2 Climber Falls in JT this weekend

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donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 5, 2017 - 08:25am PT
Why does JT lend itself so well to tempests in a teapot? Double Cross comes to mind.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Dec 5, 2017 - 08:40am PT
Golf Rule #13 - Improving Lie

PENALTY FOR BREACH OF RULE:
Match play – Loss of hole; Stroke play – Two strokes.

When I was 9 years old (1969) we took a road trip from Houston to Arizona in our new 67 Impala two door. We walked up Sunset Crater and on the way down we met a ranger carrying a rock. My father asked him what he was doing. The ranger said someone carried the rock down from the top, and apparently it was different than rocks at the bottom.
We were not much of an outdoor family, but for some reason that had a profound effect on me, I learned LNT that day. Thanks to the NPS professionals who set the example. As for the tools, they are just another obstacle to be moved.

Leave the rock where it is, there are plenty of sanitized V3s.

Why does JT lend itself so well to tempests in a teapot? Double Cross comes to mind.

Think rats in a crowded cage
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Dec 5, 2017 - 09:43am PT

Thanks, FreeCoffee for the info. . .

(and if I'd have been there to enjoy it, the coffee too)!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Dec 5, 2017 - 10:46am PT
Worth noting that WR is no longer rated v3?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 5, 2017 - 10:55am PT
And if so, is it really the case that the location of a rock in the desert is more important than the a 20-something male with a life-altering injury?


You're gonna have to move a lot of boulders.

A huge boulder will create a crater, an eyesore in a pristine desert.

Many climbers aspire to climb the line as it is - the landing is part of the experience. Just like with hundreds of other boulder problems.

Some climbers will see the idea of manufacturing the base of a route and take it too far - remember the yucca at the base of the Chube? that's gone.


Older generations may not think much of bouldering, but just as a 30 foot tall climb should be left as is so should a 15 foot climb. No cutting down trees, no trimming shrubs, no moving boulders or building landings. Climb in the desert or leave. Guarantee you the boulderer who fell knew what he was getting into and takes responsibilities for his own actions, as we all do. He had one pad and one spotter, pretty ballsy for a route of that height.

I think the railing should be re-installed under The Thimble. It's too safe now.

Well that thing is man-made, isn't it?

There's a boulder at the base of Hero roof lets move that. Also the landing for yabba dabba don't is badly slanted, should we move the sand around and flatten that out? It's not like it's a national park...



Be careful in the park, if you see a rescue and you are free and have some training see if a hand is needed for a carry out or maybe retrieve gear for the climbers. We can take some workload off of JOSAR.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 5, 2017 - 11:15am PT


What would the landscape look like if you rolled this puppy away?
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Dec 5, 2017 - 11:36am PT
^^^ Another super thoughtful post.

Personally, I didn’t care for the tone.
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Dec 5, 2017 - 11:49am PT
I, and many hundreds of others have climbed this problem with the same risk of injury - it's your choice to take that gamble


Absolutely. Just don't come back to the climbing community and ask for donations for surgeries and rehabilitation. That's part of the "risk" one assumes.
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Dec 5, 2017 - 12:05pm PT
Carry decent health insurance. That should be part of the community norm, if indeed it encourages needless risk-taking. Take responsibility for your actions. Don't go out willy-nilly and all excited to do a dangerous highball without thinking it through.

Here's a personal (rather extreme) example: when I drove from Atlanta out to Colorado in August of 1954 to experience real mountains, Dad and I talked it over and made sure I had burial insurance!

;>)
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Dec 5, 2017 - 12:06pm PT
It looks as if rfshore edited his post a bit to change the “tone”.
Yeah, coming in and telling Mr T he needs to get “learned up” before chiming in wasn’t the most tactful was to start what was otherwise a decent post.
Still, when you start bringing up gym climbers, idiot pro climbers, instatweetbook, and always doing things democratically, I just kinda roll my eyes.

I still can’t believe the dude crushed Hot Rocks and blew the top out on WR!
Hope he heals up- open tib fib is gnarly!
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Dec 5, 2017 - 12:31pm PT
Voluntary contributions are identical to insurance premiums


Well, I don't think so, but whatever . . .

The idea of the community underwriting possible injuries should perhaps be firmed up with climbers donating to the fund on a regular basis. Doesn't the American Alpine Club to something like this?
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Dec 5, 2017 - 12:31pm PT
rfshore- it looks to me like you’re the one doing the name calling.
Just saying.
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Dec 5, 2017 - 12:46pm PT
Going on 81 I suppose I'm just too old to understand the injury issue. Certainly, volunteering donations to help cover medical expenses above and beyond what decent health insurance pays is a good and worthy thing to do. But it just seems climbers should take some responsibility for their actions.

Is there anyone on this thread who agrees with me?

Sorry for the thread drift.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Dec 5, 2017 - 01:24pm PT
Looks like you can toss a pad or two over that thing, easy peasy, happens everywhere all the time.

Boulders - they're often found in clusters.
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Dec 5, 2017 - 02:13pm PT
Lesson learned, destroy the footstool boulder next time. Then Dick can volunteer to glue the little pieces back together.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Dec 5, 2017 - 02:47pm PT
Sorry john but the health care system in this country is a fcking embaressment. even with expensive coverage any real sickness or injury will put you out on the street. If we don't help each other out in time of need WTF good are we?
hellroaring

Trad climber
San Francisco
Dec 5, 2017 - 03:08pm PT
When a road gets built through a national park that's altering and impacting the landscape in a BIG way. What about all the dynamiting to built parts of the JMT in the Sierra? I guess I can understand why NPS would be not like the public to alter and move. However, it does seem silly and over the top to move the thing back once it was in a new location. Just my worthless 2 cents. Hope the injured climber recovers as close to 100% as they can
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 5, 2017 - 03:59pm PT
He's Australian probably has decent insurance


Hot rocks is way more manageable for me, short lil crux and I won't hit the ground ass over tea kettle. WR is scary
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Dec 5, 2017 - 03:59pm PT
Sorry john but the health care system in this country is a fcking embaressment. even with expensive coverage any real sickness or injury will put you out on the street. If we don't help each other out in time of need WTF good are we?


So, are you suggesting climbers avoid health insurance and, instead, rely on community assistance? My point is simply that climbers make an effort to insure themselves first, then donations kick in. The Obama mandate?

Interesting opinions about boulders and risk. Thanks.
ExfifteenExfifteen

climber
Dec 5, 2017 - 04:46pm PT
Sorry john but the health care system in this country is a fcking embaressment. even with expensive coverage any real sickness or injury will put you out on the street. If we don't help each other out in time of need WTF good are we?

That's way over-generized for sure. Someone very close to me, who has a good job with good insurance was hospitalized for 12 weeks, had half a dozen surgeries, spent 4 weeks in assisted living and 4 weeks with a live in nurse at home. A year later they are still living in their house and are doing just fine.

Maybe, the choices we make in life have serious consequences...

Messages 41 - 60 of total 89 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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