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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2006 - 07:09pm PT
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Russ, Laura...do you remember the story about Howie driving into the wall of a bowling alley when he was in college???
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MikeW
Trad climber
Sterling, VA
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Dec 14, 2006 - 12:51am PT
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I had the great fortune to climb with Howie (and Eric Janoscrat and Cal Swoager) during the great days at Seneca Rocks in the early 1980's. Howie and I were the heaviest pair you ever saw on a rope. It used to really freak people out to see two guys over 200 lbs climbing with just a double rack of RP's! Howie hauled me up some of the best climbs that I ever did and even though the last time I saw him was at my wedding over 20 years ago, I always thought about him whenever I drove past UDC or Carderock.
Some of the others stories of Howies driving antics do not even come close to the "fun" we used to have driving from DC to Seneca on a Friday night to meet up with Eric J (and Barb) and Cal S. The best driving story from Seneca doesn't involve Howie but Eric taking a mortally injured John Gregory from Church Rocks to the hospital in record time with me playing chase car in my pickup but that is another story for another time.
I will miss Howie and I will go back into my office and look through my climbing photos to see if I can find any good pics of the big guy to post here.
 mike whitman --
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Mike McGill
Trad climber
Catonsville, MD
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Dec 16, 2006 - 12:39am PT
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My condolences to June...
I met Howie in the early 90's through Bobby D in Philadelphia. I later relocated to Salt Lake City for work in '97, which is about the time Howie retired there. We climbed together from time to time. My wife and I had Thanksgiving dinner with he and June in '99. The climbing was great, but I remember the conversations we had way more than the climbing. He knew something about everything. He thought I was nuts when I told him I was transferring back East to Baltimore. It's hard to believe Howie has passed. He was a force of nature, yet he exuded this sense of calmness that made everyone around him feel instantly comfortable.
Here's a story he once told me: Howie was driving up Big Cottonwood Canyon to go skiing at Solitude Ski Resort (about 15 miles outside of SLC). About five miles up the road is an "S" curve. Also at the "S" curve is a small sport climing area about 300 yards up the mountain. As climbers often do, Howie briefly glanced up at the cliff as he passed by. To his surprise, he sees somebody standing on top of the cliff. (To set the scene, its January, the cliff is at about 6,000 feet, so there is a ton of snow all over, and the cliff is perched into the side of a 45 degree slope. The most prominent feature is a 20 foot roof). Anyway, as Howie drives by, he sees the person standing at the lip of this massive roof fall off! It's about 70 feet to a small talus field from the lip of the roof. Howie slams on the brakes, jumps out of his car, runs up the snow covered trail and starts searching for the guy. It takes him a few minutes, but sure enough, he finds the guy in deep deep snow -- still alive! He's groaning and bleeding, but alive. Howie then starts yelling for help, eventually gets somebody with a cell phone to call an ambulance, and the kid survives. He was apparently in some youth group hiking trip and thought it would be a neat view from the edge of the roof. Unbelievable, right? If Howie hadn't been driving up the road and looked up at that instant, the kid wouldn't have been found until Spring. I hope that kid, wherever he is, raises a glass in Howie's name when he finds out Howie is gone. I know I did.
Mike McGill
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ghand
Sport climber
Golden,Colorado
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Dec 16, 2006 - 01:26am PT
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Mike,
Good to hear from you.
Howard told me that same story as we were driving up the canyon one day. And he always told great stories. He was so animated and full of excitement. You felt you were there with him while it was happening. Let me know if you come out west again and we will meet Bob D down in Taos.
Greg
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jdbremer
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Dec 16, 2006 - 04:32pm PT
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What can one say here that hasn't already been said about Howard? I consider myself lucky to have had Howard as friend and at this point value the great memories of time spent with him. Reading everyone's stories here has been wonderful and brings back one's own memories of Howard. Jack Beatty recalls well the incident of "Howard vs. the Tree" (Howard won, the Tree lost) at the Gunks in 1981 (I think the climb was "Midnight Cowboy", and I believe the tree was the best piece on that first pitch).
I've since heard Ray Snead say he witnessed the same incident (different venue, different tree, same result). I also read here Ray's story of Howard and the pepperoni in Rifle. Well, I know I saw Howard do the same thing with the French equivalent of a pepperoni in the small shop in Verdon in 1984. (The best part were his justifications about “free radicals” and how eating sausages was highly recommended from an athletic performance perspective.) Jesse Guthrie, Matt Lavender and I ran into Howard there that Spring as Howard and Pannell Jones were "touring" the south of France in a brand new Porsche 928 they had taken delivery on in Germany. Needless to say, everyone's stories about Howard's driving were the same on the twisty roads atop the Verdon Gorge (the only good part was the car had an early version of ABS).
As most have noted, his driving escapades were legendary. Besides Verdon, there was the trick of trying to see how far one could "coast" down the big hill starting at the West Virginia/Virginia state line on the way back from Seneca. I'll also never forget his Sirocco, and at the Gunks racing him back up to the Carriage Road from New Paltz at night (as with trees, he never lost). And I will always remember his strength from the story of when he totaled that Sirocco. He rear-ended a truck and wasn't wearing a seatbelt. He described how he straightened his arms on the steering wheel to take the impact. He was pretty sore afterwards, but no doubt a lot better off than he should have been.
Lastly, I echo Greg Hand's comments about having Howard with you meant you weren't going to die. I can't think of anyone else I would have wanted to be with that first time rappelling into the Verdon Gorge.
It was just good to be in his company. I'll miss him and his force in this world.
John Bremer
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muscle beach
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Dec 17, 2006 - 05:12pm PT
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Three photos of Howie, courtesy of John Bremer.
Shady Lady at the 'gunks in '81
Verdon in '84
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muscle beach
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Dec 17, 2006 - 05:31pm PT
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We had a sort of a wake for Howie in Boulder last night at the Rio. Thanks to Mo Hershoff and Susan Schima for organizing. A partial list of attendees:
Bob Barron
John Bremer
Jim Erickson
Inger Gallo
Greg Hand
Mary Ann Hand
Dan Hare
Mo Hershoff
Steve Levin
Kent Lugbill
Mike Munger
Susan Schima
Paula Sewall
Ray Snead
Lotus Steele
My apologies for anyone I missed ...
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BoulderLotus
Trad climber
Longmont
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Dec 17, 2006 - 11:03pm PT
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I've been thinking about posting something about Howard, but I have so many memories, and it's been very sad to think of him gone, even though it's been 12 years since I saw him last (at Seneca Rocks). I wanted to share a story. In 1977 Howard and I went on a road trip. Our frist distination was Yosemite. Morry Jaffee hitched a ride. That was an experience in and of itself. But when we three arrived in the Valley, we jumped out of the car and climbed Bishop's Terrace. Morry lead the first pitch. When Howard arrived at the belay and discovered that Morry was belaying him on a single nut (not off his harness), Howie blew up. He ripped Morry a new one, and I think everyone in the Valley could hear. Needless to say we didn't climb with Morry anymore. Howard was very safe. I basically learned to climb (and ski)from him. I learned a lot. After 4 years together, even though it was a very long time ago, I still have fond memories of that man and the time we shared.
As a post scrip, that same trip to the Valley, we met up with Charlie Fowler (a local Carderock friend) in the Yosemite Lodge Cafeteria. He said he didn't have a climbing partner the day before and had gone up and soloed the DNB on Middle Cathedral. A few years later when I went up to climb it myself, I relaized what a feat that was. That day we offered to hook up a rope with Charlie and he led us up Mobey Dick. Howard and I (two Gunks climbers) struggled up the cracks while waltzing the bouldery start. Ofcourse Charlie cruised it. Hope Charlie is OK.
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Hunt Prothro
Social climber
Rohrersville, MD
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Dec 20, 2006 - 12:28pm PT
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I heard about Howard on the Monday night of his death. Adam Ehrlich called me after June called him. It hit me like a ton of bricks, as it did all of us in much the same way it seems. I talked to many people pretty quickly, but have been submerged in a show and unable to sit down on the machine for a while. Mel Banks, Adam E., Tony Rickert, a couple of others, and I went to a dive in Rockville on Wednesday after that Monday to drink beer and talk a bit. By then the e-mails were starting to come in and all the concentric stories with Howard as the focal point. Then I saw Ray's link to the Super Topo site and just this morning logged on to this terrific chain of love. I saw Susan S. a week ago, in MD, and I had talked to Charlie Rollins earlier, too, but had not been in touch with the other Boulder climbers, so I was glad to read of the Rio wake. I wish I had been there. However, right about the same time, on Sunday, the 17th, PM, I was driving home from Seneca after a uniquely warm day for December. It was the first time I had been to Seneca since Howard's death and I wanted to do a route of his for sure. We had climbed together over a very long period of time. The first time I heard his name was at the Gunks in the summer of 1974. Ray Snead and John Stannard and Charlie Rollins and I were walking down the carriage road. Howard was on "Modern Times". Charlie and I had just done it the day before. Stannard said, "Howie is going to kill himself." I said, "Who's Howie?" Howard had more or less just started climbing and I guess Stannard didn't know him that well. He wasn't about to kill himself. I later had plenty of time to find out for myself who Howard was. I was glad to see Lotus's forum filing from a day or two ago. She was one of the first people I thought about when I heard of Howard's death. I'm not so sure Howard ever recovered from her rejection of him after his return from France that first summer, sometime in the late 70's. He had made up his mind to ask her to marry him and I don't think it crossed his mind that it would not be accepted. He was very confident in many ways and it was always a pleasure to climb with him in part because of that confidence and his skill with gear. It was torture getting his pieces out. He set them well. He did not praise lightly, either; even as he was confident of himself he was a little suspicious of others, at least until one had proven himself. He and I put up at route at Nelson, in the early 80's, which I named after a Blondie song, "Die Young, Stay Pretty". (Howard often told me I was 'pretty', which I don't think he thought was a good thing.) It was 'difficult to protect', as we used to say, or "dicey", as Howard would say. And, it was pretty hard. It has disappeared in all but oral history; I still hear about it from time to time from Kris Kline, or Ed Begoon, as though recalling a half-heard story. As I belayed Howard up on second, not failing to notice that all the protection was hanging on the rope at his harness, I asked him what he thought about the gear. "What gear", he said, "that was one of the nicest leads I've seen for a long time." From Howard, I was shocked. I don't think I have ever received a higher compliment. On the way home that night he bought an enormous bad of chocolate chip cookies at the 7/11 in Petersburg. I had one or two. He was deep into the stash when suddenly he threw the bag at me and said, "Eat some of these things, Goddammit, before I eat the whole bag." So, last weekend, I wanted to do a Howard route, but I wasn't really sure which one I wanted to do, but not "Lichen", or anything on the east face, the classics. By late in the day, we had done "Gumbie Patrol", a Harrison Schull route, and "Spinnaker", another Harrison route, and we were rapping down the lower east face, next to all the 'new' bolt lines, when I realized we were rapping right over "H and H", the 'dicey', bold 5.9 Herb Laeger/ Howard Doyle route from the mid-70's, maybe done just before Herb left for CA. I had only done it once before, with Mike Goff, fairly recently and I thought 'perfect'. So, we did "H and H" at the close of day, in the purple winter light of Seneca, the shadows falling rapidly and a chill coming on. I was thinking only of Howard and the life he led and of the far too brief life he and I shared and which none of us ever thinks will end. Every hold was a whisper of touch and chalk dust and Howard. He was a powerful creature among us all in this rich life we share as climbers and I, too, am brutally sad by this way too early death. However, it is a deep, if melancholy, pleasure to follow in these footsteps of memory, left in honor of Howard and it's fantastic to hear from so many whose voices I know so well, but have not seen for way too long. I hope to see everyone soon. Love, Hunt Prothro
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Berc
climber
SLC, UT
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Dec 20, 2006 - 12:45pm PT
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Some of you have seen this email before. I came across this string after Ben sent me an email. I hope he doesn't mind the re-telling of the story.
"It's great hearing all these stories. It brings back so many memories. One thing that I'm eternally grateful for and somewhat amazed by is how guys like Howie and Mel could put up with a bunch of snot nosed brats that many of us were. I think Greg Hand coined the term "snot nosed brat" after one particularly insufferable Carderock session with me.
Here you have grown up mortgage laden men with kids and wives spending weekends on a rope with kids who thought they knew everything but really didn't have a clue. Says something about the sport and the people it attracts.
My favorite Howie story was the one about him, Lotus and Ben Mealy. Ben got a ride up to the Gunks with them one summer weekend and left his spare EBs in the car that Saturday. Lotus and Howie came back to the car after a good hot day of climbing, cracked the door and fell back at the onslaught that assaulted their olfactory nerves. After choking down their gorge they managed to open all the doors of Howie's brown station
wagon and observe the fall out. People passing by the car would recoil at the oder and ask what died.
After a brief consul on who would do the looking (Howie lost) Howie found the source of the stench to be Ben's shoes. They were summarily flung into the bushes until the offending owner turned up. Ben, as was Ben's wont, was bemused by what the fuss was all about. No amount of debate would allow the shoes back into the wagon and they were tied underneath the hood for the ride into town for dinner. There they remained for the remainder of the trip.
Howie and Lotus' plans for that evening were somewhat disrupted by the lingering stench and I think they slept outside that night. As I recall Ben and his shoes had to find a ride back to DC. Howie said the stench never really left and when the breeze was right he would catch a whiff flashing him back to that day in the Gunks.
I also remember the day when Howie went to lead Buddy's route on the lower west face and found the bolt missing. Assuming me to be the chopping culprit he located my whereabouts and proceeded to let me know what he thought. Luckily I was a pitch up on some east side route and out of reach or I'm sure I would have been toast.
The past couple of years I saw Howie on and off at the local gym and while skiing. True to form he always had an encouraging word and tips to help me ski better.
Due to circumstances we never spent the amount of time we would have liked with each other. He went out strong as a bull. When I last saw him his bench was climbing and he was repping DLs that I could only dream of attempting. He was always up on the latest routine from the latest research and always wanted to hear your thoughts.
The gym we went to, Thong Tech, as Clune referred to it, was not a hot bed of hard core lifting but had the right equipment with some good lifters. Most of the people there were not "serious". When Howard and June were there it felt more like home; people who understood the value of chalk in a gym. Howie loved rubbing his nose with a chalked hand to give the other clientele something to talk about."
John
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MelB
Social climber
Silver Spring, MD
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Dec 20, 2006 - 05:17pm PT
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Here's yet another:
Howie and I were doing Climbin' Punishment on a dreary, overcast day in October. As we got to the base of the third pitch, it started to rain. According to the guidebook, "Many parties avoid the last pitch, which is hard to protect." Being my lead, I naturally suggested we avoid the last pitch, given it was not only raining but cold as well, and as the guidebook also says, "The first two pitches make an excellent 5.8 route." Not Howie. Feeling like a wuss, I belayed in awe (as well as fear of catching a 200+ pounder falling a couple of body lengths) as he gracefully led the dripping wet pitch, barely pausing for protection and without a single whimper.
Other great memories of Howie:
Surviving trips to Seneca with Howie at the wheel, whether in a Porsche or a pickup. I don't know which vehicle scared me most. He was reputed to have the record time to Seneca from DC, something around 2 hours. Thank God I wasn't on that trip.
Planning get-rich schemes over a bottle (or two) of Lambrusco.
Climbing all day at Red Rocks, then dropping Howie at the chiropractor to have his neck stretched, while we got drunk in the bar next door.
It's great to see so many tributes to Howie. What a testament. Maybe he can see them too, who the hell knows. Ray, what about that reunion?
Mel
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woj
climber
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Dec 23, 2006 - 08:39am PT
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I knew howard from seneca rocks from the 70s80s. he live down in D.C at that time drove a porche up from DC on weekends . person who road with him said it was a memorable experience . he is a list of first ascent from the seneca guide ambush 5.10(1979)slipstream 5.9worthy committment 5.9 (1977)silent suffering 5.9 (1980)bitterend 5.9 (1980). this just a partial list ther are at lest 12 more first in the guide. howard and I ski in jackson hole in the late 80s he was also a world class skier. it is with profouend saddens that I writes this james wojciechowski (woj)
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niece
climber
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Dec 28, 2006 - 12:14am PT
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Hello to all,
A few weeks have passed since my uncle's death and I still feel like it is not possible for him to be gone. It came as quite a shock to all of us. We never expected my uncle, who was in such great shape, to die so suddenly. Although I miss him dearly it has been very nice to read all of the wonderful stories and sentiments you have all shared. My family and I truly appreciate your kind words. It is nice to know that Uncle Howie made such an impact on so many people. I remember hearing some of the stories that have been shared, but most of them were new to me. Thanks again for sharing.
Stacey
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Dec 28, 2006 - 01:44am PT
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"...Surviving trips to Seneca with Howie at the wheel, whether in a Porsche or a pickup. I don't know which vehicle scared me most. He was reputed to have the record time to Seneca from DC, something around 2 hours. Thank God I wasn't on that trip.
.."
This reminds me of a Howie Doyle story related to me by Frank Minunni, who made that DC to Seneca trip with him in his Porsche. When the two of them pulled into a service station to gas up, the attendant tried as hard as he could to scrub the bugs off Howie's windshield--to no avail. Finally, the attendant turns to Howie and says "them's 90 mile an hour bugs, ain't they?"
Good stuff.
Curt
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Maeve's Dad
Trad climber
Herndon, VA
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1-1-07
Re: Howard Doyle
I still can't believe Howard is gone. It is with great sadness and tremendous respect that I write this, and it is going to take a long, long time to adjust to the fact. There are so many things we all take for granted - too often our great friends included. I guess I just thought Howard would always be around. And even though Howard hasn't been around our area much lately (having moved out West some time ago), he would return once in a while to his "Mother Crag." I always thought I would still see him at Seneca, if even only occasionally - even once each few years or so. And talk with him briefly, remember the glory and excitement of the "good old days," ask his advice on things, and just bask in his grand but comforting presence. How could we not expect to see him again? Howard was truly the "Grand Master" of our beloved crag.
There are several things I remember in particular about Howard. I didn't begin climbing at Seneca until 1976, part way through college. And as a pure beginner, I was truly challenged leading things like "Candy Corner," "Banana," and the "Gendarme." I clearly remember dreaming and wishing " . . . if I could just lead a 5.7 some day . . ." I would be satisfied with my climbing achievements for the rest of my entire life (well, we all know what happens with the numbers game . . .). But anyway, not many trips to Seneca later, I saw Howard for the first time. After those first few trips to Seneca, I had finally gotten up the gumption to venture around to the East Face, and I saw Howard on one of the East Face classics. I can't remember whether it was "High Test" or "Nip and Tuck," but I was in complete AWE! Here was this VERY big, and obviously VERY strong expert climbing with total control at a level I couldn't even comprehend! I watched. I just watched with my jaw hanging open - completely entranced. Just what was this guy holding on to? How could he hang on for SOOOO long? How is it that he wasn't shaking? Or afraid? On something so insanely difficult!?!?!?!? Instead of saying "Watch me!" every other move (like I did . . .), Howard was joking around with his partner at the same time! INCREADIBLE!!! Well, to say the least, that sure gave me some perspective! This experience instantly put me in my rightful place, but more importantly GREATLY inspired me. WOW! I immediately wanted to be just like Howard. My dream of leading just one 5.7 in my life was suddenly replaced with great trepidation and a VERY large lump in my throat by a MUCH more lofty goal - only I truly had NO idea whatsoever just how lofty this goal really was. Not too long after that experience however, I was to begin to find out just how "pie in the sky" my new goal truly was. And not only by the numbers and the degree of physical strength and finesse requried, but also by the degree of boldness, commitment and calm that had to be developed - not to mention the persona. Well, I gave up on the persona quickly - how could anyone else be just like Howard? I would have to settle for just being as good a climber. However, to this day I am still trying to approach being the climber Howard was. I won't yet admit to myself that I will never achieve it. It helps keep me going.
I also remember climbing one day several years later (early 80's by that time) with Howard, Cal, and Don Wood at Nelson Rocks. I had come to know Cal a bit better than I knew Howard at that time, so I partnered with Cal, and Howard teamed up with Don. There was the usual discussion that morning about where we would go, and what routes we might try - without a great degree of excitement. So when the idea of Nelson Rocks came up, I immediately piped in (being the most novice of the group, I had kept my mouth pretty well shut up to then). I had climbed the mandatory few routes there by that stage ("Crescendo," and "Stone Gallows," etc.), but didn't know the crag very well, and was excited at the prospect of going back with someone who really knew the area intimately. So off to Nelson Rocks we went. Maybe it was just the kind of day it was, but the lack of excitement once there was much as it was before the subject of Nelsons arose in the first place. Suddenly I found myself in the driver's seat. I mean, since nobody seemed excited about climbing anything in particular (I supposed that the others had already climbed nearly everything at Nelsons that was to be climbed), I was asked what I thought. Now wait a minute! Even though I had lent support to this Nelson-Rocks-idea, I thought I was just going along for the ride here! My (secret) plan was that I was just going to follow one of you really good climbers on something hard, learn a little more about the crag, and have some fun! Now you're asking me what I think? I can't even begin to explain how terrified I was about performing well in the presence of Howard, Cal and Don - all MUCH better climbers than myself. Well, that morning Howard had been talking about wanting to do another good new route somewhere, and by this point we had walked up beyond "Crescendo," but not quite all the way up to "Stone Gallows." Along the way I had briefly spied what looked like a nice hand and finger crack. This crack is left of the broken pillar and of what is now known as "House of Cards" and right of the start of "Iroquois League." Thinking fast, I asked Howard if this crack had been climbed. We walked back down to take a look at it. Howard didn't remember climbing it before, and didn't know of anyone else who had climbed it either. I suggested he might give it a go. Phew! Thankfully, this option seemed to spark some interest, and before I knew it, Don was on the sharp-end firing up the crack, and to my equal delight, Cal was racking up for another option of discontinuous thin cracks and vague corners just to the right. Some of you have probably heard my story of Cal's "take no prisoners" mastery of his way up the series of difficult face moves and thin cracks, and burly bulge above with minimal protection (my heart in my throat the whole time)! This was indeed the opening of a door to a new world I knew little about - HOLY SMOKES! These guys were the REAL DEAL!!! Cal and I decided to call this new route "Just Another Pretty Face," purposely understating its seriousness. Cal thought it was about 5.10. Naturally, most people now can't believe it was lead without bolts, and now that it DOES have bolts (having later been innocently retro-bolted by another party unaware of the route's existence), believe it is every bit of 5.11a. Thankfully, to my TREMENDOUS relief, I actually followed it! I must have been so terrified of failure in the True Masters' eyes that Divine Intervention occurred! Don arrived at the belay first (a good ledge with a VERY small pine tree - well, shrub, really [which was of course to become the rap anchor]). Cal arrived next. Don was a little rattled after having lead the crack, saying that the crack was pretty hard too. Especially the part where there was not the greatest protection at and above the crux . . . Howard appeared at the belay with a BIG smile on his face. He was VERY pleased! (I hadn't gone back to these routes until about two years ago to repeat them, and believe that they are indeed both about 5.11a). When Howard smiled the contented smile he smiled, everything in the world was good. The planets and stars were all in alignment, and everyone was at ease and free to rejoice and relax. It just doesn't get any better than that!
Another thing I remember was similar to the experience Tony had. I can't remember who my partner was on the particular occasion, but I had lead "La Bella Vista" that day for the first time. We ended up at the Gendarme that evening, and the usual gang was there, drinking beer and shooting the bull. I respectfully greeted Howard and asked if he had had a good day out, etc. He asked me what I had climbed that day, and was very interested in what I thought about "La Bella Vista." Howard seemed impressed, and said it hadn't seen too many ascents. Naturally, I praised the route (it IS a beaut!) and was filled with pride for having gained the respect of my greatest hero.
There are many other occasions where I had seen Howard at Seneca, Nelson Rocks, or Champe Rocks. Every time I saw Howard he was very respectful and very kind to me. This had a tremendous impact on me, as I had been so used to being merely ignored or outright disrespected by other athletes while I was engaged in conventional sports at school (despite a modicum of prowess as a pole-vaulter). Howard was a shining light for me. Howard was truly a hero to me. Howard was a model climber and a model human being, and I will miss him terribly.
So much has already been said, and said in so many ways - with the light-hearted joy of camaraderie and remembrance, and with great love, respect and eloquence. And as much as it has already been said, Howard was indeed large than life. I expect Howard must have had an impact on everyone he ever met. I'm not sure who will suffer the most - those who knew him well enough to call him "Howie" and who must have spent a great deal more time with him than I did, and have many more memories of him than I have. Or those who simply WISH they had spent more time with him, as I wish I had.
Our friend Ben Mealy put it succinctly - "Our heroes are never supposed to die." Howard's passing leaves all of us with a great emptiness in our hearts, but with great joy for having had the priviledge to know and share even a few experiences with such a great human being.
Sandy Fleming
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Louis
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Lovely Sandy. I read your post enjoying every word. And it's all the better having come from you.
Crimpie aka Callie
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aligurl091
climber
Washington, D.C.
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2007-01-02 Howie was my godfather..great friends with my parents William and Nicola Renison here in Washington, D.C., especially my dad as they climbed around the Potomac River area and beyond when I was younger...i hadn't seen or heard from him in years since he had moved out west, only because of the restless spirit of his that moved him from place to place every so often. By a cruel twist of fate, my mother looked him up the day after I noted how much I'd like to connect with him again, only to find his death notice. Ever-lingering memories such as when he took me to school as a toddler with my dad or giving me a whole $50 bill (never laid eyes on one at the tender age of 6) at my christening help to mitigate irony's painful grip. Would love to touch base with his family to let them know he's still a godfather in my heart, regardless of time. Hope the purportedly planned Washington memorial is either a) still in the works and b) hasn't happened yet. Godspeed. Alexandra Renison
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LastPioneerWoman
Trad climber
WY
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Jan 14, 2007 - 01:25pm PT
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I just found out about Howie’s death; what a shock. He never seemed old to me. Thanks to everyone for the stories -- brings back good memories and smiles. Maybe I can tell of yet another great side of Howie’s personality, I hope I’m not too late. Whenever he came to the Black Hills Needles, we would meet for a climb or two and lots of visiting. We were in some ways the best of friends, talking of various life challenges and the most personal of things. Me being female and Howard a very manly man this may seem odd, but we really were true pals. I always appreciated his open-mindedness and insights. And as you all have explained, his humor and story-telling were incredible; there were times I wanted to roll on the ground.
Hollis
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climberflyfisher
Mountain climber
springdale, pa
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Jan 19, 2007 - 06:00pm PT
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Howard was a great guy who gave me the best piece of mountaineering advice I ever received. “Watch yourself on fixed lines”. On a trip to Ama Dablam raping down a fixed line from Camp 1 during lousy weather I probably would have raped through a section of blue line that had been significantly cut by falling rock. I don’t know if it would have held or not, maybe for me it would have held but maybe not for others later? Howard came right to mind as I cut the section out and re-did the fixed line before continuing down. I had the opportunity to thank him at Seneca later. He was gracious but I thanked him for my wife, kids and the rest of my family. I was serious.
Our group from the ECP did a bunch of caving in the late 70’s thru early 80’s and School House was still open. We invited Howard to do the Inner Wells passage with its very nervy 5.5 slime climbing on very bad quarter inch bolts up to the Traverse of the Gods finish. He smiled and laughed and told us how crazy we were but we would intern stand in awe watching him putting up 10+’s on a regular basis with run outs not meant for mortal men. We would pass him on our way to do some mid rated route, come down and see Howard and his partner still animatedly discussing the new route in great detail. This usually was the high entertainment point of the weekend. (names will remain anonymous).
Howard moved and I got into raising my sons and work but this week when Rick Fairtrace told me about Howard I felt very sad like a hole had opened up in me. This maybe is my own mortality showing because Howard was too young for this to happen and way to much an icon.
Howard was simply a good dude. I will tell my sons about Howard and how there are few people you meet in this life who command such respect. I will tell them how I would see him along the road at the Gunks and we would stop and talk casually and how I would notice the faces of climbers passing us by staring at Howard; faces of awe and respect. He will always be the Hard Man and I will be proud let others know of him as long as I can tell stories like how we met but that is for another time.
Bruce Cox
Springdale, Pa
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