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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Sorry to hear this - I'm looking forward to giving this unique route a try sometime this year. Perhaps steel permadraws would work? A rope linking them would need to be regularly replaced, but then climbers would usually have one of their own anyway, to get to that point. Anyway, I'd chip in for permadraws, or whatever anti-theft solution is decided on.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2018 - 08:08pm PT
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I'll figure out something a bit more tamper proof.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Maybe put up a plaque or two commemorating Coz in the fixed gear area so people realize this route is a tribute and they shouldn't mess with things.
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Looks great Perry. I would chip in too to replace some of the stolen gear.
TM
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2018 - 02:55pm PT
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A little math for consideration.
36 Stainless hangers @ $4.00 each $144
36 Locking carabiners @ 17.50 each $630
150 meters 7/16 static @ $3.50 meter $525
Approximate replacement cost $ 1299
That would go a long ways towards a pretty decent campfire guitar.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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the Via feratta in telluride had steel cable on it as well as rungs.
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RURP_Belay
Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
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So sorry to hear about the theft, Perry.
It seems that wire rope through glue-in eyebolts then secured on the ends with swages or wire rope clip/thimble combination would take a good stride towards deterring theft. The wire rope would probably last longer than the static rope, as well.
Glue-in bolts, as mentioned, are bomber & not worth the effort to remove. If someone cuts those, it's personal.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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I am amazed and puzzled to hear about the removal.
But the Lost Coz was a perfect adventure for a new friend, a non-climber.
edit:
I'd be glad to put money up for the loss and possible re-installation.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Cragman sent me some hangers a few years ago and I have some left I would gladly donate.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Coz will get those theifs they will burn!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2018 - 11:42am PT
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Good one Jeff!
Cozzy would be pissed as hell and rant himself right off the Forum again.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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yes, he would! Miss ya Perry!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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I really hope that the community can encourage the person (s) responsible to own up to this. If you've got an issue with the way a route is set up, have a discussion. Most people are reasonable, and you may bring an opinion or idea to the table that the FA hadn't considered.
Vigilante acts like this are cowardly and solve nothing. Many climbers had tried the route and liked it, despite it being unusual by Squamish norms. Why should one person feel they have the right to make the call for everyone that it doesn't belong?
If you know the person who removed the equipment, please encourage them to at the very least return the equipment, and ideally to open up a dialog with Perry if they have concerns about it. (style? safety? ???)
I'd like to share Perry's optimism that it could be an uninformed opportunist, but I can't.
Kris
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Probably a gondola hater too
I'd like to see them steal that hardware!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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I'm not quite sure I follow you Jim. You can walk to the base of The Ultimate Everything across Vulcan's Artery with your dog, but I'm not sure why you'd want to. ;)
Whatever opinions people have regarding motives for creating or disagreeing with a route, is fine and dandy. We're a richer community for having diverse perspectives. Taking it upon one's self to be the route police and erase someone's effort, as well as steal the equipment they have donated to the community at large is selfish and cowardly.
Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but please have the courtesy to bring your's to the table. Many hours and dollars have gone into the creation of each route we share, so show some decency and respect to those who put in the work.
I've yet to do this route (I was with Perry when we discovered the dastardly deed), so my perspective is still incomplete. I'd love to hear what others have thought of the creation. Please share your experiences!
K
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Who's in Vancouver, and free for lunch on Friday somewhere in Kits, with a distinguished visiting Supertovian? Send me PM.
It's no secret that I agree with Kris. First, that matters like this need to be settled within our community, if possible. Second, that if a climber really believes something is a matter of principle that needs to be acted on, then for the same reason she/he should have the courage to tell people what she/he has done, and why. Bearing in mind that those indulging in doing what are likely to be controversial or dumb things should tell people before doing them, and possibly making a mess. Of which there are more than a few at Squamish.
Royal Robbins stood up for his principles - publicly. He made no secret that he was going to 'erase' the bolts etc on the Wall of the Early Morning Light, because what he thought the route was about was against his principles. He was also man enough to admit that maybe it wasn't such a good idea after all. In both cases quite publicly.
I've always tried to be forthright about my views and actions in relation to climbing, not that it necessarily wins friends. If you can't be honest with others about what and how you climb, how can you be honest with yourself? I'm far from the world's ....est climber, but I try hard to be honest with myself and the community. What's the point otherwise?
It's hard to believe in these days of climbers who for the most part are materially wealthy and hardly lack for equipment, that someone would bother stealing a few weathered quickdraws in such a location, just for the sake of having them.
A sign at the start of the traverse on the Lost Coz doesn't seem likely to deter thieves. Luckily, non-climbers seem unlikely to figure out how to get there. (Unlike the "pools" at the top of Shannon Falls, which seem to be luring more and more unwary tourists. Vernal Falls redux?) So I wouldn't be keen on a plaque there - there seem more than enough already on the Chief. Likewise rungs, just because rungs plus a fixed rope might lure people who shouldn't be there.
Anyway, I'm signed up to climb a tree on Diedre or something in the near future, but would be happy to help out Perry with his project. I didn't know Scott Cosgrove, but have always been intrigued by the Vulcan's Artery and the possibility of an airy traverse there. A unique adventure.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2018 - 09:57pm PT
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Before Kakwa had his debilitating tangle with the bruin, I used to take great delight in walking him up the Coz Way to start of the upper buttress.
Kind of blew peoples minds to bump into some old guy walking his dog in the middle of their multi pitch adventure.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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OK, but Kakwa is smarter than some (many?) tourists, and had you to guide him.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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there is a via feratta in telluride with rungs and fixed cable. about 3/4 of a mile into a mile and a half adventure there is a park bench and a memorial plac bolted to the wall. I thought it was pretty cool. apparently the bench is a good place to do shrooms and listen to the concerts down in the vallly.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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I mentioned the plaque because there is one in Ghost River on a run out multi pitch climb that Dave Cheesmond was working on when he went to Mt Logan.
His friends Brian and Choc finished it after it was obvious that Dave wasn't coming back. Dave's widow suggest the route name Creamed Cheese and a memorial plaque was fixed on the 4th pitch.
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