Kim Schmitz Has Died

Kim Schmitz, one of the country’s top climbers, has ascended some of the steepest, most remote granite towers in the world, but his challenge today is learning how to walk again.

A Jackson Hole resident, Schmitz, 68, was on small teams that pioneered dizzying routes in Pakistan’s Karakoram Mountains in the late 1970s, setting new climbing standards along the way. His decades-long career in the hills, however, included far more than sunny summits.

He’s been flattened by an avalanche, nearly crippled in a devastating fall in the Tetons. He helplessly watched the life fade from a companion’s eyes. Rescuers and friends twice pulled Schmitz from death’s threshold. Lingering effects from injuries and more than 30 surgeries, plus the ravages of addiction, pneumonia and cancer have left him bent and slow. He can’t stand up straight, has to walk with a cane.

His etched face reflects the thousand glacial crevasses he’s crossed. His blue eyes appear to see beyond the horizon.

Angus M Thuermer jr., February 5, 2015

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!!!!!!!

to Kim Schmitz, 69 years of age.

http://www.wyofile.com/blog/gifted-lucky-climber-learns-walk/


Idyll in C4, 1970.

I will never forget Kim telling me how he had been "haired-out" by some 5.7 moves that his GF Marti had led that afternoon. We were standing around listening to their artichokes cook in the pressure cooker on the Coleman.

Marti was gracious enough to say nothing. I probably said something inane. Kim was simply one of the nicest people with whom one could pass time. He gave advice when asked and there was no BS, no sand-bagging of the n00bs.

I've always appreciated that, Kim. Thanks.