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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 29, 2018 - 07:21pm PT
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According to Anna Piunova of www.mountain.ru, Gukov and Glazunov set off 14 days ago with only 5 days food supply for their summit bid on what has come to be known as one of the biggest prizes in high altitude mountaineering. A GPS signal received on 24 July pinpointed the two at 6975m, but tragedy struck a day later when Sergey Glazunov fell to his death while rappelling.
Could it be that they topped out and one fell to his death while rappelling and had all the gear with him (usually the first person on rap carries most of the gear for building anchors etc)? Too bad, hope his partner gets down safe to tell the story...
edit: went to Russian web site. They were near the top but didn't quite make it.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 29, 2018 - 07:56pm PT
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Vitaily, I think Jim said this up thread. Think also the Russians got a touch closer before they decided to rap.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 29, 2018 - 08:22pm PT
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Good karma to the stranded Russian climber. The trek sounds amazing. I did the Annapurna Circuit way back in 1992 (now I hear it's been "improved" into a dirt road). I've always wanted to go back but I've got a 7, 12 and 14 yr. old, and I've always been afraid of how it might have changed. Not that I'd ever have the time pre-retirement, but the Latok trek seems like a chance to walk among cathedrals.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2018 - 08:26pm PT
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Alexander Gukov is still stuck at 6,200 meters. Helicopter is waiting for good enough weather to oull him off with a long line. This report is one hour old.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Jul 29, 2018 - 08:35pm PT
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Amazing he's hanging in there-tough sog!
Hoping for the best, would be an amazing rescue.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2018 - 08:55pm PT
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My goodness Robert L, I have been imprecise in my language. Going back to Latok for me, at 75, never was mean’t to imply that I was going to try to climb it. The area has had a special place in my climbing soul ever since I nearly left my corporeal self there forty years ago.
Had you read my reporting of my trip there with George Lowe in 2016 you would realize that my desires there center around rooting for others to close the circle while personally having a go at neighboring 6,000 meter peaks which now seem more aligned with my current pay grade. I shall henceforth refer to my travels to that area as going back to the Latok area in an effort to meet your approval.
The focus at the moment should be the drama surrounding the attempts to rescue Alexander Gukov.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Jul 29, 2018 - 09:06pm PT
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Semantics Jim, he may have been the only one that questioned your intent. Me, I figured you just want to go back and dance with the locals...
Whatever, I'm still jealous:-)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2018 - 09:15pm PT
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Delhi Dog....i have been working with a dance coach to improve this years.performance.
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Jul 30, 2018 - 07:59am PT
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I applaud you Jim for not being an ass, to an ass. Happy travels.
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Jul 30, 2018 - 11:09am PT
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Fresh brew, warm thoughts, tea.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 30, 2018 - 01:40pm PT
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Unlike Moose, I may not make it to Latok I, but the Subaru and I are now good friends. :)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2018 - 04:07pm PT
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That’s great news Lynne...have fun with the subaru.....leaving in seven hours!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 30, 2018 - 05:41pm PT
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Cheers, to all the Trek expedition! I'm popping some champagne right now and raising a hearty toast to an awesome adventure!
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jul 30, 2018 - 05:44pm PT
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Good luck, Jim. Have fun, and stay safe. I look forward to hearing the stories when you get back.
By which time you'll be owing me a fine bottle of wine.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Jul 30, 2018 - 05:52pm PT
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Delhi Dog I about spit my drink out seeing that video! LOL!!!!!
Thanks!
S....
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Jul 30, 2018 - 06:11pm PT
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^^ yeah, just the ticket for Jim:-)
and Moose, he'll need those moves to shuck 'n jive with the locals, Jim at least has a leg up on 'em having been there before
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2018 - 07:03pm PT
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No fast food burger places but beef is to be had if you’re willing to work for it.
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