Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2018 - 07:53pm PT
|
Hilarious that JLP thinks she had beta on the pro because she has thin pro racked on her harness for a thin crack. Brain surgeon.
|
|
domngo
climber
Canada
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2018 - 07:54pm PT
|
Matt Thompsen I don't think the list in the article is meant to be exhaustive. Quite sure you could add M.A. Leclerc to the Canadians list. Not to mention climbers on the humble that I dare say have also probably climbed it...
whose counting really...badass. My glutes hurt thinking of being up there again without aiders.
|
|
tradryan
Big Wall climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2018 - 08:03pm PT
|
Looks like a first try onsight flash to me :) Impressive! To say the least
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2018 - 08:46pm PT
|
Congratulations to Emilie Pellerin!
Really inspirational!
|
|
Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2018 - 06:05am PT
|
Just wow on the on-sight of the Shadow. They let gurls climb this hard? Damn. Emilie must be floating on air during and after that lead. Congrats!
And, yeah, friggin' on-sight!
BAd
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2018 - 10:23am PT
|
https://rockandice.com/videos/climbing/jesse-huey-on-the-shadow-5-13a-in-squamish/
There's generally a line to climb a decent 13a these days. I'd guess a climb like this sees numerous sends per season plus another few 1000 working laps from guys who just sent their first 12a a few weeks before. Suggesting this may be the second free in 30 yrs since Croft climbed it is vastly out of touch.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2018 - 10:49am PT
|
unfortunately when you post an ascent and you are a woman you deal with no one looking at it the way you would send it if it was a man.
Thanks for sharing, looks hard as f*#k.
|
|
domngo
climber
Canada
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2018 - 03:40pm PT
|
This heavily creased porno-like spread in Mclane's previous comprehensive documentary work is probably the best I've seen in any guidebook ever.
Canada's pretty neat, eh?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2018 - 05:32pm PT
|
Canadians punch above their weight as I see it.
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2018 - 07:31pm PT
|
Skidoo . . .
|
|
aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2018 - 08:30pm PT
|
Suppose you had a climbing area where everyone agrees:
No one records a first ascent
No one records subsequent ascents
No climbs are rated
No route descriptions are written down.
No bolts, fixed gear, or chalk.
In other words, you come, you go, you may socialize, but you never discuss the specifics of any route you have done. The goal is that everyone wants to keep their climbs and all the routes as anonymous as possible, so that any new climber can experience the thrill of new discovery. I wonder what that would be like to have such a climbing culture?
|
|
domngo
climber
Canada
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2018 - 09:07pm PT
|
aspen, all the polarizing talk south of our border seems to have gotten into your head a bit ;)
Heres a helpful diagram:
Again, kudos to all that are climbing more rock then slandering more talk. The gold standard for climbing is always honesty in my books....that or Reardons trip up RW
|
|
couchmaster
climber
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2018 - 05:57am PT
|
Congrats Emilie, great lead (that looks so F**ing difficult!) and that's a fantastic shot you posted showing your onsight. Who took the picture?
|
|
Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2018 - 06:33am PT
|
^ it would be like cavers, underground. They don't just tell anyone where the good caves are, because people will vandalize the crystals.
|
|
Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2018 - 11:11am PT
|
From upthread JLP linked
https://rockandice.com/videos/climbing/jesse-huey-on-the-shadow-5-13a-in-squamish/
Thanks! The Wyde climbers amongst us should check it out. There are couple minutes of chicken wining and some of the "stemming" is super flared back-foot chimneying that I just love (ok, used to love) doing. Jesse Huey is engaging even if he left Arlington, WA for Colorado.
wrt all the flash ... terminology, if it's important to you, just make sure you scrutinize all ascents equally. Empellerin's ascent sounds totally effing awesome!!! In an area like Squamish or Yosemite, don't you all think that there is some amount of beta floating around in the air about a striking climb like that? Figuratively speaking. That would apply to Croft's ascent as well (it was nailed before he did the FFA, right?). But, as someone else said upthread, the gear list for that didn't look very cryptic. Personally I don't care much about beta. if you go up to a climb once, get up it without weighting the rope or gear: COOL. I love Emilie's account of being on the way to another climb and seeing a line and having to give it a go. I love it when that happened to me, and the sizing up of a climb and my abilities based on seeing it rather than what to guide book says.
|
|
Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2018 - 11:13am PT
|
The first ascent of the University Wall back in 1966 by Tim Auger, Hamish Mutch, Dan Tate and Glenn Woodsworth was a pretty big deal given the relative isolation of the Squamish climbing scene and the fact these guys climbed the most obvious line on The Grand with a mere handful of bolts compared to the Baldwin Cooper route.
As an aid route it was a mandatory stepping stone for all of us back in the day and a worthy and memorable outing in it's own right with most of us enjoying a hammock bivi at the tree on our way.
Peter, Hamish and Greg's first free ascent of the U Wall via the three variations to Dance, Peter and Hamish's subsequent first continuous free ascent of the whole shebang with the Roman Chimneys and Peter's and Geoff's first try free ascent of the entire U Wall line without those variations as The Shadow a few years later all stand in their own respective right as unequivocal milestones in Squamish climbing history.
Alex Honnold's free solo via the "easier" variations is difficult to comprehend to anyone who's been up there and speaks to his esteem for the route.
I'd venture that Emilie's "on sight" ascent of The Shadow Corner is another important part of the U Wall's history and one she can be legitimately proud of.
It would be great to know if she kept the drive alive and on sighted the 12c arch pitch as well as this is an essential passage for the complete Shadow.
(Peter told me about a memorable thirty foot zoomer off this one on his and Geoff's ascent.)
It was rare and noteworthy to see anyone anywhere on The Grand in the late seventies, rare to see anyone trying to repeat the U Wall free in the early nineties and now, on any given dry summer day, you can't swing a dead cat without hitting someone free climbing the U Wall.
IMHO, The University Wall/Shadow is the finest route on the entire Chief massif no matter how you climb it; free, aid or mixed and I suspect most if not all of those who've climbed The U Wall share this sentiment.
I can't speak for Peter's opinion on all of this but can say that having known and climbed with him off and on since 1973, he's a person of great integrity and that honesty and the details of style matter very much to him.
In all of this discussion I'm left wondering if honesty about means and fair recognition for legitimate achievement are mutually exclusive?
Tim Auger passed away a few weeks ago and I look forward to joining old and new friends at our annual Psyche Ledge rendezvous on Sept. 15 to honour his memory and the wonderful example he set.
We'll probably share some U Wall experiences and stories.
PB
|
|
Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2018 - 01:48pm PT
|
Thanks Greg.
Likewise!
PB
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2018 - 02:15pm PT
|
But, as someone else said upthread, the gear list for that didn't look very cryptic. Nonsense. It's obvious you don't need a #4 Camalot, that is all. Can you tell a blue from a green alien from 140 ft, and how many? No, you really can't, and during an on-sight such mistakes add up to make or break - big time - especially for such a long pitch at such a high level. Do you carry 6 yellow, or 6 greens, or should it be nuts - oops, now you have no gear. To completely nail something like that during an on-sight - to the degree of having like 3-4 pcs of gear hanging from your harness with only about that many pieces left to place - SUPER unusual. If it's for real - super competent combined with a LOT of luck.
|
|
Timmc
climber
BC
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2018 - 02:21pm PT
|
Looks like Peter Pink Pointed the Shadow with all those pins in place.;)
Will miss the Psyche Ledge soirée unfortunately. Next year I hope.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!