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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 24, 2017 - 09:34am PT
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Ghost, that's above yer pay grade. It was certainly not even possible for Fritz given his citizenship status.
Not only above my pay grade, but I'm not American and wasn't living in the US then so it's also none of my business. But it wasn't Stammberger. It was... can't remember. Famous American alpinists...
It was all over the climbing rags for a while.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 25, 2017 - 10:31am PT
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Although this forum can be ankles to eyeballs in garbage ...
It's encouraging to see a substantive post like this draw out some good contributors, who would seem to be standing by in the wings, ready and willing to post up!
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BJ: thanks for that link to the Robert Schaller/Tom Frost story!
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Here is the Amazon link for Takeda's An Eye at the Top of the World, sold for one penny plus shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/Eye-Top-World-Terrifying-C-I/dp/1560258454/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1487985461&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=Pete+Takeda+An+eye+on+top+of+the+world
The reviews alone will make you wince! Ouch!
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Here's the book by Robert Schaller's partner, M.S. Kohli, Spies in the Himalayas:
https://www.amazon.com/Spies-Himalayas-Missions-Perilous-Studies/dp/0700612238/ref=pd_cp_14_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6ZNC1BWBE7THNPE7G2X6
Much more substantive and gets much better reviews.
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But back to Fritz.
Pennington's book on Stammberger, Husband, Lover, Spy, BTW, is available on Amazon for one penny + shipping, just like Pete's book!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/188402503X/sr=1-1/qid=1487917860/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=&qid=1487917860&sr=1-1
Peter Kray's book, The God of Skiing, featuring Stanmberger on the cover, (and presumably in the text ) gets almost unanimously five star reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/The-God-Skiing-Peter-Kray/dp/0692028331
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 25, 2017 - 11:14am PT
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Doug Robinson has a complete original set of Mountain Gazette.
At some point I might get them on toy loan and I will do some scanning!
It was an influential read and the only time I'd encountered any reference to Tirich Mir, until Hamie's post.
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Here's a link to Jeff Long's award-winning article on Stammberger, Searching for Superman, Rock and Ice/Ascent #234:
https://issuu.com/rock-and-ice/docs/234-s/80?ff=true&e=1647928/35236614
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 25, 2017 - 08:29pm PT
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Tami
Yes Doug H was there. Hope you enjoyed his slide show. I never saw any of the photos, living off in the sticks. I think that Murray F took some pix of the remains, but for official reference only. The remains were "committed" to an adjacent crevasse. It seemed like a bad omen.......
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 26, 2017 - 10:10am PT
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Alex Bertulis, as much as I love him, is the OG troll and he could be right! ;-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2017 - 05:10pm PT
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Really good posts everyone!
It's always so good to see Tarbuster throw down on something.
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Feb 26, 2017 - 09:19pm PT
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I have the book (it's unreadable), as I was interested in Tirich Mir after hiking to it's flanks alone in the fall of 1992, so I collected info. about it, maps, and expedition accounts, etc.
I lived in Pakistan at the time, was studying Urdu, and used my vacation time to explore the Hindu Kush and Himalayan foothills on my time off, in particular the area around Tirich Mir, then less so Nanga Parbat and Rakaposhi and Ultar in winter.
I hiked south from Zani An as an approach recon to Tirch Mir for future trips (great views of the Hindu Raj from that little lake). I was surprised to see there were flat spots on high ridges that had been used as anti-aircraft batteries to counter Soviet MiGs straying into Pakistani airspace during the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan from 1979-89. Seems the Russians had the tendency to “accidently” bomb Pakistani villages over the border. The Japanese did many ascents in 1960-70s in the Hindu Kush, and there are some great earlier write ups of that range in the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research’s “Mountain World” series.
Not hard to see a solo traveler getting the chop there just from the approach terrain, much less trying to summit a difficult 25k’ peak that didn’t have an easy walk-up. Ashraf Aman told me it was very cold and difficult summit, not any easier than K2 (he’s summited both).
Even when I was traveling there in 1992-93, there were occasional news reports of trekkers getting killed by zenophobic hillbillies in Northern Pakistan. A Norwegian hiker had recently been beheaded nearby. Passing north of Peshawar through Indus Kohistan to get there was sketchy depending on where you stopped. But once far out of the Northwest Frontier province and into the Northern Areas where locals spoke Khowar, it was much more mellow and friendly, as it was a different (much more Western friendly) culture. It was not a total surprise, but nonetheless terribly tragic, that Ned Gillette was killed trekking near Kohistan in a similar attack, as was the horrific 2013 Nanga Parbat basecamp mass murder of 10 climbers/porters.
I suspect there was possible Company involvement in those areas the 1970s, as I met a fellow medical resident during my training Pennsylvania in 2004-5 who was from South Waziristan, and it was clear by his stories that his father worked with the American government, which, even in the 1960s anticipated a Soviet invasion and was already planning a counter strategy. Part of the propaganda was dropping leaflets and spreading news about invaders from the north (Soviets) who were godless people (gasp!) with no morals and who planned to invade and pillage (which was true). Thus when the Soviets finally arrived, locals were already revved up and keen on exterminating them.
By the early 1990s the Soviet invasion was history, but the Stinger missiles passed out like candy canes to Afghani mujahideen weren’t. There was concern that these sophisticated missiles, supplied covertly by the US and crucial to the defeat of the Soviet invasion, might fall into the wrong hands. I personally and openly heard rumors about the need for contractors to go village to village and offer $100k/ each to buy the missiles back. But Pathans like their weapons, and even if they made less than $1 a day, they preferred having a Stinger in the footlocker of their stone hovel over those terms of largesse, thus very few Stingers were re-collected.
I suspect it much, much more likely that Fritz Stammberger might have died on the mountain or gotten killed by a local criminal than any sort of spy vs spy intrigue. As I camped alone at Zani An, two ragged looking locals traveling over the ridge approached my camp with Kalashnikovs slung over their shoulders. We were far from the nearest village, and I would have been an easy target had their intentions been criminal.
EDIT: As to the John Long article in Rock + Ice, wouldn't it be plausible that Fritz would have left a cache of stuff in Nepal if he was planning to return for another attempt in a few years, especially after dealing with the issue of excessive freight cost?
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Feb 27, 2017 - 12:19am PT
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I thought Pete Taketa wrote some great (and hilarious) articles about some of his El Cap climbs in Climbing, with amazing photos (by Epperson?). The one on Sunkist (and also was it Aurora?) was inspirational as I was learning to aid and scratch at Valley grade Vs. Sounds like his book didn't measure up?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 27, 2017 - 01:14pm PT
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Yeah, Katie is the best editor that I have worked with.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Now that we seem to have run out of things to say about Fritz, here are some items of trivia about Tirich Mir (TM).
TM at 25,300' is located in the Hindu Kush, northern Pakistan, on the left side. K2, Broad Peak etc are on the right side, in the Karakoram.
The FA was made by a Norwegian expedition in 1950, led by Arne Naess (elder).
His nephew, also named Arne Naess (younger) married Diana Ross of the Supremes. He led a successful expedition to Everest in 1985, in which Bonington summited by the original route. He (AN younger) later died in a rappelling accident in South Africa. For a long time I thought that these two were the same person!
An early "lighthearted" attempt on TM was made in 1938 by British adventurers/ travellers Miles and Beryl Smeeton. Their sirdar was Tenzing, who later said "We were climbing for pleasure." Remember when?
A repeat ascent was made by Whillans "We plodded our way to the summit".
Here's a photo of me, after an unplanned open bivy, low on TM. I'm eating an old can of fruit which we found in an abandoned Japanese food cache. Luckily I had my Swiss army knife, with the handy-dandy can opening attachment.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sorry hamie but that photo makes it look like the fruit went through ya awful dang fast
Bad Tami! Go to your room!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Tami
Yes, could have been. There were no labels, and lots of rust etc. We had to open several cans before we found something palatable and safe looking. Lots of smelly fish things. This was likely peaches. We were hungry. :)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yes, the excerpt from Galen's Throne Room of the Mountain Gods, (scans posted by BG on the previous page) is a fun read.
In it, there's this non sequitur little gem (to the context of the OP), which comes from Rowell, offering his opinion concerning the AAC and potential regulation of guiding:
Ironically, the very issue that had originally raised Putnam's ire against Wick and myself was our opposition to his plan for the club to certify and regulate mountain guides. I believe that the ethos of mountaineering was basically incompatible with firm regulations. We could have a whole thread just based on that excerpt!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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But wait, that's not all folks!
For those of you who may not have drilled down into the Fritz Stammberger Facebook page, here are three Facebook posts which I found of interest.
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The first, an excerpt from the Aspen Times, may be referring to items which you, Hamie, or perhaps one of your compatriots came upon, which may have belonged to Fritz?
Aspen Times via Facebook, the asterisks are mine:
However, during the summer of 1978 a Canadian climber reported that a partially mummified, unclothed body had been found on the upper slopes of the mountain but could not determine the age, size, or length of time since death, and did not bring a part down for more complete identification.... The article states that during five days on the mountain, [one mountaineer] *found a pair of sunglasses, and an ice ax and a map*, which he believed might have belonged to Stammberger, in a crevasse.
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The second, a Facebook post from John McMurtry:
The asterisks are mine:
Fritz was my sponsor When I was a student ski racer in Aspen. I lived with him while I was attending Aspen High School. Many wonderful memories. He was a great friend, mentor and role model. He stayed with our family the night before he flew out of Denver on his last fateful trip. He forgot his passport so we had to put it on the next plane to New York. I remember asking him where was he going. *He would only say it was top secret*. Three weeks after Fritz was reported missing, Bill Dunaway, the publisher/owner of the Aspen Times, organized a volunteer search team to try to find Fritz. I believe they were able to trace him and found the last hut he stayed in. They found tracks in the snow but they disappeared. I think of Fritz often, a friend and remarkable man!
Could it be that Fritz just liked to joke around about this top-secret stuff and his second wife, Pennington, ran with it?
Or did he accurately confide the truth of his clandestine operations to a young John McMurtry?
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And third, this impassioned recollection by Anton "Tony" Uhl, appearing in a post from his blog and linked to the Fritz Stammberger Facebook page. Essentially another tribute to Stammberger's avuncular nature and his propensity for mentoring, something which Jeff Long portrays quite well in his article.
Again, asterisks are mine:
When I was 10, I became good friends with one of my father’s ski instructors; Fritz Stammberger. The man was 6′-4″ and had been on the first successful expedition to climb the Himalayas without oxygen.
Running the press at age 10
He was a master printer from Germany and gave me one of my fist jobs running the Heidelberg press in his shop in the back of the Aspen Times. Nowadays it would probably be criminal on some level to put a child to work on such a dangerous machine, but that was a different era and I loved my job. It suited my character and supported my ego.
I was precocious. Fritz would challenge me but always rein me back in. He would say, “You’re not a man until you’ve climbed Mount Everest” or, “You’re not a man until you’ve seen your wife have a baby.”
It would drive my mother crazy when Fritz and I would show up at her mountain restaurant on a snowy day with no gloves and open parkas. “Real men don’t ski with gloves.” Caught up in the spirit I would say something cocky and Fritz would respond with, “What does the world hate?” He’s look me in the eye and then answer for me. “Everyone hates a smart-ass.” Then, it was only moments before we would continue our banter.
I met this gorgeous Canadian model in Dad’s ski school and introduced her to Fritz. They were soon married and pregnant. *They named their son after me*. I was privy to Diane stark naked with her beautiful huge belly the morning Fritz rushed her off to the hospital to give birth.
When I had arrived at their apartment that morning the story of the day (there always was one!) was how their wiener dog, Lumpy, had drawn blood when he jumped up and bit Fritz in the wiener in the shower.
There was nothing weird about my visits to Fritz and Diane’s. As I said, it was a different era. People were straight-forward, practical, respectful and responsible. There was no question of what was appropriate as propriety was an unspoken law that everyone seemed to understand implicitly. Naked pregnant bellies and wiener dogs were just part of life. These were the days when, if you slipped on ice in a ski resort the response was, “Weren’t you paying attention?” not, “Who are you going to sue?”
Fritz Stammberger
Fritz and Diane moved into the house across the alley from our house. There was no question that any 11-year old kid who could run a Heidelberg press could easily be trusted to take care of a few month old infant, metal safety pins and all. Besides, if there was any problem, my parents were just across the alley and the town itself was only a few blocks long. Fritz and Diane wouldn’t be far.
As Anton grew older I was a favorite babysitter. Fritz would always say, “You should be a psychiatrist.” This was his commentary on my diplomacy and the ease with which I could affect the trusting responses of children and adults alike. I would swell with pride and make some comment. “What does everybody hate?” Fritz would say.
But being a smart-ass was an accusation that would continue to follow me throughout my life.
Self-confidence was something I had learned from Fritz and my hard-working but life-loving parents. It amplified the voice of my muse. It led me to take unreasonable chances filled with faith and confidence that the voice of the universe wouldn’t lie to me. It was the voice that led me to so many great successes in my life and that helped me make lemonade, as they say, when it seemed I’d been dealt a lemon.
Self-confidence is not arrogance, though this would often be the accusation from friends, family or companions who felt the ease and serendipity in my life was somehow unjust as they struggled along.
Truth be told, I was struggling daily in my own ways and it didn’t take many missteps to see that the voice of the universe was my best and most reliable guide and friend.
Recently I was at a party at a blacksmith’s studio and ran into a friend I hadn’t seen or heard from in over 40 years. After a few minutes of enthusiastic recollections, I was genuinely surprised when he commented, “I was always amazed by your focus and determination to go after what you wanted.”
No. I wasn’t being a smart-ass. I was simply over-achieving in response to my feeling of never measuring up or being enough.
I suppose I could thank my over-achieving Mom for this, with many of the same feelings herself, but it wasn’t until I was in my mid-thirties in Hollywood when my close friend, Ray Underwood, would ask me a question that would change my life.
“You are so brilliant and talented. Why are you so full of self-sabotage?”
It was the first time I had heard the term. It wasn’t the last time I would reflect on those words. I would hear it another way some 20 years later. “Why would you put your best effort into running a marathon and then quit just short of the finish line?”
I had some work to do.
From this blog post:
https://antonuhl.wordpress.com/2009/06/26/youre-not-a-man/
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https://www.facebook.com/pg/Fritz-Stammberger-107091146037606/posts/?ref=page_internal
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Great stuff, Tarbuster. That machine, in their shop next to Carl's Phamacy, was loud as hell. Bet that kid/man still has ink on his fingers.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2017 - 06:32pm PT
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Tarbuster owns it once again...
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2017 - 11:12pm PT
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Tarbuster, thank you for the amazing conversation tonight. You are still one of the great minds of climbing, just like I remember from 35 years ago.
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travingo
Mountain climber
Hawaii, Maui, Kula
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Nov 15, 2017 - 11:56pm PT
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I know his son very we'll, he is also a badass and adrenaline junkie. A book could be written about Anton's life that would be as entertaining as the story about his father.
Fritz's son looks like his twin. The legend lives on!
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