber-tim-auger-became-an-expert-in-mountain-rescues/
A photo of the first practice rescue at Squamish, in 1967 or 1968, when they climbed part way up the Grand Wall, and lowered a stretcher. Tim in white shirt, second from right, with bottle. Perhaps his very first 'rescue'. Names TBA.
Other people in the photo include Mab and Colin Oloman, Gordie Smaill, Jim Sinclair, Tony Cousins, and Gordie Smaill.
|
|
Tricouni
Mountain climber
Glenn Woodsworth, Vancouver
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2018 - 10:29pm PT
|
2nd from right: Tim Auger. Hi girlfriend Linda is behind him. Mike Wisnicki is to the right of Linda. Mike's girfriend (can't remembe3r her name) is next top Mike, with her arm around him.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2018 - 08:31pm PT
|
A source will provide names of those in Wade's photo.
For the lightweights who didn't make it on Saturday:
Luckily, we had a window of only showery weather, between heavy rain during much of the day.
|
|
Lawrence of O'Hara
climber
|
|
This is a draft of a story for Alpinist and it hopefully answers the question around the Auger Sanction:) It was a classic 90’s Canmore party. Kids were going wilder than adults except maybe Tim Auger. Tim was on the floor vividly acting out a tale of falling 100’s of m off the East ridge of Logan and ending up in an avalanche deposit at Sunshine village. Heck of a good story!
When Tim had regained his feet and I started to lose mine I cornered him for beta about an unclimbed Waterfall ice climb you could just see the top 1/2 of from Divide chair at Sunshine Village. He kinda rolled his eyes, made a funny little horizontal swimming motion with his hand and said “Ya, i just flew by there, ah 2-3 pitches, maybe grade 2/3, might be interesting if it was thin”
Grant Statham and I had thought this would be the backcountry “Nemesis” not some ice walk. Luckily, we brought along some pins and our big boy underwear. It started with a long kinda runout Grade 6 pitch, 2 Grade 5 pitches and 2 or 3 more pitches of just regular kinda hard climbing. We called it “The Auger Sanction” Tim was the self proclaimed “Master of 5.8”-many of his “5.8" routes are now rated mid 5.10. I guess he was also the “Master of Grade 2”. Tim and Peter Arbic(TA and PA) did the 2nd ascent of the route and had their own fine adventure.
Tim was a friend, mentor, motivated climber and just all the around keenest, nicest and funniest guy in town. I miss him.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!