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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 15, 2007 - 07:47pm PT
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every time someone bumps this thread my mouth waters.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jan 15, 2007 - 09:00pm PT
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Damn, one of the original Poway Boy(s) was in the Hood, and I missed it. Greg, very nice shots. Mt. Woodson/San Diego is pretty damn awesome. Lots to do.
You know after all these years and still only about a 1/4 of all of Woodson has been touched. What gems lie out there we can only guess at. We used to camp up there on the weekends in the seventies just to make better use of our time.
Between here and Bishop, life seems pretty complete. Sweet. Thanks for that and for reminding me how special Woodson is.
Klimmer
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Jan 19, 2007 - 12:57am PT
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Yeah BVB!! Remember the '70's!!
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Ricardo Carlos
Trad climber
Off center, CO.
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Jan 19, 2007 - 01:24am PT
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Nice pair of scats. I threw away a pair last move. Still have a pair or two. I remember the manager of a shoes store was a climber and had all the pairs moved to Grosmont shopping center.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Jan 19, 2007 - 01:28am PT
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Nah, these were tigers. But I had scats as well. I swore I could do more with these than EB's though!!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 19, 2007 - 01:45am PT
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Hey Mike,
That's how I remember you at Woodson. Firing off "hear my train a comin'" in tennis shoes.
Tom
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2007 - 10:48am PT
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My fingers were always too big or something for 'hear my train'. Yeah, that WAS it.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 19, 2007 - 11:44am PT
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Uh...yeah...uh...mine too!
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jan 20, 2007 - 12:55pm PT
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Mike P.,
That is how I remember you at Woodson in the 70's. It was like watching a magician on rock. Wild long hair and pulling off the most intense moves while soloing and making it all look smooth and very easy.
I did give you a few Bs back then. I gave you a belay on Test Tube, and you tied in with just a bowline on a coil around the waist and you forever changed my idea about minimalism.
I like to do that even now sometimes just to carry as little equipment as possible.
The 70's were a good time and full of wonderful memories. I miss them. Seems they were more innocent times.
Glenn Simpson
"Klimmer"
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jan 20, 2007 - 01:09pm PT
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Greg,
Thanks for the inspiring thread. This year I'm getting serious about climbing again...gonna start tomorrow...or the day after.
Rick
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Jan 20, 2007 - 01:26pm PT
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Yeah Greg!! It's been forever but do you guys have any original Poway Mt. Boys photos? Now that would be a blast from the past!! Peace, Michael Paul.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 20, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
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That place is truly finger size dependent. You got big fingers you simply ain't gonna do some of the really thin cracks there, and others with comparatively easy ratings (like Hear my Train at 11C) will likely be harder than any 5.12 crack in Tarnation. On the other hand, a lot of the wider stuff is not so bad for bigger folk.
What I'd like to see is a shot of the Silk Banana, an oddball classic with an interesting finish.
JL
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 20, 2007 - 07:44pm PT
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Thanks, JL. I feel vindicated! By the way...there is a shot of Silk Banana (a truly odd classic) in one of the latest issues of R&I or Climbing. Can't remember (or find at this moment) which one.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jan 20, 2007 - 08:50pm PT
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I've been forever off of correctly judging class 5 ratings having grown-up climbing at Woodson in the seventies. A Woodson 5.9 is more like a 5.10. Many 5.10s at Woodson are more like 5.11. And then of course 5.11 could really be 5.12. There is often a full letter grade difference.
I don't know. Maybe other areas got soft? It has screwed me up ever since. My grading system is very workable though: hard, harder, and damn near impossible.
It would be great to see more of the "Poway Mt. Boys" post up. It would be cool if Rick P., were to arrive and talk about the days of yore. Last I heard from another thread - he was up in Tahoe area.
Greg, are you in touch with him?
PS We should link other Woodson threads to this thread. A lot of history has been discussed here over time. ST is a great resource.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2007 - 11:03am PT
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So, this thread's not dead. Good to hear from you Watusi. Seems kind of strange that our paths didn't cross more. In fact, I can only think of climbing with you at Woodson maybe once or twice. But, of course, your reputation always proceeded you (or is it preceeded?). Haven't been in touch with Piggot - the pride of the Poway Mountain Boys. As for pictures, I think the only pictures I have of Woodson are the ones I took this Xmas. My brother Jim must have a lot of them from 1970 and 1971 that he developed himself in black and white. I may try to get some of those scanned.
Hey Klimmer. As a fellow Woodson afficianado, we'll have to boulder there together some time. Radical - good story about Robbins Crack. I've always found the size somewhat difficult as well. Rick - How's that climbing coming today (in the snow)? Largo - I was checking out the Silk Banana on this trip. Never could come close to doing it, have you done it? Mooser - Hey!
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Jan 21, 2007 - 11:22am PT
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Hi Greg! Yeah I mostly remember going over to the house in Poway and hanging more with Tom and George a little. I got to know Rick a little better in later years but for the most part never really hung with you that much, more with Bob Van Belle (BVB), Ron Amick (gonamuck), and Greg Epperson. But I always had been told of many of your exploits which are legendary!
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jan 21, 2007 - 11:51am PT
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Johnny- re: hand size dependent cracks. I will refrain from complaining about certain fist+ cracks, e.g. Paisano Overhang, if you do the same regarding thin finger cracks!
Greg-gonna have to be the day after, looks like snowboarding in the neighborhood again today.
For those who haven’t been to Woodson, there are good face climbs, too. Here is Karl M. on “Go with the Flow”, circa 1979.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Jan 21, 2007 - 12:45pm PT
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Wow! Rockamazo, that's a classic of Karl Mueller!! I used to hang out with him a bit back then!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2007 - 01:15pm PT
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Although I haven't seen him in many years, I happen to know that Karl is a professor at CU Boulder where he teaches structural geology.
I just remembered another time when I couldn't do hear my train a com'in ... I remember a chipmunk looking at me kinda funny, and then like, the sun was in my eyes or something. My hands were extra sweaty - they're always extra sweaty on those Woodson .11c finger cracks. I remember thinking to myself, I don't have a chance.
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