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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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^^^ ya, that's what i meant, my silence on the matter not withstanding
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sometimes, by circumstance.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Right on Warbler. Right on.
The rest is details.
No sh#t, this stuff is dying out of climbing. The soul is drying up and the mountain gods are laughing in distain as they damn well should.
The process needs to keep its end big, not collapse into counting reps, gear and grades.
Right place. Right people. Work ethic and pride in quality style. 10m or 3000m doesnt matter, process matters.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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ECDH and Warbler have it fingered out.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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"No sh#t, this stuff is dying out of climbing. The soul is drying up and the mountain gods are laughing in distain as they damn well should.
The process needs to keep its end big, not collapse into counting reps, gear and grades. "
Been hearing that for years, miles and miles of unclimbed quality rock just here in NM.
Adventure still awaits for those willing to look for it.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Damn straight bob d'a.
The plus side is the same rant, different spin.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jake wander - I've always been partial to this hand crack on a 9 pitch route my partners & I put up in the Wind Rivers nearly 4 decades ago ...
Pipeline - P5
The bad news is, it's about 12 miles in from Dickinson Park (or a day hike down from the Cirque of the Towers, if that's where you happen to be) ... the good news is, you're very like to cop the 3rd ascent, or 2nd free ascent overall.
If Sunshine Crack is on your list, this one is only a little bigger investment getting to ... the FFA party concurs the crux is P1 ... after that comes a series of crack systems going from fingers to hands to layback, finally to the scenic cruise that is P5 (top part shown in the photo).
Why am I promoting this route? Well, mainly because it has languished in obscurity for nearly 38 years ... I could say this was because of the scarcity of forums to document it at the time (basically the AAJ & Climbing). But the truth is, we never tried. Being a group of unknown climbers from New Mexico, we weren't sure the route would be taken seriously. Call this an effort to rectify that oversight ...
S
As compared with some of the other hand cracks mentioned here - Reed's Direct or Moby Dick or Grack Center - it stacks up quite favorably. Furthermore, though P5 is only one out of 9, I can honestly say there is not a bad pitch on the route. Throw in the other lines in the area still awaiting 2nd ascents, not to mention some prospective 1st ascents, think the area rewards the effort getting to ... & I would personally love to see them gain wider attention ...
docsavage,
8 hours ago "Best Multi pitch Hand cracks", Mnt. Prj.
*From Albuquerque, NM**
Joined Dec 21, 2011
s what plants the seed of inspiration ?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Start at the bottom and find a way to the top is my favorite. I have also put up a fair number of really fine climbs TD but they do not for the most part have the same level of satisfaction for me.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Nice Rap Job Miss Ter Eek. Must be the # 1 route in the gorge.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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[photoid=459384]
One of the best "nerves of steel" guys is Barry Chambers. He makes it look soooo....easy just stopping to drill. On Disappearing Dome, Glenn and I couldn't even stand where he stopped to drill without hooks. The dude is amazing! Talk about having some "BIg Nuggies"!
Oh, BTW maybe it's those magic shoes he resoles...except he front points beyond belief on some stiff suckers and makes it look so easy. Barry and his wife Leni rock on Sierra rock!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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If I'm involved in an FA, it's probably because I'm lost, off-route, or too scared to finish the approach to the climb I intended.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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That said, skill, 'know how' and judgment are separate facets.
Tweaked that a bit for you...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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From this weekend...a few 800 foot or so routes with QUALITY pitches. On a face that was virgin a month ago...can't believe it.
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cat t.
climber
california
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Grabbing bushes is fair game, but they may fight back.
On NEW routes, for the most part, I am able to keep my mind clear of expectations and concentrate on problem solving. I quoted this back at V yesterday without realizing he was the one who wrote it. (LOL!) Climbing something unknown strips away a whole stressful category of "expectations."
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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I like that ^^^^^^
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dikhed
climber
State of fugue and disbelief
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Do you even fa...braj?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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By complete accident. Yeah. None of my FA were planned more than 24 hours in advance.
Usually I hiked into an area with a rope & rack, saw a line that piqued my interest and hit it the next day.
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