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Steven Amter
climber
Washington, DC
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Side note to Ghost:
I read (in your bear attack post) that you used to be a Park Ranger for Auyuittuq National Park. Cool! By any chance did you know the (first?) head ranger, Bob Redhead?
I remember him fondly. Among other reasons, when returned to Pang at the end of our second expedition (1979), he put us up in his house for a few days, and fed us gloriously. We had some very interesting conversations. Besides being great at his job, he was a really nice guy with a nice family.
I just found out he passed away in 2012, at age 70. For those who are interested, here's a link to his obituary. It sounds like he had a wonderful life.
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/facts-and-arguments/robert-bob-redhead/article4092473/
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Ian Parsons
climber
UK, England
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Hi Steve!
Yes - it was a very long time ago. I was obviously wrong about the canoe; I'd got the idea that you had walked. But sitting around waiting must have been a trial, and full marks for sticking with it and getting something done in the end. To be honest Jim and I were somewhat taken aback to see the fjord still full of ice as we flew in on the afternoon of 7th July; we assumed it would have been long gone by then and that we'd simply go in by boat or canoe. It seems that 1978 was a bit of an anomaly, and it was pure luck that we were just in time to get a skidoo.
Two other teams came out at about the same time as us. Ken Nichols and Les Ellison were probably a couple of days ahead of us; you may have met them, although it sounds from Ken's account in the 1979 AAJ as if they got back to the fjord head before the sea became passable by boat so had to walk out. As I recall they'd run out of food and were heading for home with all speed! Jim and I had a more leisurely trek back to the fjord head in the occasional company of three guys from Colorado: Denny Hogan - route on Huntingdon, I think; Mike - with whom I later drove from Eldorado Springs to Yosemite and did Washington Column South Face, but whose second name I've unforgivably forgotten; and a third guy whose name, I think, was Pete. With our varied staggering rates we didn't necessarily move as a single group, so it's a guess which particular three you actually met. There was also a large team from Aberdeen in Scotland based at Summit Lake for the whole time that we were there; I think they left at the end of July so you may well have seen them as well. In fact Jim and I only had a total of three weeks out from Pang; a week on the approach and return and two weeks at Summit Lake - hence my suggestion that a delay of the sort that you suffered would have completely wrecked our trip.
Good to hear from you, and I think there are a bunch of people eager for any recollections that you can pass on.
Ian
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I read (in your bear attack post) that you used to be a Park Ranger for Auyuittuq National Park. Cool! By any chance did you know the (first?) head ranger, Bob Redhead?
Ah, the wind blows out of the past...
I was never on the Auyittuq Park staff, but I did know Bob Redhead, and he did hire me to do some exploration there and write a sort-of guide to skiing in the park.
And I echo all your comments about what a great guy he was. We got to know him fairly well, and he and Robin would visit us when they were in Vancouver.
Sad to hear he's gone.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, guys...wow, i missed this one too...
most likely, i skpped over, fast, due to the 'beta' knowing that i would not
have anything to post...
but--i went looking for stuff on mt asgard, here,
after seeing a film clipp on it...
say, ed!!! wow, i sure love and appreciate all this info here, on the baffin area...
thank you for thinking about everyone...
here is what i saw, due to a friend sharing stuff from england...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Gumbyclimber: Some of the best unclimbed rock for the motivated is up behind Thor.
The only time I went behind Thor was in a whiteout, but I did get some good pictures on another trip from up high and across the valley, and it should give you an idea of what gumbyclimber is talking about.
This is Mt. Bredablik, which is just North of Thor. (The first big shadow up on the glacier to the right is Thor) I think the rock he's talking about is the towers behind and just to the left of Bredablik.
Here's a closer view. Bredablik in the foreground, and I think the towers to the left of it are what gumbyclimber was talking about -- Vitaly, book your flights now!!!
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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May 19, 2016 - 10:45pm PT
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^ Wow! Really well done video from Cheyne Lempe.
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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Aug 10, 2017 - 12:38pm PT
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Anyone have any info on the Scott route on Asgard? Sounds dreamy
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Ian Parsons
climber
UK, England
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Aug 12, 2017 - 05:10pm PT
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Anyone have any info on the Scott route on Asgard?
If you're planning a visit it's worth noting - if you haven't already - that the entire lower section of the route is several hundred feet to the left of where it is shown on the photo-topo in the 2008 guidebook; I'm guessing that the confusion arose as a result of identifying its position relative to the so-called "Death Gully", when in fact there are two separate features on that side of the mountain which bear this designation.
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Rickster
Trad climber
Pine Bush,NY
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Aug 16, 2017 - 04:47pm PT
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Ian Parsons et al, Being on Baffin in '78 with Steve Amter and Ron Sacks, we did in fact find Ken Nichols.... walking out solo from Overlord. His partner arrived in Pang, also solo a few days ahead of him and flew out. The fiord had pretty much cleared by then, so we hopped a boat with one of the Inuit rangers in search of a lone climber hiking out. Some time later we caught sight of Ken laboring under a huge pack south bound for Pang. Mission complete, after a cozy night at Peyton's Place, he flew out the next morning.
Our 28 days on Baffin were spent mostly waiting in Pang for the fiord to completely clear of pack ice. It had started to break up upon our our arrival, but too broken up to snowmobile north to Overlord, but not enough to boat all the way in. Finally caught a break, caught another boat, and spent the remaining time hiking in, sitting out some more weather in the emergency hut across the river from Thor. After staring up at it for a few days, we went for the NW Buttress rising up left of the main face. Three days up, down and done, waited another bout of bad weather and hiked out.
We four Baffin Boys, just had a 39 year reunion and got spanked on Mt. Shasta a few weeks ago.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Jul 24, 2018 - 12:31am PT
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bump...
S....
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Aug 15, 2018 - 05:28pm PT
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I've seen Hennek's slides of Baffin, and they are GREAT! When I spoke with him recently, he was working on his slides from China...
He's had SO MANY great adventures!! I keep hoping he'll post some of them here!
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