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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jan 30, 2008 - 12:04am PT
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I'll certainly look you up next time I'm in that area, Dave.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 30, 2008 - 12:43am PT
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So Dave
Which one is you?
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:04am PT
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Thanks for the article, Mighty Hiker.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:40am PT
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I have no idea why or how but I never got to climb with either Max or Mark, despite us being in the Valley, on many of the same routes, at roughly the same time. My loss. I always respected how these guys always went for the hard stuff, even obscure stuff like Mother Earth. More heros . . .
JL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 31, 2008 - 11:38am PT
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Did M&M do the entire Mother Earth or the lower portion?
Here is a classic Kevin Worral topo circa 1977 showing the lower part along with Space Babble. Mother Earth is still at the top of my Middle list!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jan 31, 2008 - 11:43am PT
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Yeah Dave, which one is you?
Largo, Wow, thanks. I consider it to my advantage that I was taught to think for myself and not really care what other people thought about what I was doing. Max and I weren't out to make a name for ourselves, we were always amazed that we were doing what we were when we thought that there were other climbers who were much more talented than us around. We always thought "Why aren't these guys doing this stuff"?
Steve, we did the whole thing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 31, 2008 - 11:51am PT
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I would love to hear about it Mark. You guys got the first repeat I imagine with as little traffic as that one received. The little bits of aid up high was enough to deter most folks.
Which one of you got the infamous "leap or 5.12" pitch?
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:09pm PT
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Hey fellers.
Yeah well, I'm not really sure who started the can scam and recall
(Randy) that I turned you onto ti it on one of our first mutual trips from Sonora/Turlock to the Valley. I loved to ideas of re-recycling cans (being the good enviros we were) and getting paid for it.
Mark, you and I did some great routes together before you and Max got "hitched" such as Nabisco Wall, Orangutan Arch, 1096, Blotto, and lots of others. You and Base visited us at the folks house in southern Cal and we showed you all a good time at Josh and Tahquitz. I/we also made it to your wedding in Hood River (remember?).
Last time I saw Max, he and I were in a Mountain Bike race together in the early 90's. At the start of the race I looked over at him and said, "Max, we used to climb together, it's Spencer" his response was "are you Mark Hudon"? I just dropped back, Max won the race and I never got to chat with him afterwards. He was certainly quite focused!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
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We did do the 2nd ascent. I led the leap, but didn't leap and really didn't think it was too hard. We followed the free climbing and jugged only the aid. Max did the leap also.
Max and I had done the Mescalito, Zodiac and had been up on the PO (I dropped a rock on my finger and tore out the nail so we retreated) so aid wasn't foreign to us. We did it in two days with a few pitches fixed.
At one point, Max had some wide ranging, semi sketchy belay set up and I was climbing some pillar, maybe 5.10+, right above him when I thought I saw it move. If it had gone it would have killed us both. I freaked out, I yelled that this sucked and that we were going down and I don't give a F2#%K and we're out of there and all that. Anyway, I calmed down, continued on and we didn't die.
I have some photos but they're out in the garage.
I remember all that, Spencer! Max didn't say that did he? He didn't forget me? We've climbed together since. I've been down to Donner a few times, climbed at Cave Rock with him and he came up to Smith once. I tried to get him interested in a 30 year reunion one day ascent of the Nose but he didn't seem too interested. It's still on my list though.
It was Eric Barrett who started the can scam.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:43pm PT
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Well Mark,
I'm sure adrenalin, endorphins, confusion, agitation and over-stimulation made Max wonder if under my helmet and glasses I might be you (though subtracting a foot or two, I don't look much like you).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Very few pictures of Mother Earth ever made it out to press. I bet your slide box is a treasure chest, Mark. How about kicking down a few doubloons for some hungry old pirates! You guys may be amazed to know that the entire route hasn't likely seen another ascent since yours! I never heard of another party doing it while I was keeping track especially once the Little Mother Earth exit traverse became popular as an all free outing.
Here is the complete topo from the Yellow Meyers' guide.
Any other recollections about the climbing up there? Did you guys think that the aid sections would go free in passing through?
I have a memory that Kauk climbed the "leap or 5.12" crux statically, with great difficulty, calling it the "hardest moves that he had done on rock," at the time. Nice job on the send. Did you guys warm up on any of the other Middle Rock testpieces beforehand?
The complete Mother Earth is probably the rarest jewel in the crown of MCR gems as far as repeats. Again, outstanding adventure to bite off back then!
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Double D
climber
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Feb 16, 2008 - 08:30pm PT
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Mark, Werner: I'm the err, silightly fat guy without the beard.
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go-B
climber
Sozo
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Mar 11, 2011 - 12:52am PT
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Mark did you use Hex's on Crimson, cus that makes me Cringe!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 13, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
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Thanks to Anders for posting this.
Big bump for Max and Mark ahead of their upcoming South Seas to P.O. trip report coming here soon!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 13, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
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Both times I've led the Cringe have been on hexes. I'd love to do it with cams one of these days!
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Bumpity bump
Wish those intial images would be reposted.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Pirates, eh?
Robots are simply not as colorful.
Macro & Micro in Fresno got the clown gig covered nicely.
Climbing in a ranger's uniform might elicit some negative comment, while climbing in a priest's cassock is stupid, and with a pumpkin on your head is just spooky.
I wonder what the photos were of & I wonder where the photos went; what's the beef, Anders?
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