Ticking the offwidth list... 12/3/06 TR

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Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Feb 24, 2010 - 09:27am PT

jaybro,
do you speak of deliverance at pie shop?

thats a great scum of a scoop. a bit grainy if i recall, but it's pie shop d.g.

Swami Jr.

Trad climber

Bath, NY

Feb 24, 2010 - 10:07am PT

thanks ed. always great to see your posts.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 24, 2010 - 10:34am PT

Ed I meant deliverence @ Pinnacle Peak, (.11c as rated by the first clean ascent, mine) Scottsdale Az, where those other routes Wideload mentioned are

climber

Just surfin' the tsunami of life...

Feb 24, 2010 - 11:27am PT

I remember reading this thread when it was first posted in '06.

So Ed...how goes the list-whittling over the last 3 years?

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 24, 2010 - 11:38am PT

He's gotten a lot done, but I think the lists are growing

I think he's gonna rope gun us up this one;

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2010 - 11:58am PT

Where are we, yes, many OWs have gone down in the last four years. At the moment my back is recovering from the effort, I fear...

Banana Dreams 4/09 scoped out no attempt yet
Cookie, Left attempts 2/07 & 3/08 tricky exit moves
This and That 12/06 the OP
Nothing Special (Mongolian Clusterf*#k) 12/06 & 1/07 off size for my heel-toe, run out on top
Chingando 12/06, 5/06, 10/07 & other times, classic
Reed's Pinnacle, Left 10/07 much tamer with modern cams
Bong's Away, Center 2/00 & 1/09 great climb that should be done a lot more often
Hourglass, Right 10/08 late start and slow approach got us up the first pitch
Gollum, Left 1/07 an improbable offwidth roof that is amazing
Orange Juice Avenue 1/09 oddly strenuous
Secret Storm 3/07 crux is "5.7 chim."
Doggie Do 2/04, 4/04, & 3/07 arm length can get you through crux, this is very slick granite
Geek Towers, Center checked approach 3/09
Geek Towers, Right checked approach 3/09
Worst Error, Right checked approach 11/08
Crack of Doom checked approach 11/08
Crack of Dispair checked approach 11/08

justthemaid

climber

Jim Henson's Basement

Feb 24, 2010 - 12:00pm PT

Just bitter, jealous and passing through.

spyork

Social climber

A prison of my own creation

Feb 24, 2010 - 01:36pm PT

I want to go try This and That. Maybe soon would be good!

climber

Just surfin' the tsunami of life...

Feb 24, 2010 - 01:48pm PT

Not bad whittling on that ticklist considering:

1. Your body's falling apart ;-)
2. You're dealing with OW's, which is why your body's falling apart ;-) ;-)

Jaybro--What's the name of that horror-fest?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2010 - 02:18pm PT

steve, we should go and "shoot it"
I see segments in the up coming "Wiggle in the Wide" video that are on the "classic offwidths" list... interspersed with "talking heads" and footage documenting the visits to the ER....

maybe we can cross-sports boundaries and have some bicycle riders talking about road rash curatives...

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Feb 24, 2010 - 02:21pm PT

Put "The Cleft" on your list. It's in the same grade range. Do you ever get out to IC?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2010 - 03:12pm PT

the three "5.9" OW in Meyers' list are:

The Cleft
Peter Pan
Maple Jam

I haven't done The Cleft yet, but probably on the list once I start climbing again...

IC, not yet, but the Chuck Pratt prophesy from his article The View From Dead Horse Point: "behold the future of crack climbing in America" rings in my head...

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 24, 2010 - 03:39pm PT

L, that's Gabriel, 13b/c, Zion -pretty sure Ed has a dark mattter trick up his sleeve for that one....

I've never done the Cleft, either.

Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Feb 24, 2010 - 03:42pm PT

mock the wind.
it is a very amiable and accomodating fluid.

it merely relocates itself from area's of high pressure to low.

le_bruce

climber

Oakland: what's not to love?

Feb 24, 2010 - 04:14pm PT

Thanks Ed, I enjoyed this! Nothing as satisfying as working through a ticklist...

You really ought to look at The Riddler up at Little Wing. It's a beautiful line, and the sweetest kind of wide there is (beautiful hands in the back!)

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Apr 19, 2010 - 01:21pm PT

Great thread, Ed-

I am very interested in doing some OW climbing on my upcoming trip to the Valley. i've avoided them for nearly 45 years, but somehow am beginning to find a certain faxcination with them. I think it must be the elegant lines that they present. Hence the thread I started a few weeks back on the OW Training Circuit.

My list now:

Uncle Fanny
Trial by Fire
Little John, Left Side
Doggie Do (toprope)
Bongs Away, Center
Generator Crack (toprope)
This and That
Whim
Although I will be in Yosemite nearly 3 weeks, I don't think there will be enough time other that make a small dent in this list, as as I have lots of other routes that I consider "unfinished business" from previous visits; i.e.: "The Caverns", "Goodrich Pinnacle, Right Side."
and "Hanging Teeth."