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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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take it on the road!! Vegas in April Salt lake in may, Denver in june, Banff in July, Vancouver in August,
you can tell her it is a tax write off!!!!!! a business trip!! and you can drop by Smith Rocks on the way home, oh wait, oops, did i just mention a climbing area?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Ed Bannister is correct. You should!
Get Tony Yaniro to present at a few of these? Name recognition, baby.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 13, 2017 - 09:27am PT
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Is it like a selfie if I bump this thread?
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Mar 13, 2017 - 10:03am PT
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We will cut you some slack Kris
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 14, 2017 - 02:03pm PT
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Wild Times in High Places!
Mike Lechlinski, prior to the FA, West Side Story, Magician west face, 1983:
Two shows still remaining: Wednesday and Thursday night!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 14, 2017 - 02:16pm PT
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Bummed that I missed last night's Santa Monica show. My office is walking distance to that REI but both the wife and oldest were sick, so duty called. Got my guide though and can't wait to get out there and put it to good use.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 14, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
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WEST SIDE STORY, 1983
West Side Story is a route to which I contributed much grist, but I was not to be present for the completion of the climb. These were committing face climbing adventures, steep enough to warrant using hooks for some of the bolt placements.
A couple pitches off the deck, at the start of the third lead, I left the belay, underclinging and laybacking a 5.8 flake. Leaving the security of the flake, I headed up into a steeper section of rock with decent features for 5.9/10 face climbing. After linking up a series of moves in the blankness, I was a ways out from my last protection, and it was time to drill, but I couldn’t let go to drill and the only hook placement I could find was a tiny little flake no bigger than a thumbnail. The feature was just thick enough to accept the tip of a Leeper flat. It also had to be weighted at a 45° angle, so it was pretty tricky to drill the hole without disrupting my stance, because I was leaning diagonally off the tiny flake and pushing off smears with my toes.
After nervously hand drilling the hole, I pushed the bolt in with my thumb very carefully and quickly clipped in the rope. I slowly cranked down with the wrench to tighten the hanger into the rock, the flake snapped just as I finished, and I swung on to the bolt. With a short jerk on the rope, Mike caught me and when Mari looked up from below, she wasn't talking about Mike when she yelled, "Someone's looking out for you, Roy!"
I thought to myself, "Well, that someone is supposed to be me, and I'm not doing a very good job!"
We were getting pretty good at drilling on lead, and sometimes we’d get greedy and try to do a whole pitch, or a good part of it, consecutively putting in the necessary bolts, without returning to the belay for a rest. With this ethos in mind, I climbed higher and when I began to feel run out, having pushed plenty far past my previous bolt, I found a place where I might stop and try to drill. It was quite steep and smeary for the feet, yet it was a natural stance. I found I could drop my arms without falling off, and again I started drilling away, but things weren't going so well.
The drill bit was dull and it began binding and I started complaining. I was getting weary. My feet weren't holding and I didn't think I was going to get the bolt in before falling off, when Mike shouted: “Quick … I'll put a Leeper point and a fresh bit on your trail line and you can pull it up, smack the tip of the hook in the hole with your hammer, take aid from it, and start over!"
It worked. After completing that bolt placement, I continued climbing and got about 15 or 20 feet above the bolt, started crimping and laybacking a diagonal edge in the pristine rock, opting to point my right toe down along the contour of the feature, when my foot popped and I sailed out of there, dropping over 30 feet through open air. Jerking down onto the end of the rope, I banged my ankle, and I was pretty shook up.
That was it for me on that route; I lowered to the ground where Mari joined me, took a good look at my rattled nerves, handed me a water bottle, lit her pipe for me, and politely suggested I forfeit my dance card for the rest of the day. Owing to a frostbite injury I sustained to my fingers on a routine training climb later that year, my experience on West Side Story would prove to be the last time I would join in the fun and games of doing new routes in the Needles.
Roy McClenahan
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Mar 14, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
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love the way once in awhile ^^^ a treasure chest sunk in the murk burps up a fully leavened bubble of well digested angst.
i'm packin' the hoopty, a man cannot thrive on juniper pollen alone
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 14, 2017 - 04:43pm PT
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Beautiful Roy.
Today those 1/4" bolts you so boldly placed are in need of replacement. Liquid Sky is done, by a generous team who asked me to keep their names private. Not because they screwed it, they did a perfect job.
I have the ASCA equipment to fix the others you all did on that face, but I'll need a couple competent people to team up. It'll be a bit of a rigging job.
All hail Greg Barnes and his ASCA, and the generous contributors and companies which make his efforts possible.
Edit. Roy there's a route name in there, "True Grist."
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Mar 14, 2017 - 05:55pm PT
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I agree with Tar- that shot IN the Nautilus... I'm drooling over that line now. This Fall It's on the list!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 14, 2017 - 06:12pm PT
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I've been called out for sandbagging that one. P1 and the topout might be a letter grade or two harder than my rating. The topout is definitely height dependant.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Mar 15, 2017 - 08:26am PT
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Hey Kris........bring the show to Kernville: Gateway To The Needles! First beer is on me! Of course, you'll have to save your appetite for some 'Igor Unchained' (13.5%) from KRBC.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 15, 2017 - 08:48am PT
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West Side Story, 1983:
I took a long fall, from the vicinity of Mike's stance on lead, stopping just above the flake.
After retreating to the ground, I took this picture of Mike, ever the faithful captain of his ship, going up to "see what happened".
As if some sort of forensic analysis was required!
Ha ha. His yeoman went a sailing, that is all.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 15, 2017 - 09:02am PT
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love the way once in awhile ^^^^^
a treasure chest, sunk in the murk, burps up !
a fully leavened bubble of well digested angst.
i'm packin' the hoopty, a man cannot thrive on juniper pollen alone.
hooblie, climber, - from out where the anecdotes roam, - Mar 14, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 15, 2017 - 09:48am PT
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Of course, you'll have to save your appetite for some 'Igor Unchained' (13.5%) from KRBC.
I hate to disappoint, but 13.5% would be a lethal dose for me, even if it is named after a classic climb. After all the scrapes I've got away with I'd hate to get taken out by an ale. I'll have to stick to their basic IPA or Isabella Blonde.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 15, 2017 - 10:09am PT
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Wish I was not in the bay area still! :(
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Mar 15, 2017 - 12:00pm PT
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Looking forward to the slideshow tomorrow. Really in the mood for the needles, can't wait to get up there. If anyone wants to make the hike in this spring before the road opens up, let me know.
Tommy on P5 of Atlantis
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mar 15, 2017 - 02:54pm PT
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BUMP - see you tonight in Northridge =)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 15, 2017 - 04:14pm PT
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West face of The Magician, when it was still tabula rasa.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 17, 2017 - 05:47am PT
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TFPU, Tony. Can't imagine it won't be top shelf history and entertainment...
It was top shelf history and entertainment. The slides, or whatever they call them nowadays, were excellent. The photo of Guy's knee might have been the most interesting. The climbing feats were astounding.
The bit on the Gorge of Despair was my favorite. Remote places are very special.
In all a great show, even the non-climbers in attendance found it fascinating as they proved in the Q&A session at the end.
There was an old curmudgeon sitting against the wall. I found out too late it was Reilly. Dude, you left too early! Sorry to have missed you.
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