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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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I too was surprised it wasn't a hip belay.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dynamite tale Hooblie.
It's highly likely you are the only person to climb that route who didn't know what it was!
it took away my feeling of belonging to the group, that in seven years of doing other stuff i had been left behind Most of the rest of us, who HAD been climbing diligently for those seven years, felt left behind, too.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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easy now, y'all are too kind ... and keyed in on ropes.
i guess there's no take backs on supertopo. i must remain calm
in the face of near certainty that the truth will be revealed
about my one arm, and our jolly romp on lembert
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Hooblie - you are such an excellent writer! Thanks for sharing that. While I've never climbed the B-Y, many of your phrases resonate with me. I especially like 'climbing with sense of urgency' (which usually does me in and leads to some tears) and 'composure of a wet hen' (which is generally in conjunction with the wet hen). BRAVO!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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+3, is that how that works?
What I mean is - great write up. . .
see the man, the author in the
"Who the hell are you people?... Supertopoan Pictures..." Thread,
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AE
climber
Boulder, CO
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The Munter still holds a unique middle path in the spectrum of friction imparted by various methods; I recall most slot types descended from Sticht plates are to the mild braking end, requiring competent belay technique to apply adequate force to catch falls, versus all "auto locking" types akin to GriGris, either complicated or by virtue of sinuous rope passages that realign to lock when the rope is tensioned. The Munter's force curve lies in between the two extremes, and except for the damn rope twist and some feeding difficulties, just might represent the happy medium best choice for actually catching random falls beyond the gym or sport crag.
That doubled Munter looks interesting, but can't imagine that not really making easy payout next to impossible; it also likely increases the catch load to the point you may as well use a lockoff-type unit and get easy feeding as well. The best aspect overall for the Munter is it is always available as a backup if you have only a locking biner to work with.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Great Story.......
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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not that this has anything to do with the Bachar-Yerian directly...
climbing with John that last summer at the Great Western Power Co. gym in Oakland before his slide show there, he used a Munter Hitch and was unchallenged by the gym authorities. At that time (and maybe still) you supplied your own device, and JB hadn't brought one, he did have a locking 'binner. I thought it hilarious that his celebrity bubble was strong enough to deflect the usual injunctions defining "safe" behavior.
He also borrowed a rope to lead a route, belayed by me... the loaner of the rope was thrilled to have JB climb on it... and once again, though neither I nor JB had been "cleared" to lead (or lead belay), no one objected (at least not to us). I did use a belay device, however.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Never used the super munter, but it looks way complicated and hard to feed rope and take in slack. Can you 'splain it Lucy?
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sangoma
Trad climber
south africa
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Tryed the SuperMunter the other day , works OK one must keep it dressed as it flips over (two times) when one changes from feeding out rope to pulling in rope. Otherwise the loops get ontop of each other and tend to jam up a bit.
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Apr 12, 2016 - 02:48am PT
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Great stories all. Though the BY secret ascent of 85 is more in line with the general direction of this topic, am I the only one really interested in the Tarbuster-Walleye dialogue regarding catering. After blowing 60 grand at the Ahwahnee, what did they do to top that?
In other news I really like the munter's simplicity but hate the twistage, a point that was driven home by the end of a 150 foot free-hanging rap off half ropes using munter hitches (partner and I forgot belay devices). After the nausea subsided, the tangled birdsnest of ropes was a sight to behold.
Lasti
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 12, 2016 - 09:45am PT
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Ha ha.
Okay, Lasti, more mundane thread drift, loosely associated with the SuperMunter which our Italian clients used with polished aplomb on The Nose.
The patron of our ascent, Inge Vogle, was an heiress connected to the Werner Von Braun Huntsville Alabama WWII rocket program. She hailed from Switzerland at the time of our climb, in 1987. She really, really wanted to meet us on the summit of El Capitan in a helicopter and couldn't understand why the Park service wouldn't allow it!
So, instead of using the East Ledges, we walked out to Tamarack to a meet Inge at her rented motorhome stocked with a feast including limitless bottles of Italian Barolo and Far Niente Chardonnay. This was the first time YMS conducted a guided ascent of El Capitan. We did it in two parties of two. The other guide was Doug Nidever. Our patron had rooms kept for Doug and me in the Ahwahnee the entire time we were on the wall, just in case we came down early.
She also rented the Queen's Suite on the top floor of the Ahwahnee, so we could dine there in private. (I think that is all of the seventh floor). She didn't like the dress code requirements for eating down in the public dining room so eventually just rented out the entire Basket Room for our private lunches and dinners, which grew to include many Yosemite locals.
Our wall food was mostly cooked by the Ahwahnee and we filled zip lock bags from seven silver trays of food prepared by the hotel, all laid out for us on a long table up on the seventh floor. It was May, and the weather was cool and we climbed through storms and even some snow, which the Italians liked!
I've never done a TR on this because I only have half of the pictures.
Maybe I could spin this into something worthy of an article for Alpinist, if I get more pictures.
I recently Googled my client, Giuliano Trucco, and see that he appears happy and healthy and still skiing (and probably climbing) in Cervinia.
Doug's client,Walter Cazzanelli, is also present in the link below.
I have a friend who speaks fluent Italian and could probably reconnect me with those guys. Better do it while we are all still alive!
Le Guide Alpine del Cervino:
http://www.guidedelcervino.com/content.asp?ID=2
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Apr 12, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
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Lasti, just thinking about you the other day. Hope all is well. I have you to thank for spending New Year's Eve on the French Riviera. Cheers, Lynne
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