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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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About protecting Ahab: If you are willing to go about half way up the initial wide section (which if you have good technique really isn't too bad) you can get a bomber stopper deep in the crack. From there just continue up until it starts pinching down. Then you start getting fist and wide hands in deep. Here you can use large hexes or medium size friends. Dragging anything up there larger than fist size would be a pain in the ass. Leaving the harness behind for a swami also helps. Harnesses on routes like Ahab suck.
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le_bruce
climber
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Silent Storm
Edge of Night
Anyone done these? They look mighty, and scary as all hell.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Uhhhh, Mark? That is so last century!
le_bruce, do you mean 'Secert Storm?'
Roger
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Secret storm and Edge o night are both excellenet climbs, but you have to want to do a climb like that in the first place..
That looks very cool, Russ. Think I did it with Henry Barber's gut back in'72, though.
even though I didn't
get to josh 'till '77.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 14, 2007 - 05:16pm PT
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A bump for Phat-ness™™™™ on the front page.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 19, 2007 - 01:14pm PT
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Nobody seems to mention the Vendetta, which I found to be full of thrills. The books says something about a wild 3rd pitch, which I thought was a misprint since the really good OW is on the 2nd. Worth finding out about fer yerself.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 19, 2007 - 01:22pm PT
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Vendetta is kickAsss™™™™
Here is a post from the Twilight Zone thread:
Russ Writes: Vendetta: me and Doug VanGina.... last pitch was interesting... big loose flake wiggling in the crack.... dirty top out in a small roof. Went and asked Klemmens about it.... he says, "you guys did that thing???..... probably the second ascent.... nobody does that last pitch!" Then he started laughing.....
Way easier than the TZ though IMO.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=129144
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Kirkwood, CA
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May 14, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
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Thinking about doing chingando soon.
How does chingando compare to midterm in terms of full body workout? I remember almost puking on midterm, all four times ive been on it.
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Barcus
Social climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
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May 14, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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Bwahahahah...Climb till ya puke!
Marcus
Evil too!
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tom Carter
Social climber
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May 14, 2011 - 08:42pm PT
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I'm with Mark. Hauling all that sh#t up there is nuts.
I learned (and would have to re-learn) ow tech buildering with Vern in Berkeley. Sproul plaza columns etc. So smooth and not featured so you have to use and master the techs. Try it and things like the climbs mentioned above won't require puking or huge cams.
Easier said than done - but true.
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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May 15, 2011 - 12:13am PT
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Thank god (and Ed) for threads like this...
:-)
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Feb 28, 2016 - 04:20pm PT
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This is one of the most striking lines at the cliff. Awesome climbing with great friends, what more could a guy ask for? (shots from a couple days ago)
Ed we were thinkin' of you. gotta get you up here the day Linda leads this, i wanna get some shots from above.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Feb 28, 2016 - 04:23pm PT
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yo Russ (the fish) that gear sling you made me for wide cracks is da bomb brah, thanks!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2016 - 06:20pm PT
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wonderful, yes The Blond would cruise but she is too polite to just dance up that stuff...
was thinking of you all when I was practicing my equanimity trying to get back from Oak Ridge, TN by way of Dallas on an epic...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Bloody karbunckle style bump!
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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nice swami shot of swilliam walter! i seem to remember another sweet shot you had from above, perhaps billy doin' some leavitation moves while tryin' not to hurl?
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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found old Zander post from 2006 with Napoleon's plans especially for Day1 and Day6
Area/Day 1
Moby Dick Left 9 106
Peter Pan 9 100
Ahab 10b 106
Slack left 10b 104
Peter Pan left 10b/c 100
....................
..............................
Area/Day 6
Worst Error left 9 344
Crack of Doom 10a 346
Crack of Dispair 10a 346
pretty impressive. As for plans for Day1 I done it two, but for Day6 only 1.5 route[sis!] in two days weekend. Crack of Doom&Despair seems so doable in one day link up- but never worked for me yet
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Vendetta, another full value route!
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