Big Wall Heaven... Above the Clouds

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BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Mar 6, 2017 - 09:55pm PT
Good one Nita😸

Boy oh boy those pics are spectacular! Let'em loose people

Best thread yet‼️




✖️✖️✖️NO POLITICS OR RELIGION ALLOWEDD✖️✖️✖️
fgw

climber
portland, or
Mar 7, 2017 - 09:59am PT
High above South China Sea (on our way to failing):
the albatross

Gym climber
Flagstaff
Mar 7, 2017 - 10:33am PT
PTPP - re: WOEML, I believe McCray and either Schneider or Florine did that route, with the one that wasn't Brian free soloed the first pitch. They also found smashed belay anchors and what appeared to be booby trapped fixed gear (wires sawed off). Fortunately at Brian's insistence they had brought a drill bit (no handle), he had rivets in his chalk bag and were able to do the route in a push. I'm not an El Cap climber so not exactly familiar with which variations they took. McCray went back with Ammon and did the route in a day.
fgw

climber
portland, or
Mar 7, 2017 - 12:30pm PT
:) thanks Mike - yeah all good even if no summit.
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Mar 7, 2017 - 12:35pm PT
hey Mike - which roof? Great shot!
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Mar 7, 2017 - 12:43pm PT
Oh yeah, the roof we looked up at for days and never got to climb through :(
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 7, 2017 - 01:39pm PT
^^ ... that would be the one ...

I think I'm 0 fer 3 if not 0 fer 4 on the New Dawn variation of WOEML.

I'm up for a repair of WOEML with anyone interested.......
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Mar 7, 2017 - 02:05pm PT
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
Mar 7, 2017 - 02:19pm PT
Crazy ass steep. Mid-East Crisis?
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Mar 7, 2017 - 04:35pm PT
That spot on Mideast Crisis is quite airy, you lower out off a bolt and hang out over the void. A minute later you are onto slabby terrain without roofs overhead for the first time in a few days. It is quite the surreal feeling. Still my favorite route in the valley (not as good as Zodiac for sure, but still my favorite). Other than the onerous cam rack I don't understand why it isn't much more popular? Compared to things like the Prow it is not much harder, but much wilder and less beaten out. Going hammerless is quite easy via the roof variation too.
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Mar 7, 2017 - 04:57pm PT
Great shots Moof.

hey Mike, thought of doing any walls lately? ;)
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 7, 2017 - 05:21pm PT

K8 setting out on one of the crux A4 pitches of KAOS





Higher up on the same pitch, note all the mank beneath her for "pro". Blow it here and you could rip a lot of gear.





Hooking on KAOS
the albatross

Gym climber
Flagstaff
Mar 7, 2017 - 05:23pm PT
Mike - I believe Hans may have posted a brief story and I pasted on to Brian's thread. What I most remember Brian telling me is they were drilling with just the bit in their hand and getting fairly creative in their 27-30? Hour push on WOEML. And that some of the fixed gear looked intentionally sabotaged.


Edit: damn I miss that man, you told me for years that was the plan, but sure wished you could have held out a little longer. RIP
Avery

climber
New Zealand
Mar 7, 2017 - 05:39pm PT
Great pics!!

Thanks to all.
the albatross

Gym climber
Flagstaff
Mar 7, 2017 - 06:27pm PT
Thanks for posting that Mike. From what I remember of Brian he was fairly nonchalant about the whole ascent, as if sending El Cap onsight in a sub 30 hour push was no big deal. I've never met anyone who was so competent, and so not afraid of anything even death.
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Mar 7, 2017 - 07:37pm PT
Yeah Pete, that's showin K8 The Gr8 in her badazzery!

💋
duncan

climber
London, UK
Mar 8, 2017 - 01:52am PT

You all know where this is. October 1981, after a damp night at Camp 5, it was cool to climb above the clouds.

fgw, is that Tioman Island? I'm interested in longer routes in that part of the world.
fgw

climber
portland, or
Mar 8, 2017 - 08:40am PT
fgw, is that Tioman Island? I'm interested in longer routes in that part of the world.
yes - be happy to share what little I know (at least can point out some local contacts).

Cochamo Valley - morning view from a bivy.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 8, 2017 - 09:10am PT
^Now THAT is big wall heaven above the clouds!
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Mar 8, 2017 - 02:13pm PT
Brian on Bad Seed
Messages 41 - 60 of total 123 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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