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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 20, 2007 - 01:41am PT
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Ditto & Bravo!
You guys are doin' our age group proud.
Thanks for sharing the super cool experience.
-Roy
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Trad climber
Sittin' on the dock by the bay...
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Jan 20, 2007 - 01:58am PT
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Damn, I'm sitting here at my computer.
Have ice tools. Will travel...
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Jan 20, 2007 - 02:13am PT
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Man, Sometimes I forget that the guides can really rock climb. Bengston and Nidiver can bust. Congrats to the three hardmen.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 20, 2007 - 11:10am PT
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In the beginning...
As is the historical pattern the WT was not in "safe condition" by Friday. The very compact, smooth granite walls do not support the ice with 1 (and only 1)warm day. We climbed on Wed, temps had been cold and Wed temps were L16 and H36. Thursday temps in the Valley and Badger Pass were L23 and H55. Stand back and watch er crumble.
Amen
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 20, 2007 - 11:25am PT
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That's one hellava boulder problem. Proud!
An if this ain't an honest climbing thread, then there will nver be one. Photogs and all, sweet.
What time did y'all start and how long were you on the route? How was the descent? Not that *I'll* be using the info to suss the route, but it'd be cool to know sitting in my warm chair.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 20, 2007 - 11:39am PT
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In the beginning...
K-Man
We put a car at Badger Pass Ski Area, then drove to the Tunnel View overlook. Began approach at 0545. It took 1.5 hrs, although could be cleaned up. It would be possible to V-thread the route (10-11 raps), but it is nice just to walk away, which we opted for. 3 hrs to Badger Pass.
blessings on ya'll
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 20, 2007 - 11:57am PT
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Sweet. I guess you could stash some skis to make the walk off easier, 3 hours of post holing, ugh. I thought you'd take the trail back to the overlook, but BP sounds like the better way to go.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 21, 2007 - 12:38pm PT
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In the beginning...
I'm just getting into the Forum, very nice to see so many familiar faces here. The climbing is good of course, but I have great memories of hang'in with so many of the folks here. Tarbuster, do you remember when we guided the Italians up the Nose, those boys couldn't speak a word of English. (thankfully a bit of French) I remember yelling up a pitch or 2 asking you how to say this or that in French, so I could tell the guy to put me back on belay. Walleye, nice hang'in with you the other day. Thanks for bringing me up to speed on the Forum. Werner, nice to see you again (as always)
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jan 21, 2007 - 12:43pm PT
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Sic photos! Sic route....
gotta love the "internet's" for getting great stories and photos out to get you fired up!
ks
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 21, 2007 - 07:47pm PT
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Welcome to the forum Flanders!
The Widows Tears post: just one more reason to hang around here online. Dig around and you'll find lotsa fun stuff buried in the "newspaper stack". A virtual reunion in many ways. Yes, I remember those multi-lingual belay signals on the Nose.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 21, 2007 - 07:52pm PT
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WT looks like something Pete Schoerner would have been all over. Nice send guys.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 21, 2007 - 11:31pm PT
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In the beginning...
Not many know of Pete Schoerner. He was a really good guy, good dad, his children are the same age as my boys (Tobin now 21, Layton now 19) How did you know Pete?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 22, 2007 - 12:20am PT
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Well, I only ice climbed with Pete a few times back in the late 80's. I did kayak with him a bit. And skied with him a bunch. He was a tele god. In my opinion he was one of the great unknowns.
I knew Pete as a result of my brother Chris who was a firefighter/medic in June Lake. Chris is now the Fire Chief in Soldotna Alaska. I wish my brother still lived in June Lake, it's nice to have a free place to crash.
Kevin Mokracek
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Finessa
Social climber
Yosemite
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Jan 22, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
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So, who lead what pitches? Did you all swing pitches or lead in blocks. Who lead the crux? What was the crux? Who's Idea was it to make this knarly accent?
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 23, 2007 - 12:24am PT
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In the beginning...
Hi Finessa,
the tech crux was the thin 3rd, ice started at 1/2", but quickly got up to 1.5-2.5" with occasional ledges with screwable ice (10cm). Scotty lead that pitch, oh so smooth and together on the thin stuff! The pump crux was the 4th pitch pillar, that was my pitch. RE: who's idea; it was somewhat funny how it came together. When it got cold here in June Lake (-21F) we were thinking ice!!!I wanted to guide WT, had a client lined up (very capable)and asked Dave if YMS would allow it. To his credit he did think about it before pointing out the risk/rewards were outside the company's interest. I tried pointing out that it was somewhat highend when I guided Astroman awhile back and this was similar. He pointed out that Astroman doesn't fall off.(he does have a good point here)So I asked him again the following day if I should come over with a client or a friend, he said friend. I asked him if he would be my friend. (yippee) Scotty and I had been in Canada recently climbing ice, he was on it when WT topic came up. (yippeeX2)
doug
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Jan 23, 2007 - 12:31pm PT
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Beeyoootiful! Nice ascent and thanks for the pics.
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dbcc in slo
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Jan 23, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
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Amazing commitment and dedication!!
WOW! I hope you all had a burger and a beer when you were done!
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keep looking up
Trad climber
ocean west
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Jan 23, 2007 - 02:01pm PT
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you guys are my soul & my heart's inspiration!
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Keeper of Australia Mt
Trad climber
Whitehorse, Yukon , Canada
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Jan 23, 2007 - 04:46pm PT
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Awesome, ice climbing in Yosemite. Climatic cooling - bring it on! The next ice age will be rad and the Valley will be magical - pick-ure perfect. Keep it happening down there.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 23, 2007 - 08:53pm PT
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Damn!! I am so envious. That is the one ice climb I want to do before I die......I was in the Valley with Henry and others while Mark and Kevin scored the first ascentand have wanted to do it ever since. I'd fly there from here if I knew it was in shape. Good Job guys!!
Jack R
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